RustyJames 

I’ll buck the trend - I do try to keep my old bikes original. If I wanted something that worked like a modern bike I would buy a modern bike. To me, it’s like putting a fuel injected modern 4 cylinder engine into a Model T. Some people indeed do this but it’s not for me.

Old stuff old, new stuff new…

droppedandlost 

Trifecta!

gugie 

Prices included "trade-in", so just upgrade. Gold cluster is the freewheel. If I could go back in time I'd buy up lots of all that.

Unfortunately, I don't have the bike. I sold it in my early 20's to upgrade to a Team Fuji. I do have one picture of the Raleigh Super Course Mk II:


Rosebud

randyjawa 

Simply put, unless you start with a bike in exceptionally good shape and fitted with all of the original components, chances are the cost to restore will be very high. This recently acquired Trek came to me in 100% original and very little used condition. All it needs is cleaning, greasing and new bar tape to call it "restored" but this is an unusual find...


For me, I strive to complete accurate restorations but rarely succeed. When I build a bike I call the end product a "street restoration" meaning close to the mark but not bang on. This old Legnano all but demands new paint and art but I have resisted changing it. It is "as found" cosmetically but now sports some Legnano specific components. "Street restored" with upgrades would be the best description...



My Rabeneick, purchased as a frame/fork set, is as close restored as I could afford and I should add that I do all of the work myself. This one sports close to correct decals, period correct components and a close to original rattle can paint job scheme as I could manage myself...


This one came to me complete with all original components but everything was, to say the least, cosmetically challenged. I tried my best to keep period and model correct with component choices, however, I did install a better saddle and a Velox transmission, a model or two higher that original issue. I also purchased and applied the closest decal set I could get. And, I painted it with a brush...

gugie 

To be honest, I do see the value in having a completely original bike, but it really depends on the bike. I have a fairly rare Peugeot PH-60. It bothers me that the tail light isn't correct. I need to fix that someday.

Roger M

And after the new steam

ManekiNico

NO: I bought my Treviso as a frameset (with bottom bracket) in 1986. By 1993, it was sporting a dog’s breakfast of components bought from whatever my favourite LBS had on hand and/or what I could afford.

HECK NO: There were also a few single speed iterations from 2000 to 2015 that we don’t talk about.

YES: I had the frame restored just before the pandemic with the goal of matching the “original” catalogue spec from 1985. I have collected all the required period-correct parts (give or take a generation), but I yet have to build it up.

bark_eater 

On bikes I have built and ride I do tend to balance "form follows function" with "in the style of" . Cartridge bottom brackets all around though.

In the project pile there are a couple few that will be built up as "period correct", but "tastefully" upgraded with bits I've been collecting, so the Super Course "box" has a Suntour Vx group, a 5 speed wheel set with Campy hubs, Mafac racers, a 52-36t cottered crankset, shorty fenders, TA cages and an old saddle bag and hoop. I'll try an bring the original Brooks back to service, but just to save buying a new one.

One thing that I've got lined up for every potential "keeper" is a compact crankset of some sort.

reissue59

Nope
for me, it's gotta work

iab

Yes. Except for one bike.

sincos

Don't know. I tend to get frames and build up with what I like/have around without knowing what catalog-spec was supposed to be. So if it ever happened it was pure luck.

nlerner

I think my exception to not necessarily caring about originality is when it comes to old Fujis. They were mostly all spec-ed with SunTour components, so I really avoid setting the ones I've had up with anything Shimano. Just doesn't seem right.

Tomm Willians

I’m in the midst of having a reproduction Schwinn Wheaties Paramount built that won’t be quite 100% accurate but I’m ok with that. The paint job looks great and I found a set of clinchers that look very much like Wolbers and took liberty with Shimano 7400 brifters rather than downtube shifters. Also used a quill stem adapter to use a 1-1/8 stem and larger bars.
I believe I’ll enjoy it much more than if it was completely accurate.

merziac

I will chime back in to drop these again, IMO, the absolute best of both worlds, period.

Classic vintage frames from one of the best, full of soul and awesome as the day is long.

And made even better with modernish drivetrains, better brakes to a degree and gearing that will take me anywhere I want to go for the most part, could not and would not go without.





And then of course is a full on brand new full on version that is even more fantastic as it was built with the same goal in mind from scratch for and by me specifically.

It takes the above rationale to a whole other level, nails it and will continue to do so from now on.

bikingshearer 

Or maybe Gran Compe Steam was a special seasonal offering form the Anchor Brewing Company . . . .

