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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Your Most Recent Cycling-related Repair

Old 10-23-17, 06:32 PM
  #51  
wipekitty
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I replaced my rear derailleur cable last week. It broke while I was going up a rather steep hill...leading to a brief walk of shame followed by another 15 miles in 50x11.

I've also now learned the trick for keeping the derailleur in a more reasonable gear, should I ever snap the cable again.
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Old 10-23-17, 07:43 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by wipekitty
I've also now learned the trick for keeping the derailleur in a more reasonable gear, should I ever snap the cable again.
I would like to know. Google is my friend. Thanks for making me think about this possibility.
https://www.artscyclery.com/learning...rcablefix.html

I have been thinking about bar tape. I don't even need it any more. I feel my handle grip covers to be greatly superior, cheaper, easier to fit, and less bother to remove and replace when replacing cables than bar tape. This makes me wonder why road bikes have bar tape at all? What is bar tape's raison d'etre? Could it be that it is because bar tape is a nice little earner for lBS rather than actually being useful?!?
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Old 10-23-17, 08:22 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by wipekitty
I replaced my rear derailleur cable last week. It broke while I was going up a rather steep hill...leading to a brief walk of shame followed by another 15 miles in 50x11.

I've also now learned the trick for keeping the derailleur in a more reasonable gear, should I ever snap the cable again.
I snap one every few months with my massive index finger guads.
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Old 10-24-17, 07:21 AM
  #54  
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I replaced some uncooperative DTSwiss rim strips with Stan's Tubeless Tape on my wife's wheels last night.
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Old 10-24-17, 07:38 AM
  #55  
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I'm not a big bike wrencher, but I'm proud of my accomplishments this past weekend. After my last ride on my road bike I noticed the crank was wobbling. I ordered the appropriate Park tool to remove the bottom bracket. Then I found a Youtube video describing the process. This past weekend I successfully removed the bottom bracket, greased the parts and reassembled. It is all tight now. While on the stand I took out the rear brake cable and retouched some of the paint. I just need to return the cable and adjust the back brakes.
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Old 10-24-17, 02:29 PM
  #56  
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Front brake and pads on my Roubaix were replaced. The original had an oil leak that quickly contaminated the pads causing loss of effectiveness and tons of noise. Shimano paid for the replacement.
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Old 10-24-17, 02:30 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Bob Ross
I replaced some uncooperative DTSwiss rim strips with Stan's Tubeless Tape on my wife's wheels last night.
Funny, I just had a tube pop due to that stuff. It's flimsy stuff.
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Old 10-24-17, 03:02 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by dmanthree
Funny, I just had a tube pop due to that stuff. It's flimsy stuff.
It's definitely thin! But I've been running it on one of my wheels for ~18 months without incident, so I'm hoping that's the norm.
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Old 10-24-17, 03:13 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Bob Ross
It's definitely thin! But I've been running it on one of my wheels for ~18 months without incident, so I'm hoping that's the norm.
I'm a creature of habit, I guess. I broke down the tires and installed Velox. I've used it for decades without any issues. Someone mentioned Stan's No Tubes rim tape, and if I had thought of it I might have given that a try. It's designed for tubeless, but no doubt would work well with tubes.
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Old 11-21-17, 02:24 AM
  #60  
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The handle bar fairings are on and I will try them out soon.
Bar Fairings by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I have put reflective tape on my downtube and top tube - red in the picture above, yellow on my other bike for carbon protection and visibility at night. It is reasonably priced.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/http...808845586.html
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Old 11-21-17, 03:05 AM
  #61  
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Tonight I pulled a latex tube out of my rear wheel that had developed a slow leak over the weekend, and then was leaking somewhat quicker during this morning's ride so that I had to refill it during the ride to make it back home.

It appears that I micro-pinched it a little with a tire iron while swapping the stock tire that came on my new bike for this new Compass 32mm tire. Kind of wierd that it took a week to really turn into something. I patched it and put it back in. The tire had stretched out enough after a week of riding that I was able to get it on, albeit with difficulty, using just my hands.
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Old 11-21-17, 03:01 PM
  #62  
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Rebuild (as in overhaul)one of the Lyotard pedals on my Peugeot.
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Old 11-25-17, 10:44 AM
  #63  
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The motor cycle handlebar fairings rattled but they are warm so I persevered. Today I drilled a 6mm hole through the front top of both of my hoods and screwed an M6 stainless steel bolt into the hard plastic of the hood through the fairings which tapped a thread for itself in the plastic of the hood and now makes them rock solid.

Bolted to Hoods
by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I feel like I am riding a motorcycle, or a Rolls Royce.
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Old 11-25-17, 01:19 PM
  #64  
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I wiped down and lubed my chain, then cleaned the gunk off my pulley wheels.
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Old 11-25-17, 06:46 PM
  #65  
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5:17 am commuting to work (on my road bike). 28 degrees, dark and the rear tire gets really squishy (flat) halfway in. Find the cut, boot the tire and change out the tube in 7 minutes (with gloves on) and get to work only 5 minutes later than usual.
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Old 12-18-17, 07:58 PM
  #66  
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Another pair of Shimano Carbon soled shoes SIDI-fied with heel pads. I got them for 20USD when looking for a cheaper way to purchase cleats (on second hand shoes - sometimes they are cheaper than the cleats on the) for 20USD including postage. I now have 4 pairs of Shimano pro-level hollow carbon soled shoes! The previous owner had shoe gooed the heel (a cosmetic repair) but I did not bother to carbon patch them because the base of the heel is not critical, but a heel pad is, lest you wear all the carbon away.

