Peugeot PA10L - 1975, restoration.
10-07-22, 09:29 AM
#26
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I believe it is an Ideale saddle clamp. Some pics of a nice one here:
https://sidelineswap.com/gear/bikes/...-w-25-4mm-post
https://sidelineswap.com/gear/bikes/...-w-25-4mm-post
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10-10-22, 03:27 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Hei guys,
Can anyone help me and tell what is this for? Seems some cables hanger , but?
For break cable hanger i have these , but what about others? 😅
Thanks!
Can anyone help me and tell what is this for? Seems some cables hanger , but?
For break cable hanger i have these , but what about others? 😅
Thanks!
10-10-22, 06:32 AM
#29
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10-10-22, 06:33 AM
#30
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& the ones marked Mafac are the centerpull straddle-cable hangers.
10-10-22, 06:52 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Wow , thank you! Verry important parts !
I have finnished clean all the parts and box them :
& weight in grams :
Washers from friction shifters doesn't look too good, metal parts waiting for a citric acid bath toghether with all bolts and nuts ....and all metalic parts that have some surface rust. I miss 2nd pcs from the right top corner 😓. I found it in France with all the parts from the photo , NOS ....like 40$ all of them 🤦
Break has come really well , except the fact i miss 2 break pad holders from the back . As for pads will go with KoolStop .
Next days i hope to finnish with frame and fork cleaning then order some clay bar and polish compound to see how they come. Cheers!
For tubulars i will go with Veloflex , Vittoria Corsa or Specialized
I have finnished clean all the parts and box them :
& weight in grams :
Washers from friction shifters doesn't look too good, metal parts waiting for a citric acid bath toghether with all bolts and nuts ....and all metalic parts that have some surface rust. I miss 2nd pcs from the right top corner 😓. I found it in France with all the parts from the photo , NOS ....like 40$ all of them 🤦
Break has come really well , except the fact i miss 2 break pad holders from the back . As for pads will go with KoolStop .
Next days i hope to finnish with frame and fork cleaning then order some clay bar and polish compound to see how they come. Cheers!
For tubulars i will go with Veloflex , Vittoria Corsa or Specialized
10-10-22, 10:29 AM
#32
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Of course, you have some Kool-stop brake pads on the way?
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10-10-22, 01:36 PM
#33
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Nope, i want to find a single shop and buy them all at once to save for shipping . Need to do some research...i think bike24 have everything i want , but 1st need to see if i can find anything locally.
10-10-22, 02:08 PM
#35
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The OP's contributions and those of all who have posted here have made this thread a pure pleasure to read.
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10-11-22, 04:59 AM
#36
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Thread Starter
Hello guys, another question, if you can help : - about friction shifters :
This is all i have :
Seems last metal washers are not the same ...so maybe this is the reason i miss the 2nd pcs of rounded metal chromed washer who came right after the wingnut. I have studied some diagram of this shifters and seems i have all parts but 1 . Can anyone confirm please ? And i have seen some models with some cable hangers like this :
I don't have this one at all...it is mandatory? It depends on the frame? Thank you in advance!
This is all i have :
Seems last metal washers are not the same ...so maybe this is the reason i miss the 2nd pcs of rounded metal chromed washer who came right after the wingnut. I have studied some diagram of this shifters and seems i have all parts but 1 . Can anyone confirm please ? And i have seen some models with some cable hangers like this :
I don't have this one at all...it is mandatory? It depends on the frame? Thank you in advance!
10-11-22, 06:09 AM
#37
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It looks like the shifter clamp you have is for a 1x setup (ie, a 5-speed with no front derailleur...)- you'll need a clamp with studs for 2 levers, and the domed washer. Your best bet is probably to just find another set of Criterium shifters, rather than trying to find just the clamp and the missing domed washer. Here's one on ebay.fr, with the down-tube cable guide.... Though you may have luck finding one at a bike shop that's been around a while- the sort of shop that has drawers of random old stuff. These shifters came on 100,000's of bikes.
As far as the DT cable guide, unless your frame has brazed-on guides, you will need one. The Delrin one pictured I believe was standard with the Delrin derailleurs- there is also a chrome Simplex one, too, that may have usually come with the 'all-metal' Simplex mechs. Either will work.
As far as the DT cable guide, unless your frame has brazed-on guides, you will need one. The Delrin one pictured I believe was standard with the Delrin derailleurs- there is also a chrome Simplex one, too, that may have usually come with the 'all-metal' Simplex mechs. Either will work.