Kabuki12

yup, same here. Before my first lightweight bike left the shop it had been modified. I bought my Kabuli Diamond Formula new from a guy in Oxnard that built frames and raced His name was Stan Johnson and we became friends . He actually raced a bike just like mine and modified my bike to what he felt it should have had for better performance. The 27” wheels were changed to 700c Gentleman Super Champion with SS spokes(I lived on a sailboat) and some of the bearings were swapped out. I still have the bike but I have changed since to Campagnolo. Components.

BMC_Kid 

I prefer to build up my traditional bikes with silver groupsets but this black group on white frame sure is sharp! Love it!

sd5782 

I, like others go for mostly period correct or upgrades from the period or from slightly afterwards. That brings us here with our Classic & Vintage obsessions. I did however restore a 1973 Super Sport to very near specs, as that was my first nice bike purchase in 1975, and I still have it. I couldn't find the proper bar tape yet, and like in 1975 I wasn't going to use the rear Huret even though I have several of them. The nostalgia almost overcomes me on the few rides I have taken on it.





Of course, this was easier to do since I already had my original well used and modified bike from way back in 1975. Three cheap Super Sports from the co-op allowed me the luxury to do this restoration and also to convert one to an upright which gets ridden the most. So, the answer is to get one that is sentimental and makes you remember, and modify the other.



Keep one stock and modify 1 or 2

Wildwood 

Yes and No.
Specifically: yes,yes,no,no

non-fixie 

I generally don't care much about originality when it comes to parts selection. There are two exceptions, as far as I'm concerned:

1. if the bike originally belonged to a famous champion, in which case I'd like to build it the way they rode it (which was probably a highly personal hodge-podge of parts). Check out Eddy's Italo-Franco Frankenbike.

If it were to be given a name, "Manufacture Alberto Juy Pietra Peugeot Auvergnoise" would sound about right:



2. if the parts were specifically spec'ed for the bike by the designer (as opposed to the bean counters or salesmen), such as with mrs non-fixie's Bridgestone Blouson. Super Record just wouldn't look right, IMO:



For my racing bikes I try to stay close to what an original owner might have had or wanted:



And for my touring bikes I use whatever I like, have available, works, or might be fun to try and see if it works:

squirtdad

Nope, but with the right bike I might consider it

current line up:

85 Team miyata...... 5805 105 group, so no where near original

84 team miyata. came to me non original, my first build was close to original, with original durace 7200 ex shifters, front and rear derailer, seat post, stem, wheels, 7400 53/39 crank and 7400 brakes and levers so in spirit it is now a Cino build with deore rear derailler, rx100 front derailer, a 105 triple (soon to be back to 7400 crank with a TA triplizer)

80/81 SR Semi pro Came to me close to original with bar end shifters but other than that full 600 arabesque. Now has the 600 arabesque front and rear derailer and down tube shifters and crank, but put a velo orange postino bar, tektro city brakes and tektro dual pivot s from my stash

JackJohn

Yes, I would try to respect as much as possible the original build provided you know it exactly and the bike is worth it. When not possible, too expensive or some modifications need to be done, at least I try to remain period and style correct. Of course there are cases in which exceptions and compromises can’t be avoided.

satbuilder 

Pretty much all the bikes I've built to date have components which would have been considered original equipment. Sometimes I do stray. The Motobecane Champion Team I put together a few years ago, I got a little carried away with tensioning the spokes on one of the Arc en Ciel rims and it taco'd on me. I found a set of the anodized rims, which weren't original to the bike at that time, and if I happen upon a nice set of originals, I'll replace them.
Comsumables, such as chains, bar tape, cables and cable housings, I don't worry about too much. For the chains, I usually try to stick with either Regina, or Everest, if I can find something affordable. Finding original equipment Campagnolo cable housings from the '70's, and the shift/brake cables, can get quite expensive, and I really don't care, most of the time. I don't plan on showing any of these, or taking them to a Concours event, I just do it for my own pleasure. The hunt for parts I consider fun, although seeing some of the excessively inflated pricing does make me laugh sometimes.

Classtime 

I think I have the most fun with C&V by tuning up and going for significant rides on catalog spec bikes. I'm cheap and not prone to restoring with the correct parts so I seek complete, neglected, but not abused bikes and try to use all the bits and pieces including cables, housing, bearings, pitted races, and even that ubiquitous pain in the ass Turbo saddle. It bugs me if the original seatpost is too short and I have gone on long rides with the saddle 10-15mm too low.

RustyJames 

100% agreement.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Dia-Comp brakes are often removed and chucked into the spares bin.