The process of SIDI-fying (adding a replacable rubber heel) to a pair of carbon sole shoes is

1) Purchase some M5 claw nuts for a bout 1USD
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pc...833008717.html

2) Put a M5 bolt into your vice, protruding about 4mm, and screw the claw nut down onto it and then use your angle grinder to grind away 4-5mm of nut to about the height of the claws, and the bolt protruding from your vice.
Grinding Down a Claw Nut by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
You have to use the grinder upside down I think so that the nut is not twisted off the bolt. This means that sparks come in your own direction so old clothes are a good idea.
Grinding Down a Claw Nut by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
The shorter claw nuts can be used to repair cleat nuts too.

3) Drill a 7mm hole in the heel of your shoes. Do NOT drill the hole as shown in the picture below from the inside because the heel lining can get caught in the chuck and pulled off your shoes! Drill from the outside in, at about the place where there is a Shimano non-replaceable heel pad rivet.
Don't do this by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

4) Bed the nut in the inside of the sole in a two/three stage process (this is the only bit that is not obvious) by first bolting down using a cleat nut on the outside. Then, when the cleat bolt starts to turn the claw nut on the interior of the shoe (this can twist the claws cutting a circle in your sole) use a hammer and steel rod to bash the nuts claws into the carbon. Tighten with a cleat bolt again to embed the nut into the interior of the shoe so that you can't feel it when you replace the insole.

5) Bolt a piece of rubber onto your heel with a cleat bolt (I drill a 6mm hole through, and 12mm partial hole first) or purchase a SIDI replacement heel if you want it to look nice.
Adicted to SIDIfying by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

Replace the rubber, and the cleat bolt periodically. The super-stiff Shimano shoes, which were ready to go in the dustbin, are good for another decade.
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Old 12-19-17, 12:17 AM
  #67  
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Dang timtak, that's hard core!
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Old 12-19-17, 09:27 AM
  #68  
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Replaced broken rear derailleur cable last week.
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Old 12-20-17, 09:40 PM
  #69  
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Swapped frame sets.
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Old 12-24-17, 12:19 AM
  #70  
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1 broken spoke replacement and wheel trueing.
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Old 12-24-17, 12:26 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by dmanthree
Funny, I just had a tube pop due to that stuff. It's flimsy stuff.
How many layers? I'm just curious because when I've run tubes over two layers of Stans tape and then looked at the tape over the spoke holes, I just get a very little indenting downward, and nothing that could conceivably pop a tube.
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Old 12-24-17, 12:03 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by SethAZ
How many layers? I'm just curious because when I've run tubes over two layers of Stans tape and then looked at the tape over the spoke holes, I just get a very little indenting downward, and nothing that could conceivably pop a tube.
Just one layer, but the tube popped because the rim strip moved. When I pulled the wheel and tire the strip exposed a spoke hole, and well...
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Old 12-24-17, 02:35 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by dmanthree
Just one layer, but the tube popped because the rim strip moved. When I pulled the wheel and tire the strip exposed a spoke hole, and well...
Ah, that sucks. I have experienced Stans tape getting wrinkled a bit on the very edge where a tire bead that was squished between it and the bead hook was pulled out. Ended up having to pull the tape, clean up the rim, and lay down some new tape. I'm not sure if that's a Stans thing or more like any tape would have suffered similarly under similar circumstances.
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Old 01-05-18, 07:35 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by SethAZ
Ah, that sucks. I have experienced Stans tape getting wrinkled a bit on the very edge where a tire bead that was squished between it and the bead hook was pulled out. Ended up having to pull the tape, clean up the rim, and lay down some new tape. I'm not sure if that's a Stans thing or more like any tape would have suffered similarly under similar circumstances.
Stan's is good stuff, so I think that could happen to any tape. Right now I'm running Schwalbe rim tape, and all has been good since that install. Honestly, if I buy a new set of hoops I'll consider the lack of a need for any tape a big plus. Looking at the new Reynolds Aero 46db.
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Old 03-26-18, 07:36 PM
  #75  
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I removed the handlebar covers from my bike after a great winter of riding with warm hands.

Winter is over
by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I also replaced my brake pads with Discobrake red pads (at about 24USD for 4 pairs) but I will be replacing them with Kingstop reds at about 10USD for for pairs, since I can't tell the difference. I sewed my gloves up again, and replaced a Sidi-like pad that I had attached to my shoes.

Replacement Replacement Heel
by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
It is important to use a flat wood drill bit

to cut the recess for the head of the (cleat) bolt use to attach the pad to the sole. If you use a normal steel twist drill then it cuts a conical hole, weakening the rubber pad. I use a 11 or 12 mm drill not 22mm as shown.

Last edited by timtak; 03-26-18 at 10:00 PM.
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