guelphite

Just to let you all know that I sold my 1986 Miyata 1000.

Weird though, even though this bike is an engineered classic, I’ve had young people asking for wider tires than 32mm, smaller front cranks and larger freewheel.
I tried to explain the wider the tire, the increased road resistance. The young man told me that it “was my opinion”. Not opinion but physics.
He started adding up the cost to update the upgrades and I advised him to get a ‘modern’ bike.
Modern isn’t necessarily better.
Anyways good talking to you all.
Happy Trails.

cycledog1

the old addage that smaller/thinner 23/25/28mm w tires are faster than wider tires is a falacy, and its been proven countless times in the last 5 yrs by Jan Heine and a few others. there's lots of documentation, Bicycle Quarterly and Road Bike Action mags both endorse bigger tires and wider rims for the comfort and no loss of speed.

these miyata 1000's generally take up to 35mm wide and ride great with that width, but 32mm works really well.

the larger cassette/compact chainrings/compact crank work well, especially when they are 46-30 and combined with bar end shifters. it thourghly "modernizes the 1000 and works exceptionally well. here's one I'm selling in my region, complete with compact bar and VO detachable faceplate stem, Phil wood rebuilt wheels with velocity rims. only thing not updated is the cassette, to be done by the new owner to their spec

balto charlie

Hey all, Miyata 1000 owner here. Has anyone here used a Revelate Ripio frame bag on their 1000? Revelate has a template that one can print out and I am on the verge of doing so BUT would be nice to hear from someone that uses a bag like this. How does it fit and what size bike and bag did you use. My bike is a 58

Thanks

MrBeebs

Would anyone be offended if I uploaded my Miyata with brifters?

belacqua

On the contrary; I would be psyched.

sallen73

I finally (finally!) got my Miyata 1000 set up for Gravel Worlds and rode it this morning! After many grand ideas (most of which didn't work out) I ended up staying pretty close to stock; visually the biggest changes are switching to mustache bars and the Shimano Acera rear derailleur.
I need to tweak the saddle height, I'm not convinced about the full toe clips (and I haven't even installed the straps yet!), and I'm already thinking about moving the brake levers inboard, but my (admittedly) short ride this morning gave me hope that I will be able to ride her 150 miles in late August Nebraska heat.

MrBeebs

Unfortunately I need to hit 10 messages before I can post an image or link to external site. Will just reply to other bikes in the mean time

MrBeebs

Really fascinated by the mustache bar setup. Never seen a bike like this before

Kind of seems like a flat bar bike but the bar ends are at least usable. Or is there more to it than that?

MrBeebs

That's super clean. If I was to go back to bar end, the setup wouldn't be too far off this one.

100% agree with the tyres. I ended up going with Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 35mm.

I found 32-35mm was my sweet spot for comfort to responsiveness.
38mm just felt a bit unresponsive when wanting quick turns / boaty (could just be in my mind) and 28mm still felt too many bumps.

I wish more modern bikes took 32-35mm with rim brakes, but there's only a few I've seen.
As much as I do think disc brakes are better performance wise, it's hard to pass up how cheap + easy it is to work on modern rim brakes of all varieties.

MrBeebs

Not 100% I agree that wider tire = increased road resistance. There's a lot more influencing factors with regards to tyre pressure.

Generally people do lower the tyre pressure with wider tyres but you dont have to.

It reminds me of Bicycles Rolling Resistance test of the Marathon GP5000's at different sizes & tyre pressures.

"A bigger road bike tire (at least the Continental GP 4000 and GP 5000) provides a lower rolling resistance at the same air pressure. You do have to realize that at the same air pressure, a bigger tire will provide a less comfortable ride.At the 15% tire drop air pressures, which are very close to the recommended air pressures for a given size, the tables are turned and a bigger road bike tire will have a higher rolling resistance. The higher rolling resistance of the bigger tire is because it provides more comfort at the 15% tire drop air pressure."

cycledog1

I agree on the tires, I'm sitting at 35's with both my disc bikes.

On brakes, thats somewhat true for the maintenance, only because thats what you and I grew up with. I'm learning now to work with my disc brakes and once you get it, its like derailleurs and and chain lengths, you know the process and just do it. its easy.

I like the simplicy of my rim brake bikes, many of them --------- love riding them, they are only 25mm tires on all but the b stone x0-1, but they stop fast and hard in the dry.

MrBeebs

What tyres did you go with for 35mm?

