Three cool scores, three stuck seatposts...
#1
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Three cool scores, three stuck seatposts...
I picked up a centurion iron man, trek 6xx from way back and a Peugeot made from 501 Reynolds. Total price was 25.00. however they had been in the weather a long time. Rusted chains et al. I figure for components alone I scored but would love some advice. All the stems came out and I do have a seatpost tube reamer. Is there any chance in hades of removing these by drilling and reaming?
Iron man
Peugeot
Trek
Iron man
Peugeot
Trek
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That Trek shouldn't be hard. Just get some penetrating oil in where the flutes are. Those typically come out without too much hassle. The slammed posts on the other hand look like a total pain. It couldn't hurt to pull the bottom bracket out, fill the seat tube with PB Blaster, and let it sit for a week.
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That Trek shouldn't be hard. Just get some penetrating oil in where the flutes are. Those typically come out without too much hassle. The slammed posts on the other hand look like a total pain. It couldn't hurt to pull the bottom bracket out, fill the seat tube with PB Blaster, and let it sit for a week.
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I recently used Corrosion Block to help free a stuck aluminum alloy seatpost from an aluminum Cannondale - it still required clamping the SR Laprade seatpost top in a bench vise and I gladly paid the strapping young LBS owner $20 to muscle it loose.
I used the same product to free the stuck stem in my Sirrus; that I was able to muscle free.
I recently also used a mix of Corrosion Block and Liquid Wrench over several days to free another stuck seatpost. That one required a rubber mallet to the saddle nose to break it free so it would start turning.
So long as the seatpost heads are an integral part of the post the bench vise works wonders.
I used the same product to free the stuck stem in my Sirrus; that I was able to muscle free.
I recently also used a mix of Corrosion Block and Liquid Wrench over several days to free another stuck seatpost. That one required a rubber mallet to the saddle nose to break it free so it would start turning.
So long as the seatpost heads are an integral part of the post the bench vise works wonders.
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Patience will pay dividends here. Don't be hasty...
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#6
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Ohh nice score i think all 3 are worth saving! Ive used PB-Blaster before and every few days went down and sprayed more in from the bottom bracket side, after doing that for a week or so.. it was a mess of PB-Blaster but they came out!
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Ty everyone pb blaster is on the job. The iron man is first as my son wants it.
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The last one I did pb blaster soaking, kept a trashed seat on, laid the front triangle on a top-step with the rear triangle hanging over the edge, I then stepped on the seat while grabbing the frame's top tube near the seat cluster. The saddle rotated with a snap, from there it riggled out with a few pulls. The post is obliterated and near ovalized from the corrosion, the steel looks good.
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^^^^I agree with above, take your time...what to you have to lose (25.00 for the lot).
I might also suggest removing the seats after the long soaking and if possible tap them down to try to break the bond.
I know it sounds counter to what many believe but tapping is easier than twisting to break a stubborn seat post free....It has work for me.
Good luck, Ben
How about some pics of the entire bikes?
I might also suggest removing the seats after the long soaking and if possible tap them down to try to break the bond.
I know it sounds counter to what many believe but tapping is easier than twisting to break a stubborn seat post free....It has work for me.
Good luck, Ben
How about some pics of the entire bikes?
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#10
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After soaking in penetrant take the clamp hardware off the seatposts until it looks like a little hockey stick. Find a sewer grate or a very well mounted vise and put the seatpost head into one of the slots. Twist using the frame as leverage.
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I have converted to a mix of acetone and atf to break those posts free. Let it soak in the seat tube upside down for a day or two and they will break loose. Smiles, MH
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#12
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sorry the lighting sucks and I didn't take before pics. The livery makes me think the iron man is 85-86. The trek serial number is very early 6xx the Peugeot I don't know about.
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#13
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Great scores 52!. PB Blaster is good stuff. Kroil puts it to shame: https://www.kroil.com/
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The Peugeot is a 1984 PGN. A mid level bike with the then new Reynolds 501 tubing, just below the PSV.
Only year that they used that goofy jamb bolt seatpost anchor, instead of a conventional clamp.
They switched back to a conventional clamp or an expanding quill seatpost on their bikes, the next year.
Just make sure that bolt is backed off or removed when you try to take off the seatpost.
You can also used the bolt threaded boss opening on the seat tube to blast the post and tube interior with penetrant.
BTW, the seatpost is French, by JPR. Try to save it, if possible, as it is a good one. Light, with very fine adjustability. Looks pretty good too.
Only year that they used that goofy jamb bolt seatpost anchor, instead of a conventional clamp.
They switched back to a conventional clamp or an expanding quill seatpost on their bikes, the next year.
Just make sure that bolt is backed off or removed when you try to take off the seatpost.
You can also used the bolt threaded boss opening on the seat tube to blast the post and tube interior with penetrant.
BTW, the seatpost is French, by JPR. Try to save it, if possible, as it is a good one. Light, with very fine adjustability. Looks pretty good too.
Last edited by Chombi1; 10-05-21 at 05:44 PM.
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Wow, nice scores. Any Trek with a triple. Weren’t those Suntour shifters perhaps 1984? The Ironman has the color scheme of my 85. Tange#1 also. Nice
Last edited by sd5782; 10-05-21 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Correction
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But do wear gloves with the 50/50 acetone / atf mix… that stuff is the most toxic/tough on skin…
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I put the trek in my vice and wala!
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The chainrings on that Trek kinda look like a half step plus granny. Congrats on extracting one seatpost already!
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