Troul 

I have a .STL file that I can provide that may expedite the process. The file is not what I am wanting, but it is a modified rendering of the actual part. LMK if you'd want the file & how to send it over to you.

I am going to try attaching it in here.

WheresWaldo

STL files are just the outside and not a solid model, I do not do anything with STL files because they are too much work, especially for a one off part that only really has one person interested in it. I will pass on this until I am in a position to get an OEM mount and can create a solid model of it. Unfortunately Topeak and Prologo really didn't push the QuikClip very much and they have very few items that attach to it. Not like Specialized SWAT or Bontrager BLENDR mounts.

Troul 

do you offer a quick click setup that is close to the topeak that is as durable or better? I might be interested if you have both parts of the system that could replace the topeak version. It's not hard to swap out the part on the bag assuming it's within size. If you do, can you post some examples?

Troul 

WheresWaldo
any examples to the above?

jdoff

This looks pretty close. Here's some photos from my winter beater.





The 100mm width is to the inside of the rails in case it's not clear.

The 60mm is the vertical clearance to the top of my fender. (I have two bikes that would use these mounts; this is the one with the shortest vertical clearance.)

If you can give me the vertical and horizontal offsets to the center of each mount, relative to the center of the rack mounting plate, I should be able to determine whether this will fit.

WheresWaldo

jdoff We have:
From the center of the mounting hole to the center of the Cygolite mount is approx 16.25 mm
From the center of the mounting hole to the center of the FLY6ce mount is approx 22.5 mm
Both mounts are centered vertically on the mounting bolt holes

It might be possible to move mount the Cygolite above or inline with the mounting hole if we need more room on that side. With the FLY6ce I do not believe the 40 mm clearance above would allow for moving that section above and there is no way to make it inline because of the design.

WheresWaldo

Troul Nothing like that. I generally only do stuff where I can actually recover my CAD design time, which means I have to be able to sell a lot more than one set. For stuff like the ones I have done for others, I generally mod another model (which can take just from a few minutes up to maybe an hour of work), it is something I can leave in my shop knowing that over time there will be others that will want something like those 'semi-custom' mounts.

jdoff

You're right, this wouldn't work. Here's another idea. What if we use the outside set of mounting holes? They're 80 mm on center. The mounts can be offset above the holes by 10 mm, and the two mounts can be set 40 mm apart (centered horizontally, my drawing below isn't great). With this layout the right Fly6 button can't be used with them this close (but it doesn't do anything useful) and the Cygolite must be removed before the Fly6 can be rotated to remove it, but these are both fine with me.





For the "centers" of the lights, on the Fly6 I'm assuming the center of the mount, and for the Cygolite I'm assuming about 23 mm from the top of the locking tab (seems like this is roughly the center of the LED). Let me know what you think.

WheresWaldo

jdoff rack mount 2

Something more like this? It places each mount about as low as it can go and still leave ample material around the mounting holes. The mounts are 40 mm center to center right smack in the middle of the 80 mm center to center mounting holes, per your sketch.

By the way, the FLY6ce mount will accept an Apple AirTag in the rear.

jdoff

Cool, looks like that's it, if the dimension below is roughly correct. This will allow the Cygolite and the Fly6 to be aligned and both below the top of the rack.

WheresWaldo

Actually closer to 21+ mm from the bottom of the Cygolite tab to the center of the FLY6ce. I will upload.

https://shpws.me/SSBF

jdoff

Should work fine. I just ordered one to see! Thanks for working on this.

WheresWaldo

Don't know why I forgot to enable this adapter, but here it is now. Trek Integrated Seatpost Taillight Mount to Cycliq FLY6ce Gen 3 mount adapter.
https://shpws.me/SAPb

mschwett 

WheresWaldo love all your work! i have the specialized swat garmin 1/8 turn + airtag on my saddle... i'm curious if the airtag is meant to be removable without breaking the mount. the mount works great, but i'd like to switch the airtag for a different one...

zandoval 

Thanks for posting. I would like to see a section in the forum specifically for 3D printing and CMC manufacturing. Finding bicycle specific parts on other sites like Thingiverse and Shapeways can be tedious as they are hard to navigate and often are not specific to our needs. I have a little Ender3 printer and have worked mostly with PLA. The little printer has been handy for washers, ferrules, bar end caps and other little Do-Dads for my bicycles. It has been a great fathers day gift...

