Buying a good used road bike
#51
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It was a decent general riding bike from the mid 70's and should give a nice ride and has rack bosses on the dropouts. 27" wheels with schraeder valves are NOT the same as 700c (the defacto standard usinf presta valves, for better road bikes) but tires and tubes are widely available in that size.
This would not be a bike worth 'upgrading', use as is and move on if more performance becomes desired.
It is a bicycle, well made, and prolly a bunch of fun to ride. About the same level bike that I started on in '65 (and after a year, upgraded to another bike... LOL!).
Ride On
Yuri
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#52
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the 35 inch quoted is 'standover' height to the toptube. My visual guess (and prolly correct) is that it's a 62 cm frame size - which easily covers your size needed for leg length and height - assuming your torso/leg proportions are mid-curve for a population your height. You can ask the owner to measure from the center of the Crank axle, along the seat tube, to the top of the seat tube, to where the seat post is inserted = frame size.
It was a decent general riding bike from the mid 70's and should give a nice ride and has rack bosses on the dropouts. 27" wheels with schraeder valves are NOT the same as 700c (the defacto standard usinf presta valves, for better road bikes) but tires and tubes are widely available in that size.
This would not be a bike worth 'upgrading', use as is and move on if more performance becomes desired.
It is a bicycle, well made, and prolly a bunch of fun to ride. About the same level bike that I started on in '65 (and after a year, upgraded to another bike... LOL!).
Ride On
Yuri
It was a decent general riding bike from the mid 70's and should give a nice ride and has rack bosses on the dropouts. 27" wheels with schraeder valves are NOT the same as 700c (the defacto standard usinf presta valves, for better road bikes) but tires and tubes are widely available in that size.
This would not be a bike worth 'upgrading', use as is and move on if more performance becomes desired.
It is a bicycle, well made, and prolly a bunch of fun to ride. About the same level bike that I started on in '65 (and after a year, upgraded to another bike... LOL!).
Ride On
Yuri
My Univega touring bike was much better than this one, and it does seem small to me. Even after having an accident with the Univega I kept making good use of it.
The positive on this one is that condition is ok, tires probably need to be trued. The guy had it in storage and did not ride it as it was too big.
Probably what I need to keep looking for is the right size, lighter, a quality large bike that someone is upgrading from.
#53
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Thanks for the overview. I drove the 3 plus hour round-trip, was not impressed by this one but decided the $100 would not be wasted as I could probably sell it for that.
My Univega touring bike was much better than this one, and it does seem small to me. Even after having an accident with the Univega I kept making good use of it.
The positive on this one is that condition is ok, tires probably need to be trued. The guy had it in storage and did not ride it as it was too big.
Probably what I need to keep looking for is the right size, lighter, a quality large bike that someone is upgrading from.
My Univega touring bike was much better than this one, and it does seem small to me. Even after having an accident with the Univega I kept making good use of it.
The positive on this one is that condition is ok, tires probably need to be trued. The guy had it in storage and did not ride it as it was too big.
Probably what I need to keep looking for is the right size, lighter, a quality large bike that someone is upgrading from.
It prolly would have sold for $50, 2.5 yrs ago. But in the current supply climate, used prices are incredibly high.
I don;t expect the supply issue to change over the next year.
You can ride, while looking for something better, and expect to get the $100 back in a year.
You might also want to ride 'newer' stuff, and get a feel for what you haven;t experienced yet.
Time on a bike always highlights the important functional things you'd like to improve.
I have quite a bit of old crappage which was Top O Da Line in it's day. I've kept them for sentimental reasons... not reality.
Rode one for most of last week. It was great, and almost as good as I remember it being.
But now very happy to be back on my Carbon Fiber Fliver again - heads above the older machines...
But Riding the Bike is still better than not... no matter the conditions or temps...
Ride On
Yuri
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#54
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LOL!, Yes, the bike is quite unimpressive. But as for quality, it will give reliable service and durability if maintained - more than one can say for many of the new Big Box bikes.
It prolly would have sold for $50, 2.5 yrs ago. But in the current supply climate, used prices are incredibly high.
I don;t expect the supply issue to change over the next year.
You can ride, while looking for something better, and expect to get the $100 back in a year.
You might also want to ride 'newer' stuff, and get a feel for what you haven;t experienced yet.
Time on a bike always highlights the important functional things you'd like to improve.
I have quite a bit of old crappage which was Top O Da Line in it's day. I've kept them for sentimental reasons... not reality.
