1983 Trek 520 tire clearance
#1
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1983 Trek 520 tire clearance
For the past couple of months, I have been looking for a touring/sport touring bike that I can use as a commuter or around town bike during the week, but then slap some knobbies on to race cyclocross on the weekends. I'm aware of the downsides of the compromise of using an old frame not meant for cyclocross and I'm okay with it.
My only real concerns are:
-being able to clear a 700x35 cross tire
-horizontal dropouts
-chromo frame
-keeping the cost down.
I've come across this:
https://nwga.craigslist.org/bik/d/19...258302021.html
Catalog looks to have spec'd it with a 27x1 1/8" tire, but I'm worried about clearance. Does anyone have direct experience with fitting a larger tire on this frameset. Or have any suggestions for frames that they know will clear this tire?
Thanks,
Chad
My only real concerns are:
-being able to clear a 700x35 cross tire
-horizontal dropouts
-chromo frame
-keeping the cost down.
I've come across this:
https://nwga.craigslist.org/bik/d/19...258302021.html
Catalog looks to have spec'd it with a 27x1 1/8" tire, but I'm worried about clearance. Does anyone have direct experience with fitting a larger tire on this frameset. Or have any suggestions for frames that they know will clear this tire?
Thanks,
Chad
#2
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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Nothing direct- experience... however, my 1985 Trek 620 and 720, which were both designed around 27 x 1 1/4 can both take a Compass Bon Jon Pass at 700c x 35 and still have room at the fork and the brake bridge and chain stay bridge.
You'll probably have an easier time, that's a non-canti frame, so side pulls or center pulls will work.
You'll probably have an easier time, that's a non-canti frame, so side pulls or center pulls will work.
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#3
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I can't say with absolute certainty but I would expect you would have no problem fitting 700x35 cross tires. While we sold that bike at the LBS I worked at in HS, it's been too long for me to remember.
However I do know that the touring bikes of that era were designed to use 27 x 1/14" and fenders almost universally. I realize this is more of a sport tourer, even so, this should give you plenty of room. FWIW I used to run my 83 UV Specialissima with cyclocross tires on occasion.
However I do know that the touring bikes of that era were designed to use 27 x 1/14" and fenders almost universally. I realize this is more of a sport tourer, even so, this should give you plenty of room. FWIW I used to run my 83 UV Specialissima with cyclocross tires on occasion.
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No guarantees on this but I have an 84 500 with the same 501 frame and chainstay length that also came with 27X1 1/18 tires. I can put 700x 35c Paselas on it, with a little bit of room at the fork and chainstays. If your knobs aren't too big, it could work. Centerpulls provide more room at the fork bridge.
Also, I weigh about 225. If you are not somewhat lighter, you might find it to be flexy when you are sprinting. I find it comfortable most of the time but everynow and then it feels a little wobbly. But, overall I really like it and just converted it to upright bars for commuting.
Also, I weigh about 225. If you are not somewhat lighter, you might find it to be flexy when you are sprinting. I find it comfortable most of the time but everynow and then it feels a little wobbly. But, overall I really like it and just converted it to upright bars for commuting.
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Last edited by beicster; 08-28-17 at 04:58 PM.
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thanks for the input everyone!
this is really good information!
I also weight right at 225, while I don't mind flex, I don't want to be riding a noodle either.
Might be worth the risk of experiment if I can get the seller down to a price more in line with what I'd like to pay.
Thanks!
No guarantees on this but I have an 84 500 with the same 501 frame and chainstay length that also came with 27X1 1/18 tires. I can put 700x 35c Paselas on it, with a little bit of room at the fork and chainstays. If your knobs aren't too big, it could work. Centerpulls provide more room at the fork bridge.
Also, I weigh about 225. If you are not somewhat lighter, you might find it to be flexy when you are sprinting. I find it comfortable most of the time but everynow and then it feels a little wobbly. But, overall I really like it and just converted it to upright bars for commuting.
Also, I weigh about 225. If you are not somewhat lighter, you might find it to be flexy when you are sprinting. I find it comfortable most of the time but everynow and then it feels a little wobbly. But, overall I really like it and just converted it to upright bars for commuting.
I also weight right at 225, while I don't mind flex, I don't want to be riding a noodle either.
Might be worth the risk of experiment if I can get the seller down to a price more in line with what I'd like to pay.
Thanks!
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I rode my 84 500 in to work this morning and decided to stand up and mash a bigger gear up a hill instead of sitting and spinning like usual just to see if I could get it to be noodley. It actually was much better than I remembered. As I thought about it more, I realized that the only time it was unacceptably wiggly was when I briefly put rear panniers on it with a typical commute load of computer, lunch, extra clothes, etc. That only lasted a few days. It is fine with a saddlebag but the panniers made it a bit scary.
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#7
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Standing up in the pedals on a bike with panniers is a skill you have to practice. You can't swing the bike back and forth at all, as you can on a regular rode bike. Bike will go out of control. Keep it as vertical as possible and stand up like you're walking up stairs. After an hour or so you'll have it down. Main purpose of this on a tour is to get your butt out of the saddle every once in a while. Also helps on steeper bits of course. I prefer doing this sometimes than staying in the saddle all the time and using tiny gears. Less fatiguing.
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Standing up in the pedals on a bike with panniers is a skill you have to practice. You can't swing the bike back and forth at all, as you can on a regular rode bike. Bike will go out of control. Keep it as vertical as possible and stand up like you're walking up stairs. After an hour or so you'll have it down. Main purpose of this on a tour is to get your butt out of the saddle every once in a while. Also helps on steeper bits of course. I prefer doing this sometimes than staying in the saddle all the time and using tiny gears. Less fatiguing.
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#9
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I have an '83 620 (centerpull brakes), and fit 35mm BonJon Pass tires just fine. Fenders would not work with these tires. Also, 38s would not clear.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
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That's the ticket!!!
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Somehow, the exact frame in that ad is sitting in my workshop and available for adoption. Even better, I would sell it at a much lower price.
Check your PMs.
bill
Check your PMs.
bill