When to buy a new wheel?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
When to buy a new wheel?
I've been learning to work on my old bike. I just replaced a broken spoke, and while overhauling the hub in preparation to truing the wheel, I find that the cone nuts need replacing. It's all teaching me to service different parts of the bike, but considering a cheap wheel is just over $50, when would you normally stop pouring time into an old wheel, and just buy a new one?
I guess the same question extends to the whole bike. This bike costed me <$400 years ago. Is there a point where a bike is considered totaled, and is cheaper to buy a new one?
I guess the same question extends to the whole bike. This bike costed me <$400 years ago. Is there a point where a bike is considered totaled, and is cheaper to buy a new one?
Last edited by gululok; 04-28-22 at 10:11 PM.
#2
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
It depends on the quality of the current parts. If the wheel has a decent hub and rim, new cones and nuts are a dirt cheap way to keep it running. $50 pre-built wheels are pretty much the lowest quality out there, so unless the current wheel is garbage, I'd keep it.
As for the bike itself, if the frame or fork is damaged or compromised, that would certainly warrant a new one. But if it's functioning to your satisfaction, I'd approach it on a part-by-part basis. You'd have to significantly upgrade a lot of components before it would be cheaper to buy a new bike.
As for the bike itself, if the frame or fork is damaged or compromised, that would certainly warrant a new one. But if it's functioning to your satisfaction, I'd approach it on a part-by-part basis. You'd have to significantly upgrade a lot of components before it would be cheaper to buy a new bike.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
Assuming the bike is not structurally compromised, there is a certain fun factor in repairing and replacing parts as needed. Yes, there is a point were a buying an entire bike is cheaper than replacing all the parts. But one advantage to keeping an old one and fixing it up is the valuable lessons you will learn with bike mechanics, and will give you confidence and knowledge in the future. For example, if something happened on a ride, you'd be able to assess the situation, then either deem it as "still okay to ride home" or "better fix it on the road now - I can do it", or "call a friend for a ride".
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SFBay
Posts: 2,334
Bikes: n, I would like n+1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 133 Times
in
108 Posts
I tend to live in the fix it camp, but it depends on the circumstances. If my 1980’s top of the line downtube shifters decide to hit the dust (as if) I’m not going to look for that NOS cherry or the newest equivalent because that’s not cost effective. On the other hand, since I have a good local bike coop (do you?), I know I can get a functional used pair from the parts bin for under $5.
The only time I’ll buy a new bike is when the cost of things I want to replace exceeds the price of a new one. When you’re doing your own labor that’s hard to do unless you have say an 80’s bike and want brifters and a threadless headset. Occasionally a screaming deal will come along to justify trading up, but not frequently unless you’re taking a large step/changing the type of bike.
The only time I’ll buy a new bike is when the cost of things I want to replace exceeds the price of a new one. When you’re doing your own labor that’s hard to do unless you have say an 80’s bike and want brifters and a threadless headset. Occasionally a screaming deal will come along to justify trading up, but not frequently unless you’re taking a large step/changing the type of bike.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,851
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6945 Post(s)
Liked 10,945 Times
in
4,677 Posts
To answer your initial question: after a wheel breaks a second spoke, I look for a new one.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,895
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2599 Post(s)
Liked 1,924 Times
in
1,208 Posts
Color me skeptical. Is a new $50 wheel going to be as good as what you've got now when you replace one (or a few) spokes?
As for when to replace the whole bike, that's largely a matter of personal preference. If you maintain your current bike well, you shouldn't run into the bow wave of components that all need to be replaced at once. Then it's a matter of saying, "I want a new bike and I'm ready to spend [fill in the price of the new bike you want] to get it."
As for when to replace the whole bike, that's largely a matter of personal preference. If you maintain your current bike well, you shouldn't run into the bow wave of components that all need to be replaced at once. Then it's a matter of saying, "I want a new bike and I'm ready to spend [fill in the price of the new bike you want] to get it."
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,139
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times
in
568 Posts
This seems to be truer by the day lately, right? It used to be you could by a pretty solid Trek or Specialized for fewer than 500 dollars, but even the most basic of models are well into the $600-800 range now. I've found that aftermarket component prices haven't moved the needle as much as new bike prices have, so you really can replace a lot of stuff today before it's less expensive to buy a new bike. Of course, you can certainly exceed the used bike value of your current ride with a lot of upgrade components, but it's hard to put a price on learning mechanics, huh?
#8
Newbie
I never buy a new wheel.
If bits wear out or break I replace them. It doesn't matter to me whether it's a spoke, hub, bearing whatever. It is all a great excuse to tear down and rebuild the wheel.
One set of hubs lasted ten rims until I moved to disc brakes, rendering them obsolete. I believe they are still in service with their new owner.
If bits wear out or break I replace them. It doesn't matter to me whether it's a spoke, hub, bearing whatever. It is all a great excuse to tear down and rebuild the wheel.
One set of hubs lasted ten rims until I moved to disc brakes, rendering them obsolete. I believe they are still in service with their new owner.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 957 Post(s)
Liked 1,619 Times
in
1,039 Posts
Often I look at all I have learned when evaluating the time spent on an old bike. Like how to remove seat posts, stems, cranks, bottom brackets and such. And the mistakes... Gee... Lets not mention the mistakes. I am even building wheels now, reluctantly at first, but now much more easier. Of course I couldn't make a living at it. And honestly I don't see how some bike shops do.
So... Time spent on resurrecting an old wheel set can be worth it even if ya don't use it. And a spare wheel set can be a real gem...
So... Time spent on resurrecting an old wheel set can be worth it even if ya don't use it. And a spare wheel set can be a real gem...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
Likes For zandoval:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18354 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
That kind of a statement doesn't mean much.
As others have mentioned, it is all in the details.
Repairing a $50 wheel may be a losing proposition. On the other hand, if it was a nice wheel to start with, it may be well worth rebuilding.
There may be reasons to upgrade. For example if you wish to change from a freewheel to a cassette (or visa-versa). Perhaps gearing changes which could impact other parts on the bike.
Also, look at all the spoke holes, especially on the rim, looking for damage near the holes.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,892
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4792 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times
in
2,548 Posts
I buy new bikes (actually just custom frames) when there is something I want to do that my current bikes do not do well. (My first ti custom to be the sweet riding ti bike that fits like a dream; something I've always wanted since I rode around the block on a Merlin in 1990. My second ti bike to be a pure road fix gear, not a winter/rain/city fix gear that could go anywhere and weighed 28 pounds. Fenders and U-lock.) Wheels - I've built my own the past 45 years except the pair on my first good bike and later, my race bike. Occasionally I'll see a wheel in a shop with a hub and rim I want. When I get time, the spokes come off and it gets rebuilt with my preferred spokes and pattern.
I love working on bikes. It's a joy. It's therapeutic. It (usually) saves me a bunch of money. And I love riding the results.
I love working on bikes. It's a joy. It's therapeutic. It (usually) saves me a bunch of money. And I love riding the results.
#12
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,641
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1939 Post(s)
Liked 1,463 Times
in
1,012 Posts