I've got some RH tyres but didn't feel it was worth the extra price. I understand they don't have the advantage of mass production but I'm also not a super picky rider.

Yeah, I partially agree with you regarding discs. It's just pads are like $10 vs $25 (AUD here) + only need to worry about tightening a cable.
Don't need to worry about new disc or bleeding a system.
I also get a lot less brake noise.

The biggest advantages to disc to me are:
- Easy to go between 650b and 700c
- All weather conditions are no problem
- Wheels being slightly out of alignment less of a concern

Anyway, not long till I can upload a photo of my bike

Going to move it from a 2x11 to a 1x10 setup shortly too! Will get photos of both

cycledog1

MrBeebs- I have 35mm in R Herse as well as what would now be Donnelly, but were Clement. as far as whether or not they are worth the price, it depends on what you are wanting out of them. puncture resistance on the RH is average, the Donnelly's are better at punctures, not as light or fast. tradeoff i guess.

yes, rim brakes will always be easier and work great in the dry. for much bigger tyres, however, disc is the only way --------- 38mm and up. below that, cantis work great if you have Pauls, over and above all others.

the miyata 1000 was sold last week, keeping my rebuilt xo-1. these pauls stop fast and feel great. the are the ultimate rim brakes. the tires btw on this bike are panaracer pasela's, 26"x38mm,

they make them in 700c x 35mm


they may be more durable and as fast as the others, and go on easy.

MrBeebs

This is my do it all. I use it to commute and to de-stress. i.e. No HRM, no Strava, no music.

Started life with original spec parts on it but they were in poor condition. Loved how it rode though and the fact I could fit up to 38mm tyres onto it with standard width hubs.

It's been through a few evolutions but I'll list what I've got here.

- 105 11sp brifters + 34-50T crankset + 11-32T cassette + RD (loving the almost 1:1 ratio for uphills with a backpack)
- C17 saddle (much prefer it over B17, and its all weather)
- DT Swiss wheels (great price, good weight, decent aero, silent. Will only buy these from now on)
- 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Supreme (great balance of price, performance and puncture resistance)
- Thomson seat post (over priced, seems okay, wouldn't do again)
- Shimano CX50 brakes (so easy to setup, highly recommend to everyone for their Miyata 1000's with the shorter post widths)
- Catalyst Evo pedals (almost as good as clipless, I ruptured my achilles so prefer riding with flat sole shoes)
- Ritcheys Ergomax bars (pretty good and would recommend for any road bike)
- Velo Orange stem (best looking one with 31.8mm. Happy for other recommendations)

Next change and photos will be after conversion to 1x 42T + 11-48T Microshift setup with Venturemax bars.

billnuke1 

Love these tires on this bicycle...has splits between the white wall and the tread...rubber is kinda hard and slippery feeling...

Last pair of Hardshells! 700/32c..l

They look great and ride better!

...from these...

Also changed the pedals...to these...

...better picture...

cycledog1

nice conversion, much better than the orig. well done!!

thook

is that half step gearing? how is it that the front derailleur's inner cage plate doesn't hit your middle ring? do you have the derailleur mounted up higher than usual? and, it works?

billnuke1 

Yup, half step...nope, doesn’t hit the inner ring...nope, never had to touch the front derailleur...
I took it out yesterday on the Canal...absolutely a stunning rider!
Effortless, seamless shifting...
I’ll take a close up picture of that area as time allows...

thook

so, is it a regular deore dx derailleur? i ask because i have tried a half step with a dx and had to mount the derailleur higher as the plate would hit the inner ring on a 46/42 tooth configuration. it worked, but i eventually abandoned it because it looked odd...haha

billnuke1 

Yep...she’s high...and just a bit over serviced! Full disclosure...Liquid Wrench Chain & Cable...messy...seems to work...

thook

oh. man...i wish you'd quoted or tagged me. i didn't realize you posted this. anyway, thanks!! one last question, if you don't mind? are those rings not ramped and pinned?

billnuke1 

No pins! No ramps!

Ridden! Gritty!

thook

did your miyata change colors all of a sudden?

billnuke1 

Nope...

billnuke1 

Ha! Lost my mind for a little while! I’ll be back with the Miyata later...just gotta set my GPS on “Miyata”...
l’m kinda going through some stuff right now... I’ll be back in Bill’s Bicycle World later today...right now, my life parts, good and bad, are all vying for attention...my bicycles were always my Happy Place...I guess no major bicycle projects for now...luckily, I have a bunch of bicycles ready to ride right now...actually, this was always my end plan...