Electrolysis-Do You Plate?
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Electrolysis-Do You Plate?
We all know the benefits of using electrolysis to remove rust from vintage parts, but does anyone plate those parts with nickel or zinc once the rust is gone? And if so, any pointers or preferences for which metal to use for the plate? I thought copper clad nuts, bolts, spokes, etc would be kinda cool (strange). Seriously, I'm thinking of either replacing all the nuts and bolts on my bikes with stainless steel or nickel plating and polishing because everything rusts here. I have a couple of beautiful bikes that the allen part of the screws are filling up with rust. What say?
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I got a lifetime supply of stainless Allen bolts for cages, racks, etc. You can get Ti bolts for stems. I think car guys do Cadmium plating when they want something different.
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Cadmium plating is all but gone, exception being within the aviation industry. Zinc replaced it. Lots of chromate coloring options for zinc, including the iridescent yellow which looks cool.
I restore older motorcycles from the 1970's and 1980's and use a Casewell's "copy cad" zinc plating setup to clean up hardware and fasteners. It's a lot of fun and it makes a huge difference in protection and appearance of the final project.
I restore older motorcycles from the 1970's and 1980's and use a Casewell's "copy cad" zinc plating setup to clean up hardware and fasteners. It's a lot of fun and it makes a huge difference in protection and appearance of the final project.
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I use wood bleach to remove the rust without touching whatever coating remains, and then spray a clear coat on - but I am interested to know more about the plating options one can achieve at home.
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I'd go with the stainless (technically, corrosion-resistant) option in a high-rust area. Any flaw or porosity in Ni plating, including those ind uced by assembly, will expose the underlying material to rusting. Titanium? Meh.
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Copper plating will tarnish and discolor very quickly if exposed to weather. You would have to clear coat it to maintain its appearance but that wouldn't last very well on nuts and bolts. I also recommend stainless steel fasteners and agree Ti fasteners are too expensive to justify.
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Be aware that adding a plating on threaded fasteners increases their thickness and can, but not always, mess up the threads when screwing together. I'm thinking some threaded parts of a frame that might get stripped with home plated screws.
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Just replace the fasteners that are rusting. If the originals lasted this long, then how much longer and better must the new fasteners last?
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Copper plating will tarnish and discolor very quickly if exposed to weather. You would have to clear coat it to maintain its appearance but that wouldn't last very well on nuts and bolts. I also recommend stainless steel fasteners and agree Ti fasteners are too expensive to justify.
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That's the problem. The original screws were rusting within a month of being on the coast. These every morning sea mists are laden with salt and find a way to reach everything. I tried clear coat lacquer after removing all the rust to no avail. Didn't even last a week before the rust was coming through the lacquer. My stem bolts, brake springs, everything that isn't carbon is turning brown.
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That's the problem. The original screws were rusting within a month of being on the coast. These every morning sea mists are laden with salt and find a way to reach everything. I tried clear coat lacquer after removing all the rust to no avail. Didn't even last a week before the rust was coming through the lacquer. My stem bolts, brake springs, everything that isn't carbon is turning brown.
But you don't have to go marine. Just buy some of the zinc or cadmium coated stuff from a fastener supplier in your area, or even chrome plated if you want that look..... but not from the big box discount stores. Stainless Steel comes in all grades of alloy. Cheaper generally worse. I've worked with stainless plate that cost so much I thought it must be made from gold.
Salt air will be a constant battle. So until you loose your love for the sea view and move away, then you'll have to deal with it.
Personally, if I could get my wife to move to the coast, I wouldn't worry about rusty nuts and bolts on my bike at all. I just replace them as needed.
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On my boat that stayed in salt water constantly rust and corrosion was an issue for things that were not marine grade. Even the stainless steel worm clamps for hoses that we bought from the big box discount building supply store would rust and break in just a few years. The way more expensive stainless fasteners we bought at the marine supply houses always looked better longer.
But you don't have to go marine. Just buy some of the zinc or cadmium coated stuff from a fastener supplier in your area, or even chrome plated if you want that look..... but not from the big box discount stores. Stainless Steel comes in all grades of alloy. Cheaper generally worse. I've worked with stainless plate that cost so much I thought it must be made from gold.
Salt air will be a constant battle. So until you loose your love for the sea view and move away, then you'll have to deal with it.
Personally, if I could get my wife to move to the coast, I wouldn't worry about rusty nuts and bolts on my bike at all. I just replace them as needed.
But you don't have to go marine. Just buy some of the zinc or cadmium coated stuff from a fastener supplier in your area, or even chrome plated if you want that look..... but not from the big box discount stores. Stainless Steel comes in all grades of alloy. Cheaper generally worse. I've worked with stainless plate that cost so much I thought it must be made from gold.
Salt air will be a constant battle. So until you loose your love for the sea view and move away, then you'll have to deal with it.
Personally, if I could get my wife to move to the coast, I wouldn't worry about rusty nuts and bolts on my bike at all. I just replace them as needed.
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how does someone learn how to remove rust from bolts using electrolysis?
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It's very simple. All you need is a battery charger, some baking soda, a piece of steel rebar for an anode, and tap water. Lots of vids on Utube for simple setup. Plating is just a tad more touchy, but still a very easy process. It's also a fun science project if you have great grandkids.
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316 SS is the grade to go for, I believe
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