Titanium Bikes
#76
Member
Thread Starter
After looking for months, I finally pulled the trigger on this Lynskey. Spent the last couple of months "making it mine" by swapping out with components I want. It's finally done! Took it out for a first ride this past weekend and it rode very nice! Thanks for everyone's inputs to my original post.
Now the next thing to debate on is do I keep my R3? I don't see the point of having two similar style bikes.
Now the next thing to debate on is do I keep my R3? I don't see the point of having two similar style bikes.
#77
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
If I were to compare my Moots Compact with my C'Dale Synapse the things I notice would probably be more due to geometries and frame design rather then frame material. My TI bike is actually lighter than the carbon one though. The Moots as a really tight wheel base and corners on rails. The C'dale is an all day comfort bike. I tend to like the Moots better for it's snappy ride.
#78
Junior Member
My first quality bike was a mid-80’s top of the line steel Bianchi with friction shifters, second was 1995 Merlin Ti Extralight and my newest is a carbon 2020 Bianchi Aria. As far as comfort it’s the steel Bianchi. The ride was compliant and not as stiff as the Ti or carbon.
#79
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Owning steel, titanium, carbon fiber and aluminum, I believe that comfort, handling and ride quality depend totally on frame design, fit and tires. They have nothing to do with the frame material. The only thing that affects is weight.
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#80
Local 1212
97 Merckx Built By Litespeed
I take terrible photos. My Dreddy Merckx rebuilt by my guy, nothing crazy. 105, King Hubs laced to H Plus Son, King HS, Wound Up. Big Ups.
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#81
my nice bike is at home
".....but the study went on to determine that 100% of these riders crashed into a tree, a curb or a parked car.."
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BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
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#83
Newbie
I don't need the fastest bike because I will never be the fastest rider. I used to be a bike tech at a large volume dealer and I worked on and rode hundreds of different bikes. I don't care what studies say Ti is my ride. And Ti is a durable lifetime bike material. CF is not. I would still like to get a Reynolds 953 Stainless Steel bike frame to build up.....maybe someday. For now my 3 Lynskey Titanium bikes will do just fine.
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#85
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Hello,
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
#86
Advocatus Diaboli
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Maybe a Tuscany? Early to mid 2000s?
#87
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Franklin, TN
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Bikes: 2016 Cervelo R3 & 1999 Litespeed Tuscany
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I don't think it's a Tuscany. Mine doesn't have the dropped seatstays. It probably is circa 2000 by looking at the labels, though.. Same font as my 1999. If you can inspect it look on the non-drive side chainstay. If it has David Lynsky's signature it is pre-2000.
#88
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Hello,
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
The company changed hands some time in '99, at which point it's likely that the Lynskey signature disappeared off the chain stay. Since they were presumably building MY 2000 frames in '99, there are likely MY2000 frames out there with and without the signature - which is also a decal, so not permanent. The presence/absence of a signature isn't definitive. FWIW, my 2000 frame came with a signature.
Last edited by Litespud; 05-27-21 at 10:06 AM. Reason: updated info and typos
#89
Senior Member
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#91
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Thank you very much for the replies. Now knowing that it is a Saber I am going to pass on trying to get it; a 77-degree ST angle might make fitting it a challenge for an old guy.
#92
senior member
I have a 2003 Lite Speed tuscany , originally Campy Chorus and now Shimano Ultegra - if I were to get another Ti Bike , it would be from FireFly Cycles in Boston with 100% Campy Record .
#93
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Design and production has far more influence on frame life than material choice. Plenty of Ti frames crack around the welds, which are notoriously tricky in Ti.
CF can have it's issues too, but CF frames can also be very durable.
I would say steel is the safest choice for a "lifetime" frame as it's the easiest to produce reliably and most forgiving material.
CF can have it's issues too, but CF frames can also be very durable.
I would say steel is the safest choice for a "lifetime" frame as it's the easiest to produce reliably and most forgiving material.
#94
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Hello,
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
Looking for help identifying the Litespeed model of the frame shown in photo. Looking at old catalogs it looks like a Tachyon tri-bike, but this frame takes 700c wheels vs 650's that are shown in the catalogs. I found a thread that talks about Litespeed supposedly offering a road version of the Tachyon and while the seat tube angle looks more road than triathlon, I can't verify that anywhere.
Any help will be very much appreciated,
John
#95
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Weston, FL
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Bikes: '92 Merlin Extralight, '19 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
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I love my Giant TCR Advanced 0 Disc, but, at almost 30 years old, I still love riding my Merlin Extralight, downtube shifters and all. I thought about updating it with click shifting, but after discussing the upgrade with my bike shop's owner, he and I agreed it was too beautiful to take away that vintage look.
