56cm Behringer Frame Appraisal
11-18-20, 10:17 PM
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56cm Behringer Frame Appraisal
Hi all, I bought a group of bikes and this gem was hidden in, under numerous coats of paint. I had to, sadly, get her soda blasted, to find out what I had. This is a Behringer frame, made by Cecil Behringer. Campy drop-outs, Cinelli bottom bracket. 56cm. I would love an appraisal on what I should ask for her. Will it be a better offering if I have her powder coated first? Unfortunately I cannot find Behringer decals. Thanks much for all your help,
everyone!
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11-19-20, 03:30 PM
#2
incazzare.
Very nice looking frame. I don't know about the value, so I will let others respond. Regarding paint / powdercoat, from my perspective it would be better to leave it as is and leave that up to the buyer. I can't imagine it would significantly increase the value, and might even decrease it.
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11-19-20, 03:48 PM
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Very nice looking frame. I don't know about the value, so I will let others respond. Regarding paint / powdercoat, from my perspective it would be better to leave it as is and leave that up to the buyer. I can't imagine it would significantly increase the value, and might even decrease it.
Last edited by Mattdiano; 11-20-20 at 10:19 AM. Reason: I'm GOOD, not god.
11-20-20, 09:08 AM
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Behringer Color
...out of curiosity, what color was it originally and what color were the decals?
11-20-20, 09:09 AM
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...local rider has one in red with gold lettering—classic Behringer look
11-20-20, 10:18 AM
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It was black when I bought it, but that was spray paint. And so thick I could not read the BB or anything, so no idea on the orig color or decals. I could not figure out what the frame was, that's the only reason I had it stripped.
11-20-20, 11:56 AM
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When you do the post in the for sale forum, you will want to specify whether you measure the bike 56 center to center or center to top and the spacing of the rear triangle (likely 126 OLD and not a big deal but good to point out).
11-20-20, 04:52 PM
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Great points! I would have remembered to specify where I took the 56cm from, but never would have thought of the spread, thanks much for that!!
11-21-20, 10:13 AM
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If you do end up keeping/painting it, SSSink (.com) lists graphics for Behringer and there are a couple of decal sellers on eBay who will do a custom job for you if you can send a pic. But I agree w. others...better off selling it unpainted. I’ve only ever seen monochrome paint jobs on the Behringers so wouldn’t be difficult to restore.
11-21-20, 01:36 PM
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Nice looking frame, I am surprised that "soda" was so abrasive, I have used in the past to restore cars but it always returned much smoother. 
I would let the new buyer do the paint as others have already suggested.
Best, Ben
I would let the new buyer do the paint as others have already suggested.
Best, Ben
11-21-20, 03:04 PM
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whew. i am glad i am not the only one who noticed this. it's been bugging me, especially the pitted brass surfaces (and the "blasted to brass" dropout adjusting screw cap). i have never had items that looked so rough after soda blasting, even "soft" metal parts like aluminum, magnesium, cast pot metal, etc. and i've soda blasted a lot of stuff myself, and it does not dimple the surface like that.
the destroyed duct tape also bothers me. that's indicative of rather high pressure blasting. i blast cast iron parts with pretty aggressive glass media, and i mask off areas with duct tape because it "deflects" the media, and it doesn't come back all obliterated like that.
i would ask the blaster what media they used to blast that frame (and maybe the air pressure if they have that kind of info). i'd also be cautious about using that blaster in the future.
example: this is a cast pot metal carburettor i soda blasted at about 70 psi (was disassembled for blasting):
the destroyed duct tape also bothers me. that's indicative of rather high pressure blasting. i blast cast iron parts with pretty aggressive glass media, and i mask off areas with duct tape because it "deflects" the media, and it doesn't come back all obliterated like that.
i would ask the blaster what media they used to blast that frame (and maybe the air pressure if they have that kind of info). i'd also be cautious about using that blaster in the future.
example: this is a cast pot metal carburettor i soda blasted at about 70 psi (was disassembled for blasting):
Best, Ben
11-21-20, 03:25 PM
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Why is the brake bridge threaded? Does a stud of some sort go in there to build the brake on or is it simply an illusion?
