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can't get tire on rim

Old 05-26-13, 01:21 PM
  #26  
Bill Kapaun
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If you ride your bike off a dock, aren't you technically hydroplaning until you reach the bottom of the lake?
(Assuming you remain seated)
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Old 05-26-13, 01:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
If you ride your bike off a dock, aren't you technically hydroplaning until you reach the bottom of the lake?
(Assuming you remain seated)
No, at first you're free falling, then sinking. Having done this a few times, I assure you that the bike doesn't spend a fraction of a second skimming the surface. I've also ridden down the banks into a lake, and neither wheel ever loses contact with the bottom.
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Old 05-26-13, 03:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Velo plugs are a good alternative, since there's no increase in diameter. I wasn't sure if they made them in the right depth for aero profile rims.

So now it's tires and technique. One thing about pushing the tire toward to the center that many don't do wall is pushing the slack forward as you go. This takes a bit of practice, but you have to use your thumbs in a sliding motion to push the tire forward as you work toward the valve. The tire tend to try to back to the side of the rim, where the diameter is larger if you let it cancelling your effort. Si it's important to maintain forward tension until you get to the valve and finish mounting.
Thanks. I'll practice, even though I dread taking off the tire.

BTW, the wheels are worth it. I did a 50 mile ride today and man they were comfortable wheels. One of the main reasons I got the wheels built was to improve the ride quality. My arthritic neck appreciates it.
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Old 05-27-13, 05:54 AM
  #29  
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I have had the problem with just a few road bike tires. I lay the tires in the sun to " soften them " a little.
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Old 05-27-13, 06:13 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Esteban32696
I have had the problem with just a few road bike tires. I lay the tires in the sun to " soften them " a little.
Since the issue is getting the steel bead over the rim, you're unlikely to get it hot enough to soften it to any meaningful degree leaving it in the sun on planet Earth (you might manage on Mercury). I suspect any gains there are likely to be psychological - you think it should be easier, so it is. I suppose thermal expansion might slightly loosen the fit of the tyre on the rim and make it easier, but that doesn't do you any good when you get a flat on a cold, rainy night and need to remove and refit the tyre.
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Old 05-27-13, 06:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by goldfinch
Nice! It looks like they are in production. I'll consider it. I've seen the Kool Stop tire jack before, but they are huge and would be tough to carry on the bike.

My thumbs still have dents in them today!
I have both and find the Kool jack easier, but both helpful. I've got a 20" wheel on which it is a real *#$&@ to get tires - I ride with the Kool jack just because I don't want to be down-and-out for 30 minutes putzing with a tire...
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Old 05-27-13, 07:09 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by goldfinch
Let me start by saying that I have changed many tires. I change my tires on my bikes if I get flats, if I want to swap them out, or whatever. I change my spouse's tires. My family's tires. Some are tough. Some are easy. But they all get changed.

I just bought new wheels for my road bike. I took off the old wheels, took off the tires. Now I am putting the tire on the new front wheel. The tires are Michelin pro. The rims are aerohead rims. I can't for the life of me get the tire on. It isn't even close to going over the edge of the rim.

What do I do? I could barely get one side on to start. What am I going to do if I get a flat? Should I risk using the tire levers?

This has almost reduced me to tears.
I had the same worries with my new wheels a few years ago. Even with no tube installed, the first bead needed a tire lever to mount, and then I can't slide the tire around the rim to line up the tire label with the valve. That's tight!

But I have an easy method to mount these tight tires. These are folding bead tires. It might not work with stiff steel wire beaded tires.

See this thread -- How to: Tight fitting tire - easy mounting

The key is to just lift less than an inch of the bead, then slide the lever over and repeat. It's fast and easy.


Last edited by rm -rf; 05-27-13 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 05-27-13, 07:14 AM
  #33  
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I had tried a lot of suggestions, and they didn't help with my wheels.

Tires stretch after mounting, and are easier to re-mount later.
I was remounting a tire that had been used on my old rims. It was only slightly easier to mount than a brand new tire. The first time, even with these used tires, I had mangled levers and sore fingers after a long struggle.

Push the bead down into the center of the well

I did that. The well is very shallow on Kinlin 30 rims. Even with just one bead mounted, and no tube installed, the tire can't slide sideways around the wheel.

Work the slack of the bead around the rim to get the last part over.
It made no difference at all for me.

Use thin rim tape or veloplugs
The wheels came with very thin synthetic tape, the stretchy loop type, no adhesive. Still tight. I don't think veloplugs would be any improvement. Their caps are thicker than this tape.

Try a different brand of tire
I'm sticking with Continental GP4000 tires.


Kinlin rims have a very shallow well, so there's not much slack to get the last part of the bead over the rim. Anyway, it'll be harder for a flat tire to come off the rim!

Last edited by rm -rf; 05-27-13 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 05-27-13, 07:21 AM
  #34  
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This isn't a fitting tip, but even if the tread isn't directional, the time-honored mounting convention (which you'll see on pro-mounted tires) is to put the maker's label on the drive-side of the bike, directly over the valve stem. Some folks, however, put the label by the rim seam, across the rim from the valve stem's location, which usually puts the recommended pressure notation by the valve. Regardless, the drive-side positioning of the label is the assumption the makers use for directional tread tires, which includes more tires than you think - there's also often an arrow on the sidewall showing the direction (even on a file-and-herringbone pattern tread, such as the Vittoria CX).

Besides showing care and attention to detail, and being consistent with the manufacturer's design, the consistent orientation helps you keep track of where a puncture happened, so you can check to see if anything sharp remains in the carcass.

Last edited by JML; 05-27-13 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 05-27-13, 09:55 AM
  #35  
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Good thread! Thanks for all the tips and links. It is interesting to read some of the linked threads where some people are pretty adamant that it is all technique. I see that it is not.

I am going to get some talc and put some in a tiny baggie for on the bike. I am a jewelry maker and have lots of very little baggies. I ordered the VAR levers. Depending on how well they work I may or may not get the big Kool Stop jack too, for ease of use at home.

I really love the wheels so I am going to live with this problem. I now have to decide whether to carry two tubes. I currently only carry one. And, I am glad I am a Better World Club member, if worse comes to worse.
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Old 05-27-13, 11:52 AM
  #36  
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Would you tell us where you found the VAR lever? My source dried up. thanks
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Old 05-27-13, 05:42 PM
  #37  
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Here is where I got mine. Quick service as well.

https://www.retro-gression.com/produc...tire-bead-jack
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Old 05-27-13, 07:21 PM
  #38  
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Thanks, that's a good price.
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Old 05-27-13, 09:14 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by lvolpe
Here is where I got mine. Quick service as well.

https://www.retro-gression.com/produc...tire-bead-jack
This is where I found the one I ordered.
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Old 05-28-13, 05:46 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Airburst
Since the issue is getting the steel bead over the rim, you're unlikely to get it hot enough to soften it to any meaningful degree leaving it in the sun on planet Earth (you might manage on Mercury). I suspect any gains there are likely to be psychological - you think it should be easier, so it is. I suppose thermal expansion might slightly loosen the fit of the tyre on the rim and make it easier, but that doesn't do you any good when you get a flat on a cold, rainy night and need to remove and refit the tyre.
Works for me,,, but I live in Florida.
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Old 06-05-13, 04:06 PM
  #41  
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I got my VAR lever from Retro-gression today. Now I just have to try it out! I am squeamish about taking off the tires but I suppose it is better to do it here for the first time than do it on the road. In the bag with the levers was a Retro-gression ad that shows Einstein writing on a blackboard: "Forum.retro-gression.com. This ain't bikeforums, dawg!"

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