Rode one for most of last week. It was great, and almost as good as I remember it being.
But now very happy to be back on my Carbon Fiber Fliver again - heads above the older machines...
But Riding the Bike is still better than not... no matter the conditions or temps...
Ride On
Yuri
It prolly would have sold for $50, 2.5 yrs ago. But in the current supply climate, used prices are incredibly high.
I don;t expect the supply issue to change over the next year.
You can ride, while looking for something better, and expect to get the $100 back in a year.
You might also want to ride 'newer' stuff, and get a feel for what you haven;t experienced yet.
Time on a bike always highlights the important functional things you'd like to improve.
I have quite a bit of old crappage which was Top O Da Line in it's day. I've kept them for sentimental reasons... not reality.
Rode one for most of last week. It was great, and almost as good as I remember it being.
But now very happy to be back on my Carbon Fiber Fliver again - heads above the older machines...
But Riding the Bike is still better than not... no matter the conditions or temps...
Ride On
Yuri
What's the story on Univega, which I was quite happy with and the bikes they were making in the 80s? Just phenomenal ease of use, fast and light.
Last edited by TLit; 05-22-22 at 06:13 PM.
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I rode the Motobecane Mirage today, not a bad bike. I'll try to run it by the town bike shop and see if they have any recommendations on basic tune up that I can probably do myself except for tire true-ing.
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Budgets get blown up really quickly on an impulse buy. If you can move the Motobecane for the $100 you paid, do it, If you can get $150, even better. It would be a good investment.
If you want a Univega, wait for the right one to show up.
John
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I stopped at a bike shop today that sells mainly Giant and Motobecane road bikes and he looked through the online inventory options and said that he didn't see much in my size. He said I might find something used.
On the old shifters I was generally quite content with the lever-based shifting. I did not micromanage my shifting, going for maximum torque, a middle one and then the least going up steep hills. I fail to see how having dozens of gears would be advantageous.
On the old shifters I was generally quite content with the lever-based shifting. I did not micromanage my shifting, going for maximum torque, a middle one and then the least going up steep hills. I fail to see how having dozens of gears would be advantageous.
I love being able to shift while climbing. That's a lot easier with brifters.
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My only advice is to stick with your original game plan. It might take a while, but you will find a bike that is better than “not bad”.
Budgets get blown up really quickly on an impulse buy. If you can move the Motobecane for the $100 you paid, do it, If you can get $150, even better. It would be a good investment.
If you want a Univega, wait for the right one to show up.
John
Budgets get blown up really quickly on an impulse buy. If you can move the Motobecane for the $100 you paid, do it, If you can get $150, even better. It would be a good investment.
If you want a Univega, wait for the right one to show up.
John
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Don't forget, the sizes of bikes you're looking for are naturally going to be heavier than smaller sizes.
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Imagine the stupid stuff I WON'T admit!
When I worked for a bike shop, we actually had an adult tricycle to run errands with (toilet paper, hand towels, etc.), but nice try. I might have FOMO for recumbents though, but figure I might get a chance when the years take their toll on my back.
When I worked for a bike shop, we actually had an adult tricycle to run errands with (toilet paper, hand towels, etc.), but nice try. I might have FOMO for recumbents though, but figure I might get a chance when the years take their toll on my back.
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I bought a Univega at a tag sale around 20 years ago; it was too small but for some reason I never thought of that; just raised the seat. I had my proper size Univega in storage and for some reason threw that out after getting a high estimate and kept the smaller one until it could no longer be repaired by me again too much to fix and gave it to the local shop.
Last edited by TLit; 05-23-22 at 04:48 PM.
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If you are relatively satisfied with your cycling so far and don't need to go farther and longer, then no, there isn't anything special about the new stuff.
I can ride my old '78 Raleigh with six speeds on the rear just about as well on a 22 mile ride around here as I can my more modern Tarmac. The difference only appears when I'm trying to get that last fraction of a mph more average speed or ride for much longer periods at a time at a high effort.
But if you like riding relaxed and not so high effort, you probably won't see much except the novelty of more speeds on the rear. And maybe a few pounds less bike.
That being said, I seldom ride the Raleigh. The Tarmac is just so much more fun to ride because the less weight makes hills disappear and not be an issue for me. More speeds on the rear give me more choice for cadence selection to give me the power output I feel like I can maintain longer without tiring.
I can ride my old '78 Raleigh with six speeds on the rear just about as well on a 22 mile ride around here as I can my more modern Tarmac. The difference only appears when I'm trying to get that last fraction of a mph more average speed or ride for much longer periods at a time at a high effort.