10-11-22, 06:37 AM
#38
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Thread Starter
Noo, the other one is on the frame 😅. If you look to some diagrams you will see there are different clamps. About the cable giude i think i don't need it cause i don't see any marks on the frame, but who knows...i asked just to be sure. Cheers!
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10-11-22, 10:22 AM
#39
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Look here to see the correct layout of the shift levers. It looks like you are missing the second "domed" piece, and perhaps there is a mix of parts in there but everything should work if you get that last missing piece.....
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...le_scan_2.html
(I know you have the nicer levers but I had a set and all the other pieces were identical to the crappy plastic wrapped with metal levers).....
Here's an even better diagram of your levers.....
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...le_scan_2.html
(I know you have the nicer levers but I had a set and all the other pieces were identical to the crappy plastic wrapped with metal levers).....
Here's an even better diagram of your levers.....
Last edited by markk900; 10-11-22 at 10:27 AM.
10-11-22, 10:35 AM
#40
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Thread Starter
markk900 i have found all the pieces on Ebay.fr , but instead 2324 seller have 3781L :
: https://www.ebay.de/itm/284326348698...&segname=11051 .
He send me a picture :
Mine is this one:
I think 3781L can work for me only if can fit here :
Need to check this and then i can order them .
: https://www.ebay.de/itm/284326348698...&segname=11051 .
He send me a picture :
Mine is this one:
I think 3781L can work for me only if can fit here :
Need to check this and then i can order them .
10-11-22, 10:51 AM
#41
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I am not an expert, but I believe the only part you need is 2284 (the domed cap on the left of your first picture); I *think* the flat vs indented keyed washer (2324) keyed washer won't matter. You can check by assembling one side of your shifter with all the parts for one side (start with the flat keyed washer) plus 2284, and see if the shifter moves smoothly. Then assemble the other side with the indented keyed washer you already have plus 2284 and see if that side works well. If both work you only need 2284.
Edit: I found a diagram that shows that simplex may have simplified the arrangement later: combining 2284 and 2324 into the single part 3781....and the one you already have may be an earlier version of that. You could try assembling the shifters with the parts you have - the indented part of the piece you already have goes to the outside it seems.
Edit: I found a diagram that shows that simplex may have simplified the arrangement later: combining 2284 and 2324 into the single part 3781....and the one you already have may be an earlier version of that. You could try assembling the shifters with the parts you have - the indented part of the piece you already have goes to the outside it seems.
Last edited by markk900; 10-11-22 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Additional information
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10-12-22, 01:48 PM
#42
Senior Member
Let me ask a question or two, which I hope do not offend.
Why would you deep clean a bike like this knowing that if you ride it, it will be relatively filthy again after just one ride? Is this to be a "wall hanger"?
What triggered that thought was the black goo residue you still have on the freewheel cogs. I have no idea why that triggered the question.
Bagging and tagging everything, IPA cleaning,... it is all overkill.
Plus, if you clean every bit of oil off the surfaces, you are facilitating corrosion. You need to follow the cleaning with a surface corrosion protection.
Like I said, I'm not trying to offend, just trying to reconcile these issues in my own thinking on this thread.
Why would you deep clean a bike like this knowing that if you ride it, it will be relatively filthy again after just one ride? Is this to be a "wall hanger"?
What triggered that thought was the black goo residue you still have on the freewheel cogs. I have no idea why that triggered the question.
Bagging and tagging everything, IPA cleaning,... it is all overkill.
Plus, if you clean every bit of oil off the surfaces, you are facilitating corrosion. You need to follow the cleaning with a surface corrosion protection.
Like I said, I'm not trying to offend, just trying to reconcile these issues in my own thinking on this thread.
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10-12-22, 02:21 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
Let me ask a question or two, which I hope do not offend.
Why would you deep clean a bike like this knowing that if you ride it, it will be relatively filthy again after just one ride? Is this to be a "wall hanger"?
What triggered that thought was the black goo residue you still have on the freewheel cogs. I have no idea why that triggered the question.
Bagging and tagging everything, IPA cleaning,... it is all overkill.
Plus, if you clean every bit of oil off the surfaces, you are facilitating corrosion. You need to follow the cleaning with a surface corrosion protection.
Like I said, I'm not trying to offend, just trying to reconcile these issues in my own thinking on this thread.
Why would you deep clean a bike like this knowing that if you ride it, it will be relatively filthy again after just one ride? Is this to be a "wall hanger"?
What triggered that thought was the black goo residue you still have on the freewheel cogs. I have no idea why that triggered the question.
