Dirt proofing your gg/cross rides
#1
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Dirt proofing your gg/cross rides
How does one do this? What parts are most subject to water and dirt?
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You can kind of dirt proof your water bottle by putting a plastic bag over the top. Other than that, things are going to get dirty.
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I mount a full rear fender on a nearly permanent basis and add a front fender on soaking wet days.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 06-24-18 at 04:34 AM.
#4
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So basically, if you do a dk200, you need a new bike. Got it!
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#6
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Uh..No.
Although some of the big BDSM gravel *races* (and non-podium rides) do tend to be murder on equipment. The solution is to not worry about BDSM races, or be prepared to be buying new bearings/RDs/etc. Races always are murder on equipment, you takes your chances doing it---same as a roadie crit where you may be in a mass crash and taco a rim.
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Uh..No.
Although some of the big BDSM gravel *races* (and non-podium rides) do tend to be murder on equipment. The solution is to not worry about BDSM races, or be prepared to be buying new bearings/RDs/etc. Races always are murder on equipment, you takes your chances doing it---same as a roadie crit where you may be in a mass crash and taco a rim.
Although some of the big BDSM gravel *races* (and non-podium rides) do tend to be murder on equipment. The solution is to not worry about BDSM races, or be prepared to be buying new bearings/RDs/etc. Races always are murder on equipment, you takes your chances doing it---same as a roadie crit where you may be in a mass crash and taco a rim.
If you're gonna ride it, it might get broken/worn/dirty. And when it comes to racing, only take equipment that you would be comfortable replacing, because s**t happens.
You can reduce the probability of damage by being prudent: like Marcus says, choose events judiciously, perhaps walk or carry your bike through the mudbogs (instead of riding and falling), and keep your eyes out for sketchy riders who might crash you out.
Personally, I don't worry so much about trashing equipment...I would be more concerned about physical injury. I can always buy another bike, but I'm not growing any more teeth at this point.
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The first things that come to mind: water bottles, bb cable guides, hub bearings, and bb bearings.
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I put helicopter tape on the frame where straps will be attached for things like a frame bag, gas tank, or feed bag. I also put some on the underside of the down tube and the back of the seat tube. Fenders can be a good idea for wet conditions. Other than that, just clean/lube things when you finish up and don't use parts you can't afford to replace!
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LOL wut
Also, no, I've done the last 3 DK on my 10-year-old obsolete cantilever Specialized Tricross. I do replace chains, cassettes, chainrings, bottom brackets, and headsets a lot more frequently than my road bike, but that's because dirt acts like sandpaper and there's no way to avoid that.
Also, no, I've done the last 3 DK on my 10-year-old obsolete cantilever Specialized Tricross. I do replace chains, cassettes, chainrings, bottom brackets, and headsets a lot more frequently than my road bike, but that's because dirt acts like sandpaper and there's no way to avoid that.
#11
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Di2 is pretty dirtproof/waterproof.
-Tim-
-Tim-
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I mean, I wouldn't put something like dura ace or sram red on a bike if I couldn't afford to replace the components, but other than that just assume that like mountainbikes, gravel bikes wear through some things faster than a road bike - especially where mud and dust get all over the drivetrain. Assuming you stop when mud cakes bad and clean things regular, you should still get a couple of thousand miles out of a chain, so figure similar intervals relative to road components elsewhere.
Water bottles get trashed between seepage/condensation and grit. They'll still last a long time, but look ugly as hell.
Water bottles get trashed between seepage/condensation and grit. They'll still last a long time, but look ugly as hell.
#13
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1000 miles for a chain is not uncommon for me.
Derailleurs and similar components should last much longer. A chain is moving constantly. A derailleur is not shifting constantly and the pulley bearings are less exposed although they are easy to service and replace. I would be pretty upset if derailleurs lasted only a few thousand miles.
The pedals I use seem to the the next thing to wear after chains, in spite of having less exposed bearings. XT pedals have lasted less than 3000 miles before the bearings get cruncy. I have a pair off the bike now and hopefully re-greasing is all they need.
-Tim-
Derailleurs and similar components should last much longer. A chain is moving constantly. A derailleur is not shifting constantly and the pulley bearings are less exposed although they are easy to service and replace. I would be pretty upset if derailleurs lasted only a few thousand miles.
The pedals I use seem to the the next thing to wear after chains, in spite of having less exposed bearings. XT pedals have lasted less than 3000 miles before the bearings get cruncy. I have a pair off the bike now and hopefully re-greasing is all they need.
-Tim-
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#15
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point.
I called my lbs to ask about bearings in a gravel bike vs a mountain bike. They said there’s no difference in bearings unless you hand pick them. Chris King, Hope, etc. Then the materials are significantly more durable. They also said, usually a bike owner will wash the unit, then bring it in for a wash and tune up, replacing parts as needed. Cheaper throw away parts seem the better plan here. With serviceable hubs of course.
I did find some tricks. Wd 40, Pam,silicon sprays to help the gunk slough off during the ride.
I called my lbs to ask about bearings in a gravel bike vs a mountain bike. They said there’s no difference in bearings unless you hand pick them. Chris King, Hope, etc. Then the materials are significantly more durable. They also said, usually a bike owner will wash the unit, then bring it in for a wash and tune up, replacing parts as needed. Cheaper throw away parts seem the better plan here. With serviceable hubs of course.
I did find some tricks. Wd 40, Pam,silicon sprays to help the gunk slough off during the ride.
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#16
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Dirt proofing? Don’t ride it. Otherwise....ride. Wash. Rinse. Repeat...often. 😂
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Pam cooking spray?! That's genius!
#18
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PAM is canola oil and it will polymerize and turn into black goo that will gum things up. Not good to use on a decent bike. Vegetable oils < Mineral oils.
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I wax my cx/gravel frame with normal car wax once in a while after washing to help things slide off a bit better. Pledge is a spray wax so kinda same thing but lighter duty. 3M clear tape where cables rub.
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