Cannot fit rear wheel into dropouts after tire/tube change
#1
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Cannot fit rear wheel into dropouts after tire/tube change
Hey guys,
Long time since I've been on here-
Recently had a bad rear flat on my trek 7.3fx, over glass. Both the tire and tube were gone. I found the stock bontrager tire that came with the bike and put it on the wheel with a new tube easily.
Now, I can't for the life of me get the wheel back into the dropouts. Its about 1cm away from the perfect fit, but just won't go the extra last bit.
fyi I removed the wheel in the wrong gear, and corrected this only afterwards. Brakes are open. I'm not sure what to do next.
So two questions:
1. How do you get the rear wheel to fit snug in the dropouts?
2. Is it alright to use two different tires, both are 700x32.
Thanks
Long time since I've been on here-
Recently had a bad rear flat on my trek 7.3fx, over glass. Both the tire and tube were gone. I found the stock bontrager tire that came with the bike and put it on the wheel with a new tube easily.
Now, I can't for the life of me get the wheel back into the dropouts. Its about 1cm away from the perfect fit, but just won't go the extra last bit.
fyi I removed the wheel in the wrong gear, and corrected this only afterwards. Brakes are open. I'm not sure what to do next.
So two questions:
1. How do you get the rear wheel to fit snug in the dropouts?
2. Is it alright to use two different tires, both are 700x32.
Thanks
#2
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Are you saying that you can't get it into the dropouts? Some bikes need to have the tire deflated when installing. You inflate it once it's on. I know, not great, but that's the way it is.
If not the above: If you have gotten it into the dropout, are you saying that it's not lining up right or something? A better explanation or a picture may help.
-G
If not the above: If you have gotten it into the dropout, are you saying that it's not lining up right or something? A better explanation or a picture may help.
-G
#3
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No matter how I play with the derailleur I can't move it in. The tire is fully inflated, I will try to deflate.
Thanks.
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First thing, shift the lever to high gear and put the chain onto the smallest sprocket. This eliminates any chance that the RD position and sprocket don't match. It also improves clearance past the hanger on some bikes.
Then, I prefer to work right side up with the wheel on the floor. I pull the wheel back, jiggle it and push the frame down onto the axle. The other issue might (but shouldn't) be that the frame is a bit narrower than the axle and needs to be spread slightly when you put the wheel in.
Try the above and come back with results.
Then, I prefer to work right side up with the wheel on the floor. I pull the wheel back, jiggle it and push the frame down onto the axle. The other issue might (but shouldn't) be that the frame is a bit narrower than the axle and needs to be spread slightly when you put the wheel in.
Try the above and come back with results.
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It could be a bit narrow some bikes are 132.5 mm so you can fit a 130mm hub or a 135mm hub.
So spread the dropouts apart when installing.
So spread the dropouts apart when installing.
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Just place the non drive side into the chain stay put your thumb on the cassatte and fingers on the inside of the drive side stay and push the stay will move out slihtly and drop in.
The frame seems to be slightly narrower than the wheel for some reason not a big deal.
The frame seems to be slightly narrower than the wheel for some reason not a big deal.
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#9
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The wheel is in; I did it with the bike upright, little bit of pull on the wheel and spreading the dropouts. Weird because I've never had this problem before. This rear change was tough...
Just took it out for a quick spin, seems to be in nice, frictionless spinning- however with all the stress I put on the DR during the repair, I'm noticing that its now lagging when I switch gears by one/two revolutions... suggestions?
Also, I imagine its no big deal to have two separate tires on?
Thanks for the help.
Just took it out for a quick spin, seems to be in nice, frictionless spinning- however with all the stress I put on the DR during the repair, I'm noticing that its now lagging when I switch gears by one/two revolutions... suggestions?
Also, I imagine its no big deal to have two separate tires on?
Thanks for the help.
#10
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Not a big deal to have two different tires on, as long as they're relatively the same width. Did you bend your derailleur cage or hanger?
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Odds are the RD is a bit out of trim. First make sure it's all the way forward to the stop, then fine tune the shifting/trim with the cable adjuster.
BTW- I don't know if it made a difference or not, but if you get in the habit of always shifting to high to remove or install wheels it'll be a bit easier, and you'll never have to guess which sprocket to put the chain on.
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“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Since you have vertical dropouts, like most modern bikes, always mount the bike to the wheel with the wheel on the ground and the bike right-side-up. The wheel axle needs to be fully seated in the dropouts.
#13
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I did a little more tuning, and took it out for a good 30km hill ride, it did the trick. I then went to LBS, and obviously DR has some problems, wheels out of true, chain worn out etc, so now its getting early spring tune up anyways =)
Now to focus attention on the road bike.
Now to focus attention on the road bike.
#14
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Despite the fact most folks don't realise it, it makes perfect sense to use a size smaller on the front.
There's less weight on it.
There's less weight on it.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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Last night I, too, was unable to fit my rear wheel back into its drop-outs. It turned out that when I had removed the wheel and had completely unscrewed the drive-side nut, dropping the spring coil to the floor, I had replaced the coil backwards. The wide end of the coil was facing toward the cassette, and blocked the wheel from fitting into the drop-out. I'm new at this. Someone pointed out the reversal, put the coil in the right way (narrow end inward), and voila! Back on the road.
#16
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OMG DON'T DO IT!!!


Actually, front/rear specific makes a lot of sense. Skinnier on the front for the road, fatter/more aggressive tread on the front offroad.


Actually, front/rear specific makes a lot of sense. Skinnier on the front for the road, fatter/more aggressive tread on the front offroad.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#17
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This problem is sometimes seen when narrow pannier racks are installed. Had a rack fitted since the last time the wheel came out?
- Joel
- Joel