Bicycle Resurrection
#1
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Bicycle Resurrection
The bike: 1995 Gary Fisher Paragon
The questions:
1. What size are the balls in the hubs/crank case and what is a good (preferably online) source for those?
2. What kind of maintenance does the fork require?
3. Need recommendations on type of grease for the shifters
4. Anything that I could easily overlook?
Background:
I just bought the bike from someone who rode it for one season and then got kids...Everything works perfectly, but since the bike has been sitting in a garage since 1996 I suspect that the original grease no longer provides proper lubrication. There is part in me itching to ride it, but then there's this other part that tells me that I should do so once the bike has been cleaned and lubricated.
I am not familiar with mountain bikes, but have performed basic maintenance on my road bikes. I plan on rebuilding it at the end of March and am currently in the process of gathering tools and supplies. Any advice on how to proceed with this task is more than welcome.
Thanks in advance to all of you who decided to answer my questions/offer a good tip.
Best
The questions:
1. What size are the balls in the hubs/crank case and what is a good (preferably online) source for those?
2. What kind of maintenance does the fork require?
3. Need recommendations on type of grease for the shifters
4. Anything that I could easily overlook?
Background:
I just bought the bike from someone who rode it for one season and then got kids...Everything works perfectly, but since the bike has been sitting in a garage since 1996 I suspect that the original grease no longer provides proper lubrication. There is part in me itching to ride it, but then there's this other part that tells me that I should do so once the bike has been cleaned and lubricated.
I am not familiar with mountain bikes, but have performed basic maintenance on my road bikes. I plan on rebuilding it at the end of March and am currently in the process of gathering tools and supplies. Any advice on how to proceed with this task is more than welcome.
Thanks in advance to all of you who decided to answer my questions/offer a good tip.
Best
Last edited by Alienspecimen; 01-25-22 at 01:21 PM. Reason: I would like to include a picture
#2
Really Old Senior Member
The "crankcase" is referred to as a Bottom Bracket or BB.
Rear hub typically nine 1/4" balls/side.
BB eleven ""
Front hub typically ten 3/16" balls/side.
Flush the shifters with WD-40/Tri Flow or similar.
Any automotive wheel bearing grease is totally adequate.
Rear hub typically nine 1/4" balls/side.
BB eleven ""
Front hub typically ten 3/16" balls/side.
Flush the shifters with WD-40/Tri Flow or similar.
Any automotive wheel bearing grease is totally adequate.
#3
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Depends on the fork. At the very least, wiping down the stanchions and inspecting the seals. Is it air? Coil? Elastomer?
I don't typically grease the shifters, or do anything to them, really. If they're stiff, flush with PB Blaster.
Check the condition of the cables and housings -- probably replace them all -- and check the brake pads and tire sidewalls for dry rot. Headset bearings might need repacking. Pull the seatpost and inspect/grease.
I'd take it for a spin just to see how it feels, sounds, and rides. That might steer you towards what needs the most attention.
#4
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Before you ride, check the brakes! Old rubber brake pads may have hardened, providing less friction. That bike probably has cantilever brakes, and they're often way out of adjustment, and they're really finnicky to get right. And it's one of the important tasks. See Sheldon Brown's website on cantilever geometry and adjustment.
#5
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According to the Fisher catalog on Vintage Trek, the original fork was a Rockshox Quadra 21. While not considered a high end suspension fork, it is really easy to rebuild. If the elastomers are good, you can just re-use them. there may be upgrades, but finding them these days might be tough.
Here is everything you need to know about rebuilding them...
John
Here is everything you need to know about rebuilding them...
John
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If you don't want to buy in bulk your LBS will sell bearing balls. Chrome steel grade 25 are more than adequate.
Only 1 season use and stored indoors I'd probably clean and reuse the existing balls. I'd also service the headset bearings.
https://www.bocabearings.com/product...ME+STEEL+52100
Only 1 season use and stored indoors I'd probably clean and reuse the existing balls. I'd also service the headset bearings.
https://www.bocabearings.com/product...ME+STEEL+52100
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#7
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+1 Bearing balls can last for many many thousands of miles with decent lubrication. These are probably nearly new and should only require a good cleaning and regreasing. Count the balls carefully when you disassemble the hubs, bottom bracket and headset so you don't lose one or replace the wrong number/size. Any or all of these bearings may have the balls contained in a retainer. Be very careful to replace the retainer facing the correct way during reassembly.
#8
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I’d buy a sealed cartridge bottom bracket and not mess with loose balls.
Open up the hubs, clean, re-grease, adjust.
Clean, re-grease, adjust headset; probably caged ball bearings.
Get KoolStop mtb cantilever brake pads.
If shifters stick, flush with WD-40, lube with TriFlow.
Replace cables, housings may or may not be okay.
John
Open up the hubs, clean, re-grease, adjust.
Clean, re-grease, adjust headset; probably caged ball bearings.
Get KoolStop mtb cantilever brake pads.
If shifters stick, flush with WD-40, lube with TriFlow.
Replace cables, housings may or may not be okay.
John
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And deprive them of the experience of listening to bearings bounce off the garage floor and roll under every immovable object, never to be found again?
#11
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That is exactly why it's nice to have a bunch of extra ball bearings sitting around. I buy mine from the local Ace Hardware, where they are cheap, and you can just reach into the little sliding box, and buy just what you need.