But if you like riding relaxed and not so high effort, you probably won't see much except the novelty of more speeds on the rear. And maybe a few pounds less bike.
That being said, I seldom ride the Raleigh. The Tarmac is just so much more fun to ride because the less weight makes hills disappear and not be an issue for me. More speeds on the rear give me more choice for cadence selection to give me the power output I feel like I can maintain longer without tiring.
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My 1978 Raleigh Competition G.S. is 23.5 lbs (≈10.7 kg). The 2020 Tarmac Disc Comp Ultegra Di2 is 17.5 (≈7.9 kg) both with a small seat bag with tube, inflator, CO2 and some misc hex keys. No bottles. IIRC and probably weight accuracy is plus or minus ½ lb. I don't really obsess over knowing weight to the tiniest gram. It's just for rough comparison.
Will that do?
Will that do?
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My 1978 Raleigh Competition G.S. is 23.5 lbs (≈10.7 kg). The 2020 Tarmac Disc Comp Ultegra Di2 is 17.5 (≈7.9 kg) both with a small seat bag with tube, inflator, CO2 and some misc hex keys. No bottles. IIRC and probably weight accuracy is plus or minus ½ lb. I don't really obsess over knowing weight to the tiniest gram. It's just for rough comparison.
Will that do?
Will that do?
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Weight pretty much only matters for times you are accelerating or climbing up hills. More weight slower accelerations. More weight more effort to climbs hills. If your hills are miles of steady climbing, it becomes apparent real quick what a lighter bicycle does for you. If you only have rolling terrain with 20 to 40 feet of elevation change, you might not notice the difference quite as quick. But you will notice that at the end of a longer ride that you have more energy left.
If you are a cyclist that likes to ride hard and fast, you'll likely notice the differences quicker than a those that are just out for a leisurely enjoyable ride.
The effects of traveling with weight are cumulative, so for longer rides the benefits of less weight will be big, just like being aero pays large benefits on longer rides.
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Trek 1000 (aluminium alas) in 61cm pick up in Beacon NY @300 USD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20394751543...oAAOSw-NRicwXz
Approximately 90 minutes drive from Southern CT University
I am not keen on aluminium myself but I like integrated brifters, and you will be unlikely to get steel or carbon with brifters within your budget. You may be able to hold out for a aluminium/carbon bike, as I did recently, but if you put a long carbon seat post and long carbon stem on this bike (I think you will need long ones to make it your size) then they will flex and reduce road vibration.
I sent a message to the ebay seller to ask the height of the rider. The seller responded 6' 3" with 30" inseam. The stem is already pretty long but you can raise the saddle a bit, with the right seat post 2 more inches (though you probably only need one). The longest stems are generally 150mm. It may have a 150mm on it already. My guess is its a 140mm. I am not sure how long and low you like to ride but if you were to flip that stem so that it slopes down it would have the effect of making the reach a couple of inches longer.
Entry level road bike with brifters
I have been able to purchase full carbon with brifters within your budget by waiting but with the added restriction on frame size, you'd be waiting a long time. If you are happy with gear change on the frame, then I would recommend a steel bike such as those below (which have the gear shifters at the top of the steerer tube).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26442360513...gAAOSwQ8ZgCxxP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25478046018...QAAOSwwrRh14mo
If this seller could be persuaded to ship from California then it would be my choice but it (as the others) may be too small. Did find out the size of frame you need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29450497710...YAAOSw3VlhfCPa
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20394751543...oAAOSw-NRicwXz
Approximately 90 minutes drive from Southern CT University
I am not keen on aluminium myself but I like integrated brifters, and you will be unlikely to get steel or carbon with brifters within your budget. You may be able to hold out for a aluminium/carbon bike, as I did recently, but if you put a long carbon seat post and long carbon stem on this bike (I think you will need long ones to make it your size) then they will flex and reduce road vibration.
I sent a message to the ebay seller to ask the height of the rider. The seller responded 6' 3" with 30" inseam. The stem is already pretty long but you can raise the saddle a bit, with the right seat post 2 more inches (though you probably only need one). The longest stems are generally 150mm. It may have a 150mm on it already. My guess is its a 140mm. I am not sure how long and low you like to ride but if you were to flip that stem so that it slopes down it would have the effect of making the reach a couple of inches longer.