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11-22-20, 08:32 AM
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I have no idea! Maybe someone with some Behringer knowledge can tell us? This frame is brand new to me, but it was built up with Dura Ace when I bought it, and the brakes came off fine. You are correct though, the brake bridge is threaded on half of it. Weird.
11-22-20, 08:34 AM
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whew. i am glad i am not the only one who noticed this. it's been bugging me, especially the pitted brass surfaces (and the "blasted to brass" dropout adjusting screw cap). i have never had items that looked so rough after soda blasting, even "soft" metal parts like aluminum, magnesium, cast pot metal, etc. and i've soda blasted a lot of stuff myself, and it does not dimple the surface like that.
the destroyed duct tape also bothers me. that's indicative of rather high pressure blasting. i blast cast iron parts with pretty aggressive glass media, and i mask off areas with duct tape because it "deflects" the media, and it doesn't come back all obliterated like that.
i would ask the blaster what media they used to blast that frame (and maybe the air pressure if they have that kind of info). i'd also be cautious about using that blaster in the future.
example: this is a cast pot metal carburettor i soda blasted at about 70 psi (was disassembled for blasting):
the destroyed duct tape also bothers me. that's indicative of rather high pressure blasting. i blast cast iron parts with pretty aggressive glass media, and i mask off areas with duct tape because it "deflects" the media, and it doesn't come back all obliterated like that.
i would ask the blaster what media they used to blast that frame (and maybe the air pressure if they have that kind of info). i'd also be cautious about using that blaster in the future.
example: this is a cast pot metal carburettor i soda blasted at about 70 psi (was disassembled for blasting):
11-24-20, 03:31 PM
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She is on her way to her new home in, suitably, MN! She should be at her new home Saturday and it is my understanding that there will be a build log. Looking forward to it!
11-24-20, 06:03 PM
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...already sourcing the Behringer red 
11-30-20, 07:37 PM
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UPDATE on the Behringer (will keep it short as this is a values forum vs build forum)...
Mattdiano graciously sold and sent me the frame and I immediately torched off the cable stops on the downtube (following a tutorial on Bikeforums on how its done) and used the torch to soften the residual bronze which then wire brushed off. Nice way to do it. Pics show heat discoloration on frame but it actually never got very hot...so no haters or couch mechanic comments, please, thank you
. Took them off so i can run the frame clean as a fixie and use clamp on cable stops if i revert to gears. Did not change anything i couldn’t easily revert (cable guides, rear spacing and derailleur hanger). Sanded and degreased frame, thin coat of white base and then “Lumo Red” to seal the frame from rust while I waif for Behringer decals to arrive. I’m in debt to Mattdiano for what will be an enviable, classic ride.
Wet rags were a suggested heat sink...surperfluous in my opinion as I used a small tip kept the flame cool
Gently heated till you could see the remaining bronze soften, then brushed with soft stainless steel brush.
Bronze came off completely with Emery cloth but soda-blasted texture around it was hard to blend with so will “load” paint up a bit in those spots to cover.
White undercoat and red top coat—-can cure for a week waiting for decals to arrive and will then clear coat. Turned out to be a very, very bright red...old Cecil Behringer might not have approved
Mattdiano graciously sold and sent me the frame and I immediately torched off the cable stops on the downtube (following a tutorial on Bikeforums on how its done) and used the torch to soften the residual bronze which then wire brushed off. Nice way to do it. Pics show heat discoloration on frame but it actually never got very hot...so no haters or couch mechanic comments, please, thank you
. Took them off so i can run the frame clean as a fixie and use clamp on cable stops if i revert to gears. Did not change anything i couldn’t easily revert (cable guides, rear spacing and derailleur hanger). Sanded and degreased frame, thin coat of white base and then “Lumo Red” to seal the frame from rust while I waif for Behringer decals to arrive. I’m in debt to Mattdiano for what will be an enviable, classic ride.Wet rags were a suggested heat sink...surperfluous in my opinion as I used a small tip kept the flame cool
Gently heated till you could see the remaining bronze soften, then brushed with soft stainless steel brush.