#96
just having fun
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#97
Member
Bikes:
1986 cannondale sr1000 in 58cm, aluminum
2009? lynskey r330 in 58 (large?), titanium
2012 kona raijin mtb, 29", size large (made by lynskey for kona), titanium
As we all learned in physics the stiffness of a tube is linear with the moi, which roughly grows with the 4th power of the diameter. So tube diameter is the thing to measure. For each measurement of minimum outer tube diameter in mm. I'm providing the triple of <cannondale, lynskey, kona>:
Top Tube: 35, 33, 35
Seat tube: 32, 35, 36
downtube: 45,44,44
seatstay: 19x26,15,19
chainstay: 25.5, 20.5, 19
Of note, the r330 has manipulated tube shapes, they have diamond profiles 'n stuff. I just measured min diamter because it was easy and the difference is so small. The cannondale on the other hand has massively ovalized seatstays, their short diameter in direction of bike is 19mm but the long diameter across the bike is a whopping 26mm. The canondale seatstay difference was so large that I left it in the table.
Using the "press foot on pedal and eyeball it" technique the cannondale is very resistant to flex. Like really solid, not a spring. With same wheels the r330 is very flexy, boing-boing. The kona mtb with a 140 float 34 suspension fork and maxxis dhf 2.3 in front and a vittoria mezcal 2.25 in back was surprisingly resistant to flex, its flex seems to be much closer to the cannondale, and that is including some pretty significant tire flex.
Stiffness is complicated because all the components effect each other but it seems like the lynskey seat stay diameter is the source of the flex here, and the cannondale's wide seatstays are why it feels so sprinty (even though it is aluminum which is not as stiff as titanium).
1986 cannondale sr1000 in 58cm, aluminum
2009? lynskey r330 in 58 (large?), titanium
2012 kona raijin mtb, 29", size large (made by lynskey for kona), titanium
As we all learned in physics the stiffness of a tube is linear with the moi, which roughly grows with the 4th power of the diameter. So tube diameter is the thing to measure. For each measurement of minimum outer tube diameter in mm. I'm providing the triple of <cannondale, lynskey, kona>:
Top Tube: 35, 33, 35
Seat tube: 32, 35, 36
downtube: 45,44,44
seatstay: 19x26,15,19
chainstay: 25.5, 20.5, 19
Of note, the r330 has manipulated tube shapes, they have diamond profiles 'n stuff. I just measured min diamter because it was easy and the difference is so small. The cannondale on the other hand has massively ovalized seatstays, their short diameter in direction of bike is 19mm but the long diameter across the bike is a whopping 26mm. The canondale seatstay difference was so large that I left it in the table.
Using the "press foot on pedal and eyeball it" technique the cannondale is very resistant to flex. Like really solid, not a spring. With same wheels the r330 is very flexy, boing-boing. The kona mtb with a 140 float 34 suspension fork and maxxis dhf 2.3 in front and a vittoria mezcal 2.25 in back was surprisingly resistant to flex, its flex seems to be much closer to the cannondale, and that is including some pretty significant tire flex.
Stiffness is complicated because all the components effect each other but it seems like the lynskey seat stay diameter is the source of the flex here, and the cannondale's wide seatstays are why it feels so sprinty (even though it is aluminum which is not as stiff as titanium).
measurement of minimum outer tube diameter in mm. I'm providing the triple of <lynskey r330, kona raijin mtb, MOOTS psychlo x>:
Top Tube: 33, 35, 38.5
Seat tube: 35, 36, 32
downtube: 44, 44, 40
seatstay: 15, 19, 19
chainstay: 20.5, 19, 22
The moots matches or exceeds the raijin in seatstay/chainstay size and it has a wishbone seatstay arrangement that should stiffen things up by shortening the stay. Like I said the moots feels stiff yet ride is super smooth - I think the alpha-q fork is responsible.
Lynskey r330 is gone now and I don't miss it at all.
Last edited by impolexg; 09-02-21 at 07:54 PM. Reason: add picture
#98
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I love my Giant TCR Advanced 0 Disc, but, at almost 30 years old, I still love riding my Merlin Extralight, downtube shifters and all. I thought about updating it with click shifting, but after discussing the upgrade with my bike shop's owner, he and I agreed it was too beautiful to take away that vintage look.
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#99
Full Member
Sadly and mistakenly sold my Planet X Tempest Ti Force 1 gravel bike that I got for a steal last year to help fund my move this year (big mistake). This left a big void in having an around town, travel, and gravel bike. So for my birthday I got a Litespeed Cherohala City. The bike is fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. I think a lot of people will scoff at the flat bars and sum it up to an insanely expensive hybrid, but this bike is not only amazing commuter but a really capable gravel machine, since it is based on the Cherohala SE. This thing has kind of rejuvenated my cycling since I have become tired of constantly having spandex up, clip in, and get sore on my carbon race bike every time I wanted to just ride. Being able to just jump on the bike with whatever on and just rip it has been great
#100
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Bought local.
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