dedhed

Best to also bolt the tool into the BB so it doesn't slip and wreck the tool/cup interface. Some are tougher than others.

corbett79

I can’t get it with a breaker bar. Frustrated since I’ve bought the new components. On the drive side, I took a washer/gasket/cover off and can see the BB bearings. Another spacer on the square taper is holding back the bearings. Basically, I’m trying to take as much stuff over that I can, hoping it may help. Wish I could upload photos, but I don’t have ten posts. Such a dumb rule. I suppose I can start 10 dummy posts…

corbett79

DS

NDS

3alarmer 

.
...I'm not 100% certain, but it does appear from your pictures that you are having trouble keeping the BB cup removal tool engaged with the small teeth in that part, because there's nothing left to bolt to after your adventures with the angle grinder. I think, at this point, you might want to tap out the spindle and bearings . This ought to work, and will open a hole that you can use to now take a long bolt, some big fender washers, and a nut, and use those to bolt that removal tool in place. It looks like you still have a lock nut and cone still present on the non drive side, which need to come off. Then it should just slide up and out on the drives side.

Here is a pretty good video that shows how most of them come apart.


You might still have enough teeth in there that this will work, but use the acetone/ATF mixture to try to lubricate the threads of the piece from both sides, before you bolt it up.

That's what I would try at this point. The spindle and maybe the bearings will come out, giving you the hole you need for the bolt. The frame needs to be firmly set up in some sort of work stand, with the clamp close to the BB shell.

Sorry for my earlier entry (unedited), I don't know what I was thinking.

corbett79

Yes, having a tough time keeping the removal tool from slipping. I’ve tried taking that lock but off the NDS, but there isn’t a lot of the square taper left on the DS to grip onto with my vise grips to keep it from spinning. How exactly do you bolt the removal tool in place?

3alarmer 

...I don't know if vise grips have a long enough lever arm along the handles to get the lock nut off there. I have a bench vise, so stuff like this gets done there.

The bolting of the removal tool is pretty easy. There are probably some pictures of various setups in some threads here. In this case, you can't use the method where you use a metric threaded bolt of the smae size and threading as a crank arm fixing bolt (but slightly longer), in combination with some fender washers. That's the most common one. IN this situation, once you get the spindle out, you measure the length you need for a bolt by putting the BB tool in place with the teeth engaged, and stick something through the hole in the end of it, going all the way to the far side of the BB shell and out. remove the stick you used to measure, and add an inch or two, to allow for the nut and some fender washers on the far side, as well as one or two on the outside end of the tool. Then bolt it up.

To turn the tool, use either an adjustable wrench with a long handle, or preferably an open end or box end wrench with a long handle, on the hexagonal portion of the tool.

You will probably have to strike it with a hammer (or a deadblow mallet if you have one) a couple of times to knock it loose. Use a lot of the ATF/acetone mix on the threads.



This guy used a QR skewer, but I always use a bolt, because I know I'm gonna hit the wrench with a hammer, and I want some substance to the setup.
The big fender washers cover the large opening on the side of the BB, and the end of the tool, because it keeps the bolt more or less centered while you work.



Like this guy does in this link, but you can't bolt it into the spindle, because the end is gone.
So you need to open a space by removing the spindle, by taking off the lock nut and cone on the non drive side, so you can slide a bolt all the way through.

darkhorse75

You do realize that the DS cup is left hand threaded I hope.

corbett79

You do realize I am a Junior member for a reason…so, I need to be cranking clockwise instead of counterclockwise?

darkhorse75

Yep. Drive side bottom bracket is reverse threaded.

3alarmer 

...I believe the lock ring and cone on the drives side of the sealed unit, that you need to remove to pull the spindle, are also threaded onto the spindle with a LH thread.

corbett79

It’s off! Thanks for all the help. How do I select a new bottom bracket?



Bottom bracket

3alarmer 

...congratulations. Every crankset has a stated requirement for the length of the spindle, so you select the new crank first, than buy a new sealed unit in that length (or pretty close to it), in the proper width and threading for your BB shell. For yours, I think the BB shell is 68mm wide and threaded standard. So it should be readily available, once you you figure out the spindle length you need. If you install the cup thingies that hold the sealed cartridge in place using anti-seize, it makes it easier to remove next time around.

spelger

Been watching this thread. Congratulations, you got it out. Now go have a beer and consult the interwebs for cranks and bottom brackets.

corbett79

In fact I did have a beer tonight! The existing BB is about 3” wide, so i went with this BB. Let’s hope this works and I can start putting this bike back together with new components!

79pmooney

Have you selected your new crankset yet? Until you do you do not know that spindle length and taper type you need. (There are two different taper standards, ISO and JIS. You will probably be dealing only with JIS but it is good to know about the other and check both the crankset and bottom bracket.)

Buying the BB and spindle first could became a case of buying size 18 boots and finding someone with feet to fit. Yes, almost anything will fit on a long 122 spindle but will your front derailleur reach that far out? Will your chainrings line up with your cogs in back? If you ordered this BB already, you might want to call and see if you can stop it. If they're bike people they will understand that you need the BB first.

Edit: I see it's not an expensive BB. Might be perfect for your next project if not this one.
2nd edit" Welcome to BF! Ben

corbett79

This is the crankset that I purchased. All off Amazon, so returning is not a big deal if I have to.

Venturiano

You do deserve a beer after all that work. Cheers mate!

3alarmer 

...if you scroll down on the page where you ordered it, this is in the comments/reviews .

corbett79

Sounds perfect then! I’ll let y’all know how it turns out and will probably be asking questions about the chain and new rear derailleur!

3alarmer 

.
...because you are working on what appears to be an old mountain bike frame, you really should measure the exact width of the BB shell, before you order the spindle.
When they first came out, sealed units were often marked to fit both a 68 mm width standard road frame shell, or the wider mountain bike standard. Then, gradually, they started listing them as appropriate to fit one or the other.

If you plan on doing any more of this bicycle mechanical repair work, you can buy a plastic metric caliper that is adequate for occasional home use at Harbor Freight for about three dollars. It will save you a lot of guesswork.

corbett79

So I don’t have a lot of patience. I went ahead and put the new BB in that arrived this evening. It fits fine, but I’d like to see what you guys think about the spindle length after putting the new crankset on. Don’t mind my son in the background. 🤣

smd4

Spindle looks too long to me, at least from the NDS. I’m not a mountain biker so I’ll wait to hear from the more knowledgeable.

JohnDThompson 

The primary concern with NDS offset is chainstay clearance. Unless you have joint problems, further offset is unlikely to be an issue.

smd4

Sure, it’s still functional. Just long. Hard to see the DS.

dedhed

For putting the cart before the horse it looks like you did OK on spindle length and taper.
Crank calls for a 123mm JIS spindle.
Note as well the chainrings are riveted and not replaceable, so I hope you are satisfied with the gearing tooth counts.

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