Peugeot! ?
04-07-22, 01:00 AM
#26
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Original bottom bracket came out but it's filthy/dry and badly pitted. Hoping it's std thread. Will replace with a cartridge unit.
I'm really glad I got the advice about unthreading thederailer derailleur from the back. The simplex derailleur doesn't actually thread into the hanger, it just has a recessed nut that passes through it. The dropout is also marked simplex, but it has a stop, and a regular shimano derailer threads into it fine. Was I just forcing that? I do have the park tap I could run through it.
I'd like to replace the simplex derailleur because it has slop in a few places, it has to be about to break and the cage is extremely short, so might not even do 28t.
I found this Acera derailer which has some nice french-style plastic.
Gonna try to keep the shifters though, they're kinda cool, how will their pull ratio work with shimano (or suntour, or campy)? Is that an issue at all?
I'm really glad I got the advice about unthreading the
I'd like to replace the simplex derailleur because it has slop in a few places, it has to be about to break and the cage is extremely short, so might not even do 28t.
I found this Acera derailer which has some nice french-style plastic.
Gonna try to keep the shifters though, they're kinda cool, how will their pull ratio work with shimano (or suntour, or campy)? Is that an issue at all?
Shame about the post being stuck !
Also that rear mech does need replacing .
Looks like someone mangled it before you got to it .
The tab washer should not be separate from the shaft .
Will be interesting to know what thread that BB is .
If you want to stick with french bits send me a PM .
I probably have enough correct french bits to sort it .
I even think there is a stronglight crank set that would be appropriate.
Save the moto crank for a moto :-)
Happy to help where possible
04-08-22, 11:15 PM
#27
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I was wondering today how you got on .
Shame about the post being stuck !
Also that rear mech does need replacing .
Looks like someone mangled it before you got to it .
The tab washer should not be separate from the shaft .
Will be interesting to know what thread that BB is .
If you want to stick with french bits send me a PM .
I probably have enough correct french bits to sort it .
I even think there is a stronglight crank set that would be appropriate.
Save the moto crank for a moto :-)
Happy to help where possible
Shame about the post being stuck !
Also that rear mech does need replacing .
Looks like someone mangled it before you got to it .
The tab washer should not be separate from the shaft .
Will be interesting to know what thread that BB is .
If you want to stick with french bits send me a PM .
I probably have enough correct french bits to sort it .
I even think there is a stronglight crank set that would be appropriate.
Save the moto crank for a moto :-)
Happy to help where possible
04-08-22, 11:23 PM
#28
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Hoods don't quite fit. Not sure what to do here.
04-08-22, 11:25 PM
#29
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04-08-22, 11:38 PM
#30
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dunno whether to try and modify those hoods, how, or if they're just not fitted right, or if i should i save them for something they do fit better
04-09-22, 03:37 PM
#31
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04-09-22, 06:01 PM
#32
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Those fit better than they often do, I realize we like them to fit better but they don't always.
Looks like 1simplex will get you sorted.
04-09-22, 06:12 PM
#33
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I've encountered that a couple of times and trimmed a bit from underneath let the lever move freely without any issues.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
04-09-22, 07:04 PM
#34
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04-09-22, 07:06 PM
#35
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04-09-22, 07:21 PM
#36
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Reality is though I rotate through a lot of bikes on my daily ride so I usually no individual bike of mine even gets 500 miles a years.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
04-10-22, 12:26 AM
#37
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BB is English and the crank is meant to have a symmetrical spindle
Just need a wider one. Got my feeler gauge out. With a 115mm spindle there is 0.55mm of clearance. That's before the crank is pressed on with the bolt.
Just need a wider one. Got my feeler gauge out. With a 115mm spindle there is 0.55mm of clearance. That's before the crank is pressed on with the bolt.
04-16-22, 11:08 PM
#38
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Few more bits and bobs to sus but almost done
Hoods from 1simplexnut are perfect
thanks again
drivetrain works good. I quite like these simplex levers.
12-32 7spd sram cassette gives hill gears. Auckland is very hilly.
The cabling doesn't seem right... I'm trying to re-use the old stuff so length is a small problem.
I took the brake calipers apart and cleaned/greased all the pivots. They are better but the arms (stamped steel?) flex a lot. Also the calipers are hard to center. I might change them but they look cool, and i think the really stiff spring will work better with non-spinged brake levers, over softer more modern calipers?
And the clarks brake pads i got stripped out when I tightened them...
Pedals will be changed.
have to get a new cartridge bearing for the front hub and diy some kind of bearing puller/press for it.
Hoods from 1simplexnut are perfect
thanks again
drivetrain works good. I quite like these simplex levers.
12-32 7spd sram cassette gives hill gears. Auckland is very hilly.