Entry level road bike with brifters
I have been able to purchase full carbon with brifters within your budget by waiting but with the added restriction on frame size, you'd be waiting a long time. If you are happy with gear change on the frame, then I would recommend a steel bike such as those below (which have the gear shifters at the top of the steerer tube).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26442360513...gAAOSwQ8ZgCxxP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25478046018...QAAOSwwrRh14mo
If this seller could be persuaded to ship from California then it would be my choice but it (as the others) may be too small. Did find out the size of frame you need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29450497710...YAAOSw3VlhfCPa
Last edited by timtak; 05-29-22 at 02:34 AM. Reason: price and note about aluminum frames
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#67
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I bought two Fuji road bikes last fall for a total of $80. I am riding one that is my size and giving the other to a friend who it fits well. Both bikes are close to fifty years old, and barring a catastrophe will last another fifty or more. My two other road bikes cost ten and three dollars and should also be good for many decades of riding into the future. Just buy any cheap bike that fits you and ride it. If it is in good shape and you are a good mechanic it will last you forever. Pretty much all bikes made before twenty or so years ago were very good quality, just stay away from old bikes that were high-end when new and they usually have very thin steel frames which can rust through or dent or crack much more easily than bikes with frames of straight-wall tubing. The most reliable bikes and cheapest to maintain are the older bikes that were low to mid price-range when new.
#68
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Trek 1000 (aluminium alas) in 61cm pick up in Beacon NY @300 USD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20394751543...oAAOSw-NRicwXz
Approximately 90 minutes drive from Southern CT University
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Beac...41.3317662!3e0
I am not keen on aluminium myself but I like integrated brifters, and you will be unlikely to get steel or carbon with brifters within your budget. You may be able to hold out for a aluminium/carbon bike, as I did recently, but if you put a long carbon seat post and long carbon stem on this bike (I think you will need long ones to make it your size) then they will flex and reduce road vibration.
I sent a message to the ebay seller to ask the height of the rider. The seller responded 6' 3" with 30" inseam. The stem is already pretty long but you can raise the saddle a bit, with the right seat post 2 more inches (though you probably only need one). The longest stems are generally 150mm. It may have a 150mm on it already. My guess is its a 140mm. I am not sure how long and low you like to ride but if you were to flip that stem so that it slopes down it would have the effect of making the reach a couple of inches longer.
Entry level road bike with brifters
I have been able to purchase full carbon with brifters within your budget by waiting but with the added restriction on frame size, you'd be waiting a long time. If you are happy with gear change on the frame, then I would recommend a steel bike such as those below (which have the gear shifters at the top of the steerer tube).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26442360513...gAAOSwQ8ZgCxxP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25478046018...QAAOSwwrRh14mo
If this seller could be persuaded to ship from California then it would be my choice but it (as the others) may be too small. Did find out the size of frame you need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29450497710...YAAOSw3VlhfCPa
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20394751543...oAAOSw-NRicwXz
Approximately 90 minutes drive from Southern CT University
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Beac...41.3317662!3e0
I am not keen on aluminium myself but I like integrated brifters, and you will be unlikely to get steel or carbon with brifters within your budget. You may be able to hold out for a aluminium/carbon bike, as I did recently, but if you put a long carbon seat post and long carbon stem on this bike (I think you will need long ones to make it your size) then they will flex and reduce road vibration.
I sent a message to the ebay seller to ask the height of the rider. The seller responded 6' 3" with 30" inseam. The stem is already pretty long but you can raise the saddle a bit, with the right seat post 2 more inches (though you probably only need one). The longest stems are generally 150mm. It may have a 150mm on it already. My guess is its a 140mm. I am not sure how long and low you like to ride but if you were to flip that stem so that it slopes down it would have the effect of making the reach a couple of inches longer.
Entry level road bike with brifters
I have been able to purchase full carbon with brifters within your budget by waiting but with the added restriction on frame size, you'd be waiting a long time. If you are happy with gear change on the frame, then I would recommend a steel bike such as those below (which have the gear shifters at the top of the steerer tube).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26442360513...gAAOSwQ8ZgCxxP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25478046018...QAAOSwwrRh14mo
If this seller could be persuaded to ship from California then it would be my choice but it (as the others) may be too small. Did find out the size of frame you need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29450497710...YAAOSw3VlhfCPa
#69
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And given the amount of seat post extension in the pic, the setup is clearly NOT for someone with a 32 cycling inseam, he might use 32 pants, but they'd be 'high water'. I don;t forsee needing much more extension than that for a bit longer cycling inseam... Seatpost will likely still have enough inside to accommodate. Stem is already quite long, very close to a 140... A 27 degree 140 stem would most likely be stratospheric enough for a higher bar stack.
