BobA

Trek has released (maybe just on paper) the updated 2022 Trek FX 3 Disc. What I see as significant (if I ignore my love of the rage red), the crank is down to one gear (40T), the cassette has gone from 9 (11-36) to 10 gears (11-46), and the rear derailleur family has changed from Alivio to Deore. Like some other people, when I buy something I want the latest model of it. I'm on the books for a 2021 FX 3 Disc in mid December (not cycling season where I live).

What I understand from 99spokes, this change in the gearing will result is a lower downhill speed by about 4 MPH. I'm not sure I even want to be on a bicycle going 30+ MPH.

What will the upgrade tier/family to Deore mean for me over the Alivio? I've got a 1990 Giant Rincon that will be retired. It has Shimano GS200 at the rear which people here have called trash. I have found a tune-up every five years or so can correct shifting stubbornness. I test road a reputable brand bike, just built per the LBS sales guy, it had Tourney shifters and they were awful. The shifting while cranking was jerky, clunky, loud and stubborn. This is also the lowest tier. I don't know if it was because of the decades old LBS retail brand from California, the Shimano Tourney, or the LBS skill at the bench. But it was not positively impressive. Do tiers these days mean more than they did in 1990?

This would be used by me for exercise, ridden through city traffic to get to the paved path riding (and occasional gravel connectors).

Help me think this through, maybe there are points I'm not recognizing that you serious cyclists might see as obvious. Thanks.

(and around me, no one is keeping spare bikes that cost less then $1,500 for customer test rides. You order, pay and wait. So trial rides are not happening.)

Thanks.

Moisture

I have a 2012 Trek FX 7.3 . It is a fine bike.

with a 40t front and 11-46 cassette, you will have plenty of range on both ends of the spectrum.

very little difference in performance between alivio or deore. They both shift well and will do so reliably for many years. That's all you need to know.

Only thing whats important is knowing what sort of frame geo in combination with what size parts will fit you most comfortably.

DorkDisk

Tourney existed back then also. 200GS was kinda where Alivio is now. I had 100GS in 1990; it was mostly plastic coated steel, yet functionally good and with much trickle down tech for the era- rapdifire shifters, cassette hub, cogs with cutouts, biopace chainrings. It still has more modern tech than current tourney and functions better.

My advice: Don’t buy Tourney. Quality starts at Deore.

Moisture

Theres nothing wrong with the tourney either. Other than the rider, whole other plethora of combinations dicating shift quality such as chain, chainring teeth, cassette teeth, condition of wires etc.

Tourney is not ideal for aggressive riding ajd shifting but will still do so reliably for years of maintained properly like any other derailleur.

I've used the altus, alivio, and deore all extensively. They all worked fine.

AU Tiger

Go with the 1x drive train. Only having one derailleur to worry about greatly simplifies riding and maintenance. I have a 40T on the front and an 11-speed 11-46T on the rear, and that gives me plenty of range in a fairly hilly part of central Pennsylvania. It would take an awful lot of other improvements for me to ever go back to a 2x or 3x drive train.

Russ Roth

1x for me is very much a purpose made thing. I bought my parents 1x since they could never learn how to properly shift their old hybrids, they now do so with the simplicity 1x offers. My mtb is 1x and was switched there from 2x, I found that for actual trail riding I never used the larger ring and when I rode it on pavement it was so I could ride slower at the kids' speeds, going 1x was an easy choice and I've been happy with it. But, for any other riding I would find the 40x11 too slow while the easy might not be easy enough for me or for pavement where climbs can change so much over longer periods of time and wind can be such a large variable I don't like the big jumps of the larger cassettes. Both my gravel and cross bikes are geared differently but both are 2x to keep that tighter rear cassette and allow for more gear options as surface, elevation, wind, and strain from the longer rides determine I need changes. For a hybrid that would take over much of the duties of my gravel bike, which only spends about 10% of its time on actual gravel, I would want 2x. A nice 32/46 crank with 11/34 or 11/36 cassette.

Mista Sparkle

Both look nice. I'd takle the 2x for more road focused riding and the 1x for why dont you have a 1x12 or mountain bike so probably still the 2x.

Moisture

agreed. I like having the option of 2x up front, one which I spend most my time in, then an overdrive or sprinting gear.. this gives you the option for a close ratio rear cassette.

3x is also good because it can give you an overall better chainline when used properly.

Whether your bike is 1x , 2x or 3x, the most important is having the correct ratio combinations between front ring(s) and the rear cassette.

My new trek verve e bike has a 38t front with 11-36 cassette rear. 38x36 on a very tough climb wouldn't be so easy with electric and a heavy load, but manageable. This is my first 1x bike and I am enjoying the simplicity of no front derailleur or extra shifter. The teeth profile of a single chainring not designed for shifting is more durable and another plus. I would prefer a smaller jump between the cogs in the rear though.

both my trek hybrid bikes (fx 7.3 and the verve) have a 38 x 11 as my top gear. I wouldn't feel comfortable going any faster and never had an issue with spinning out unless I am going down a very steep hill. 40x11 is a releastic top gear that will keep you safe and offer you a more usable range overall with better spacing for real world riding.

I would prefer a 12 or 13t final gear in my cassette though.
.

AU Tiger

Even though (as I previously stated) I'm firmly in the 1x camp, the comments about a 2x setup providing better (tighter) gear spacing are valid. Especially since the Trek's 1x is only 10-speed compared to the one on my bike which is 11-speed. I went from a 9-speed 3x on my first bike to an 11-speed 1x on my current bike, so the gear spacing wasn't all that different. Going from 9-speed to 10-speed, the difference is more dramatic.

Sometimes visuals help, so here's a quick graph comparing the gear spacing on the 2021 and 2022 FX 3. Most of the gaps are noticeably smaller on the 2x system. I'd still probably opt for the 1x myself just because I really love the simplicity, but it's not quite as clear-cut as it would be if it were an 11-speed.

Moisture

As long as the ratios fall on useful gear ratios which you find yourself using regularly, its really all that matters.

a 2x or 3x setup isn't so helpful if you find yourself never needing the granny ring, or always staying in one specific gear ratio/combination... etc.

If you find yourself being more or less in the middle of your cassette most of the time, its probably a good indication that the chainring you are using is well suited to your needs.

Although, keep in mind there is more to it than simple teeth counts which dictate gear inches.

lastly, when navigating through quick changing hills and gradients, being able to easily switch from two different chainring profiles can be easier and more efficient.

To conclude, this is my first time actually using 1x and I like it. There are pros and cons to each setup, but I think I agree that the simplicity of 1x will marginally outweigh the others. However, my choice would probably be with a 2x or 3x which is properly setup as far as chainline is concerned.

Something like a 28/36/46 would work perfectly for my needs with a close ratio 13-28 in the back

BobA

Thanks everyone for your input. I did put in an order for the 2022 FX 3 Disc.

AU Tiger

Congrats, and enjoy the new bike!
Oh, and pictures are required when you get it. =)