The cabling doesn't seem right... I'm trying to re-use the old stuff so length is a small problem.
I took the brake calipers apart and cleaned/greased all the pivots. They are better but the arms (stamped steel?) flex a lot. Also the calipers are hard to center. I might change them but they look cool, and i think the really stiff spring will work better with non-spinged brake levers, over softer more modern calipers?
And the clarks brake pads i got stripped out when I tightened them...
Pedals will be changed.
have to get a new cartridge bearing for the front hub and diy some kind of bearing puller/press for it.
04-16-22, 11:57 PM
#39
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I'm going with it
swooping behind the bar would be more elegant but the cables aren't long enough
we can change it in future
swooping behind the bar would be more elegant but the cables aren't long enough
we can change it in future
04-17-22, 08:29 AM
#40
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I'm digging it! Keep sharing the process.
I have an irrational desire for getting another of these Peugeots from this era with the orang Chevrons. Just not sure which model would be the "best" to seek out.
I have an irrational desire for getting another of these Peugeots from this era with the orang Chevrons. Just not sure which model would be the "best" to seek out.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
04-17-22, 12:39 PM
#41
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Um, aren't the brake levers reversed? Seems like the overall distance lever-to-caliper should be the same, whether they course in front of the bars or behind. Also looks like coursing behind the bars, it should be a smoother course.
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04-17-22, 03:13 PM
#43
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Few more bits and bobs to sus but almost done
Hoods from 1simplexnut are perfect
thanks again
drivetrain works good. I quite like these simplex levers.
12-32 7spd sram cassette gives hill gears. Auckland is very hilly.
The cabling doesn't seem right... I'm trying to re-use the old stuff so length is a small problem.
I took the brake calipers apart and cleaned/greased all the pivots. They are better but the arms (stamped steel?) flex a lot. Also the calipers are hard to center. I might change them but they look cool, and i think the really stiff spring will work better with non-spinged brake levers, over softer more modern calipers?
And the clarks brake pads i got stripped out when I tightened them...
Pedals will be changed.
have to get a new cartridge bearing for the front hub and diy some kind of bearing puller/press for it.
Hoods from 1simplexnut are perfect
thanks again
drivetrain works good. I quite like these simplex levers.
12-32 7spd sram cassette gives hill gears. Auckland is very hilly.
The cabling doesn't seem right... I'm trying to re-use the old stuff so length is a small problem.
I took the brake calipers apart and cleaned/greased all the pivots. They are better but the arms (stamped steel?) flex a lot. Also the calipers are hard to center. I might change them but they look cool, and i think the really stiff spring will work better with non-spinged brake levers, over softer more modern calipers?
And the clarks brake pads i got stripped out when I tightened them...
Pedals will be changed.
have to get a new cartridge bearing for the front hub and diy some kind of bearing puller/press for it.
Are you sticking with the maillard CX pedals ?
If you are , and you need some clips let me know .
I have spare second hand ones in the stash .
Have fun
04-17-22, 03:24 PM
#44
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04-17-22, 03:59 PM
#45
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Perhaps I am mistaken but it looks like the QR levers on the brakes are "open" and should be "closed" when adjusting for final operation.
04-22-22, 08:12 PM
#46
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dunno about pedals yet
really more his call, gonna leave it to the end.
the current ones have a lot of play, i think he does have the cages/straps for em. I'll try to overhaul. I also have some MKS pedals we could use.
If it was me i'd just put some nylon pinned flats on... the bike already has its foot in that door
04-22-22, 08:12 PM
#47
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04-22-22, 08:17 PM
#48
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I think both ways kinda make sense, and don't care about what is 'conventional'.
to me main hand = main brake (right, front)
but then for dt shifters, right hand = shifting, left hand = braking, also makes sense.
And most front brakes cable better to the left lever. I have my main rider setup left hand = front brake.
but my main mtb setup right hand = front brake
somehow this does not confuse my brain switching between bikes
on this the front brake actually is designed to be setup with the right lever so thats the way. Most aren't though. Thats the magic of centerpulls or cantis. Very egalitarian.
to me main hand = main brake (right, front)
but then for dt shifters, right hand = shifting, left hand = braking, also makes sense.
And most front brakes cable better to the left lever. I have my main rider setup left hand = front brake.
but my main mtb setup right hand = front brake
somehow this does not confuse my brain switching between bikes
on this the front brake actually is designed to be setup with the right lever so thats the way. Most aren't though. Thats the magic of centerpulls or cantis. Very egalitarian.
04-23-22, 12:03 AM
#49
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05-18-22, 12:21 AM
#50
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maybe, probably just junk metal. Those do look the buisiness but im wary of old looking brake pads maybe thats silly. Anyway i sussed it for now.