It certainly is a nice bike, and would be a good buy at $300 even at more 'normal' used bike prices of 3/4 yrs ago.
...given its in reasonable running condition - and having good Brifters and good wheels, is quite a step up. For Downtube shifter riders , they are often a revelation.
Certainly worth strong consideration...
Ride On
Yuri
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Thanks, I see how it would be a step up; I can just imagine the increased torque or ease of climbing with lesser weight.
Also have a hankering for mid-80s Univegas, I was always happy with my early 1980 or so bike that I got so much mileage out of. One objective is to lose some weight, I do a lot of physical work together with plenty of exercise.
Also have a hankering for mid-80s Univegas, I was always happy with my early 1980 or so bike that I got so much mileage out of. One objective is to lose some weight, I do a lot of physical work together with plenty of exercise.
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Thanks, I see how it would be a step up; I can just imagine the increased torque or ease of climbing with lesser weight.
Also have a hankering for mid-80s Univegas, I was always happy with my early 1980 or so bike that I got so much mileage out of. One objective is to lose some weight, I do a lot of physical work together with plenty of exercise.
Also have a hankering for mid-80s Univegas, I was always happy with my early 1980 or so bike that I got so much mileage out of. One objective is to lose some weight, I do a lot of physical work together with plenty of exercise.
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Good point. Actually I am around 250# with the 6 6" height. So other considerations are probably more important than lightness. I am used to hard work, lifting 150-200# and more in tree work. But am looking to lose weight that has somehow creeped up on me.
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I would say you can't be too far from an ideal weight for your height. Schwinn made some 27" tall "World" or "World Sport" road bikes back in the late 70s, early 80s which were too tall for me, I had to put the seat all the way down on the one I had, but they may be perfect for you. Even at my about 6' 2.5" current height I think a 25" frame is a bit too tall for me, but unfortunately most bike manufacturers did not make many different sizes of frames, usually just small, medium and large{25") sizes, so I usually end up with 25" bikes. I have a lot of experience in metal-fab, so am slowly working on my own custom "racing" frame that will have a seat-tube of a 25" bike, but the steering-head tube length of a smaller bike.
#74
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I would say you can't be too far from an ideal weight for your height. Schwinn made some 27" tall "World" or "World Sport" road bikes back in the late 70s, early 80s which were too tall for me, I had to put the seat all the way down on the one I had, but they may be perfect for you. Even at my about 6' 2.5" current height I think a 25" frame is a bit too tall for me, but unfortunately most bike manufacturers did not make many different sizes of frames, usually just small, medium and large{25") sizes, so I usually end up with 25" bikes. I have a lot of experience in metal-fab, so am slowly working on my own custom "racing" frame that will have a seat-tube of a 25" bike, but the steering-head tube length of a smaller bike.
I avoid junk food, drink a lot of organic teas and healthy herbs. I used to be heavily into juicing vegetables including alfalfa/radish sprouts, but now seem to maintain health with a healthy whole food diet. No physical complaints except for foot pain due to the weight. I went off beer and 80% quality beef. I probably consume too much in full fat quality milk products
I was finding the end of day hiking on rugged terrain 6-7 miles together with work was enough to maintain muscle tone, etc.. I was not focusing on cutting out calories especially evening meals which is essential.
The good thing about biking is it is easier on the feet and when you gain weight over than the feet's ability to operate, it is imperative to lose weight.
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Yes, tall people have it tough in this world, fitting into clothes, shoes, automobiles etc.. And they have to stay on top of their health much more than shorter people do as they are at higher risk of a lot of problems that come with age. I quit drinking alcohol regularly after the age of 35 because I WAY overdid it, and I have cut almost all red meat out too for a long time, mostly because the majority of food that is sold in the USA is full of chemicals, genetically modified, Monsanto crap etc.. Even if you go hunting and shoot a deer chances are it has been feasting on Monsanto GMO corn and Roundup chemicals all it's life, so no-thanks. I am lucky my feet stopped at size 13. You sound like you are on all the right tracks. I do have one of those large Schwinn World frames/forks hanging in my garden shed, I was saving it just in case I needed it's extra long frame tubes for some project, but if you can't find one in your area and want one, you can swing by and grab it someday. I am in NorthWest Pennsylvania though. I did drive to Boston one day, slept in a garage on a cot, then back home to buy an old Norton motorcycle that was in a basket though, and even further when I was younger for some pretty stupid reasons.....