WheresWaldo

I thought I made it loose enough for removal if you take a very thin screwdriver or other pry tool. If it is too tight I need to know that and I will correct it for the future. I wanted it to be snug but not so tight you couldn't pry it out with a bit of effort. I might need to put in a notch somewhere to make it easier to pry out. The test models I have I was able to get apart with a bit of prying.

mschwett 

i will try again; but the fit is so tight (which is good!) that i didn't see a way to wedge anything in between the airtag and the surround without damaging one or the other. a notch wide enough to admit a thin flathead would probably be helpful.

which direction did you intend the airtag to be inserted? shiny or white side out?

WheresWaldo

The silver side toward the rear so that you can still remove the cover to replace the battery. I guess that would be white side in.

mschwett 

right, which is silver side forward on the bike. that's the way i have it.

WheresWaldo

So is removing the AirTag something one would do on a regular basis? I am not in the Apple ecosystem so I don't have much familiarity with their product line or how people use them. I actually already redesigned them with a slot but that doesn't help you. I was just curious how it was being used.

mschwett 

definitely not regularly. i think i’d prefer to remove it to replace the battery rather than do it while it’s under the seat facing forward. it’s also not immediately obvious which way it should go, so one might want to turn it around. finally, it can get dirty back there with mud and water from the rear tire so i would probably take it out to really clean that area rather than get water stuck inside it. not a big deal.

i like the mount a lot - what’s probably most problematic is that it’s just very easy to see the airtag, since it’s shiny shiny silver. it would be awesome if it actually faced UP (requiring removing the swat mount to install or replaced) and all you could see from below or behind was the black plastic housing.

Cyclo_Tron

I'm posting a question about a 3D printed derailleur hanger I've been screwing with later today (once I hit the 10 post limit for posting pictures). It went better than you may think but I'm left with some questions.

+1 for the Ender3. If you're a hobbyist, you're not gonna' beat it for value. Just get the newest one you can.

WheresWaldo

Ask away, there are plenty of people her who have personal 3D printers. You are pretty brave printing a derailleur hanger with the Ender 3. I don't even offer anything like that printed on the professional HP MultiJetFusion printers, never will either. But it would prevent any real damage to a derailleur in the event of a crash as the plastic would likely give way long before an aluminum hanger would. I would be skeptical of the printed threads for the derailleur mounting bolt, as printed threads are just not very strong.

I do have a question about its use and practicality. Did you notice any difference in shifting performance using a printed derailleur hanger over the original metal one?

Cyclo_Tron

Link to post:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1242578-old-er-bike-new-er-derailleur-hanger-problems.html

I bought the bike used and it had some POS MicroShift on it. With a new Acera and a PLA derailleur, it shifted wonderfully.

I think, ultimately, it was actually the compression from the quick release hub that killed it. It lasted a couple of months.

I printed a second in PETG that broke away when I had to dump the bike a few weeks later. I'd like to print another in nylon or glass-reinforced nylon and see how it goes.

The threads were okay. Even better in PETG. I used the thread making tool in SolidWorks and chased then with a tap. Tightened to factory spec. If they were really fine, I'd be worried, but they're fairly robust.

Ultimately, I'll have to be happy with it for a while since the new derailleur is a standard (not direct) mount and only a custom derailleur hanger allows it to be mounted and work. I'll sell it eventually, get a direct mount, and just use a factory aluminum hanger. But that'll be after the holidays, minimum.

WheresWaldo

Cyclo_Tron I am impressed. I would never dare 3D print a hanger unless I was printing in metal.

Nylon is my guess at the better material here, but it is a bear to print on an Ender 3. I printed some nylon in the past on a few FDM printers and it was a mixed bag of results. A lot of warping unless it was a really hot day and I used a very wide raft. Even with an enclosure it needed to be hot in the room. Now a days all my home printing is in resin and that needs consistent climate control.