Bronze came off completely with Emery cloth but soda-blasted texture around it was hard to blend with so will “load” paint up a bit in those spots to cover.
White undercoat and red top coat—-can cure for a week waiting for decals to arrive and will then clear coat. Turned out to be a very, very bright red...old Cecil Behringer might not have approved
11-30-20, 07:39 PM
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UPDATE on the Behringer (will keep it short as this is a values forum vs build forum)...
Mattdiano graciously sold and sent me the frame and I immediately torched off the cable stops on the downtube (following a tutorial on Bikeforums on how its done) and used the torch to soften the residual bronze which then wire brushed off. Nice way to do it. Pics show heat discoloration on frame but it actually never got very hot...so no haters or couch mechanic comments, please, thank you. Took them off so i can run the frame clean as a fixie and use clamp on cable stops if i revert to gears. Did not change anything i couldn’t easily revert (cable guides, rear spacing and derailleur hanger). Sanded and degreased frame, thin coat of white base and then “Lumo Red” to seal the frame from rust while I waif for Behringer decals to arrive. I’m in debt to Mattdiano for what will be an enviable, classic ride.
Wet rags were a suggested heat sink...surperfluous in my opinion as I used a small tip kept the flame cool
Gently heated till you could see the remaining bronze soften, then brushed with soft stainless steel brush.
Bronze came off completely with Emery cloth but soda-blasted texture around it was hard to blend with so will “load” paint up a bit in those spots to cover.
White undercoat and red top coat—-can cure for a week waiting for decals to arrive and will then clear coat. Turned out to be a very, very bright red...old Cecil Behringer might not have approved
Mattdiano graciously sold and sent me the frame and I immediately torched off the cable stops on the downtube (following a tutorial on Bikeforums on how its done) and used the torch to soften the residual bronze which then wire brushed off. Nice way to do it. Pics show heat discoloration on frame but it actually never got very hot...so no haters or couch mechanic comments, please, thank you
. Took them off so i can run the frame clean as a fixie and use clamp on cable stops if i revert to gears. Did not change anything i couldn’t easily revert (cable guides, rear spacing and derailleur hanger). Sanded and degreased frame, thin coat of white base and then “Lumo Red” to seal the frame from rust while I waif for Behringer decals to arrive. I’m in debt to Mattdiano for what will be an enviable, classic ride.Wet rags were a suggested heat sink...surperfluous in my opinion as I used a small tip kept the flame cool
Gently heated till you could see the remaining bronze soften, then brushed with soft stainless steel brush.
Bronze came off completely with Emery cloth but soda-blasted texture around it was hard to blend with so will “load” paint up a bit in those spots to cover.
White undercoat and red top coat—-can cure for a week waiting for decals to arrive and will then clear coat. Turned out to be a very, very bright red...old Cecil Behringer might not have approved
11-30-20, 07:43 PM
#20
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It is looking AWESOME!!
12-01-20, 02:38 PM
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Waiting for decals. Will give it another “red” coat in some spots (too thin) and then clear coat. Thanks to the forum for all the input, and thanks again to Mattdiano.
(Not the final wheelset—will build it up with Dura Ace track group.)
(Not the final wheelset—will build it up with Dura Ace track group.)
12-01-20, 03:46 PM
#22
incazzare.
To each their own, I guess.
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12-01-20, 04:03 PM
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Absolutely...who would want it to be any other way? “Conformity” is certainly never a word that springs to mind when reviewing the Bikeforum group.
Likes For Sonofamechanic:
12-02-20, 10:59 AM
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But did you reference the bottom bracket drop first?
12-02-20, 04:16 PM
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you mean using 770c instead (what did they call them again...27s) or the flat tires?
it was a 700c built frame...it looks old but Behringer built this in the 90s. And, to reiterate a point made earlier, these were just propping up the frame...final build after decals and clear coat will be a sturdy DA pista set up....it will look good...I’m almost sure of it...
it was a 700c built frame...it looks old but Behringer built this in the 90s. And, to reiterate a point made earlier, these were just propping up the frame...final build after decals and clear coat will be a sturdy DA pista set up....it will look good...I’m almost sure of it...