Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Bicycle Resurrection

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Bicycle Resurrection

Old 01-25-22, 01:13 PM
  #1  
Alienspecimen
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bicycle Resurrection

The bike: 1995 Gary Fisher Paragon



The questions:

1. What size are the balls in the hubs/crank case and what is a good (preferably online) source for those?

2. What kind of maintenance does the fork require?

3. Need recommendations on type of grease for the shifters

4. Anything that I could easily overlook?



Background:

I just bought the bike from someone who rode it for one season and then got kids...Everything works perfectly, but since the bike has been sitting in a garage since 1996 I suspect that the original grease no longer provides proper lubrication. There is part in me itching to ride it, but then there's this other part that tells me that I should do so once the bike has been cleaned and lubricated.

I am not familiar with mountain bikes, but have performed basic maintenance on my road bikes. I plan on rebuilding it at the end of March and am currently in the process of gathering tools and supplies. Any advice on how to proceed with this task is more than welcome.

Thanks in advance to all of you who decided to answer my questions/offer a good tip.



Best

Last edited by Alienspecimen; 01-25-22 at 01:21 PM. Reason: I would like to include a picture
Alienspecimen is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 02:22 PM
  #2  
Bill Kapaun
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,857

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1787 Post(s)
Liked 1,259 Times in 868 Posts
The "crankcase" is referred to as a Bottom Bracket or BB.
Rear hub typically nine 1/4" balls/side.
BB eleven ""
Front hub typically ten 3/16" balls/side.

Flush the shifters with WD-40/Tri Flow or similar.

Any automotive wheel bearing grease is totally adequate.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 02:25 PM
  #3  
Rolla
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times in 1,439 Posts
Originally Posted by Alienspecimen
1. What size are the balls in the hubs/crank case and what is a good (preferably online) source for those?
You'd probably want to take a look just to be sure what kind of bearings are in either -- loose ball? Sealed? Doing so will tell you the size.

Originally Posted by Alienspecimen
2. What kind of maintenance does the fork require?
Depends on the fork. At the very least, wiping down the stanchions and inspecting the seals. Is it air? Coil? Elastomer?

Originally Posted by Alienspecimen
3. Need recommendations on type of grease for the shifters
I don't typically grease the shifters, or do anything to them, really. If they're stiff, flush with PB Blaster.

Originally Posted by Alienspecimen
4. Anything that I could easily overlook?
Check the condition of the cables and housings -- probably replace them all -- and check the brake pads and tire sidewalls for dry rot. Headset bearings might need repacking. Pull the seatpost and inspect/grease.


Originally Posted by Alienspecimen
There is part in me itching to ride it, but then there's this other part that tells me that I should do so once the bike has been cleaned and lubricated.
I'd take it for a spin just to see how it feels, sounds, and rides. That might steer you towards what needs the most attention.
Rolla is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 04:11 PM
  #4  
andrewclaus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,835

Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Liked 738 Times in 429 Posts
Before you ride, check the brakes! Old rubber brake pads may have hardened, providing less friction. That bike probably has cantilever brakes, and they're often way out of adjustment, and they're really finnicky to get right. And it's one of the important tasks. See Sheldon Brown's website on cantilever geometry and adjustment.
andrewclaus is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 04:36 PM
  #5  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,801

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
According to the Fisher catalog on Vintage Trek, the original fork was a Rockshox Quadra 21. While not considered a high end suspension fork, it is really easy to rebuild. If the elastomers are good, you can just re-use them. there may be upgrades, but finding them these days might be tough.

Here is everything you need to know about rebuilding them...


John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 06:05 PM
  #6  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,499

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times in 2,049 Posts
If you don't want to buy in bulk your LBS will sell bearing balls. Chrome steel grade 25 are more than adequate.
Only 1 season use and stored indoors I'd probably clean and reuse the existing balls. I'd also service the headset bearings.

https://www.bocabearings.com/product...ME+STEEL+52100
dedhed is online now  
Likes For dedhed:
Old 01-25-22, 06:45 PM
  #7  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times in 741 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed
IOnly 1 season use and stored indoors I'd probably clean and reuse the existing balls. I'd also service the headset bearings.
+1 Bearing balls can last for many many thousands of miles with decent lubrication. These are probably nearly new and should only require a good cleaning and regreasing. Count the balls carefully when you disassemble the hubs, bottom bracket and headset so you don't lose one or replace the wrong number/size. Any or all of these bearings may have the balls contained in a retainer. Be very careful to replace the retainer facing the correct way during reassembly.
HillRider is offline  
Old 01-25-22, 07:00 PM
  #8  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,801

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
I’d buy a sealed cartridge bottom bracket and not mess with loose balls.

Open up the hubs, clean, re-grease, adjust.

Clean, re-grease, adjust headset; probably caged ball bearings.

Get KoolStop mtb cantilever brake pads.

If shifters stick, flush with WD-40, lube with TriFlow.

Replace cables, housings may or may not be okay.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 01-26-22, 09:19 AM
  #9  
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
Be very careful to replace the retainer facing the correct way during reassembly.
Take plenty of photos during disassembly, and preferably disassemble over a tarp or similar so that any escaping bearing balls can be corralled.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 01-26-22, 11:09 AM
  #10  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,499

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times in 2,049 Posts
Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
Take plenty of photos during disassembly, and preferably disassemble over a tarp or similar so that any escaping bearing balls can be corralled.
And deprive them of the experience of listening to bearings bounce off the garage floor and roll under every immovable object, never to be found again?
dedhed is online now  
Old 01-27-22, 07:01 AM
  #11  
Keefusb
Keefusb
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 176

Bikes: 60cm 1992 Paramount, 60cm 1995 Cannondale R900 (son's bike), 1994 Cannondale H300 (mine), 1994 Cannondale H300 Killer V (wife's bike), 60 cm 1989 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra SLX

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked 57 Times in 36 Posts
That is exactly why it's nice to have a bunch of extra ball bearings sitting around. I buy mine from the local Ace Hardware, where they are cheap, and you can just reach into the little sliding box, and buy just what you need.
Keefusb is online now  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.