Bagging and tagging everything, IPA cleaning,... it is all overkill.
Plus, if you clean every bit of oil off the surfaces, you are facilitating corrosion. You need to follow the cleaning with a surface corrosion protection.
Like I said, I'm not trying to offend, just trying to reconcile these issues in my own thinking on this thread.
- A bike like this ? Is my bike! 😅😅😅 - it will be filthy but not full of rust and mechanically destroyed. This bike has stayed for like 15 years in a box ...headset was almost stuck, no break or shifter cables, no tyre on the front wheel ...break pads was finnished . For me is like a therapy working on my free time on this byke . So i have say...why not putting back on road. I know is not a collectible or have high lvl gear on it , and maybe is not worth even 100$ but when i was riding was damn awsome + i am tired of my MTB🤪.
- Freewheel is not clean yet cause i don't have the tool to remove sprokets and need to go back to a bike shop and 2nd is because i intended to change it to a higher teeth sproket - still looking for a Suntour or Atom ....or Shimano with 26 or 28.
- Bagging have only 1 purpose - to remember how to put them back and not came here with 1000 questions of how to that ..how to other ..😉. IPA is intented to use on breaking surface after polish wheel and for cleaning polish residue before waxing paint..nothing unusual.
- All parts was sprayed with WD40 after cleaning, then clean the exces with a rag, so i am not affraid of rust back too soon - you have any better ideea here, please? If they are fully sprayed they atract dirt much faster.
Regards,
Sorin.
10-12-22, 02:39 PM
#44
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Bad Lag Black Goo**********? Overkill**********? Give me a break. I and maybe you have never cleaned a bike like this but every C&V ride that I have ever participated in had the majority of bikes in "wall hanger" condition.
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10-12-22, 09:27 PM
#45
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I'm looking forward to seeing this bike get built back up! That is the plan, yes? I hope so!
10-12-22, 11:14 PM
#46
Senior Member
Thank you for your imput , and thanks for all the question , i will try to answer all of them
- A bike like this ? Is my bike! 😅😅😅 - it will be filthy but not full of rust and mechanically destroyed. This bike has stayed for like 15 years in a box ...headset was almost stuck, no break or shifter cables, no tyre on the front wheel ...break pads was finnished . For me is like a therapy working on my free time on this byke . So i have say...why not putting back on road. I know is not a collectible or have high lvl gear on it , and maybe is not worth even 100$ but when i was riding was damn awsome + i am tired of my MTB🤪.
- Freewheel is not clean yet cause i don't have the tool to remove sprokets and need to go back to a bike shop and 2nd is because i intended to change it to a higher teeth sproket - still looking for a Suntour or Atom ....or Shimano with 26 or 28.
- Bagging have only 1 purpose - to remember how to put them back and not came here with 1000 questions of how to that ..how to other ..😉. IPA is intented to use on breaking surface after polish wheel and for cleaning polish residue before waxing paint..nothing unusual.
- All parts was sprayed with WD40 after cleaning, then clean the exces with a rag, so i am not affraid of rust back too soon - you have any better ideea here, please? If they are fully sprayed they atract dirt much faster.
Regards,
Sorin.
- A bike like this ? Is my bike! 😅😅😅 - it will be filthy but not full of rust and mechanically destroyed. This bike has stayed for like 15 years in a box ...headset was almost stuck, no break or shifter cables, no tyre on the front wheel ...break pads was finnished . For me is like a therapy working on my free time on this byke . So i have say...why not putting back on road. I know is not a collectible or have high lvl gear on it , and maybe is not worth even 100$ but when i was riding was damn awsome + i am tired of my MTB🤪.
- Freewheel is not clean yet cause i don't have the tool to remove sprokets and need to go back to a bike shop and 2nd is because i intended to change it to a higher teeth sproket - still looking for a Suntour or Atom ....or Shimano with 26 or 28.
- Bagging have only 1 purpose - to remember how to put them back and not came here with 1000 questions of how to that ..how to other ..😉. IPA is intented to use on breaking surface after polish wheel and for cleaning polish residue before waxing paint..nothing unusual.
- All parts was sprayed with WD40 after cleaning, then clean the exces with a rag, so i am not affraid of rust back too soon - you have any better ideea here, please? If they are fully sprayed they atract dirt much faster.
Regards,
Sorin.
Therapy,... that part I can relate to. IPA for braking surfaces, WD-40 for metal parts. Without something like WD-40, I was concerned you'd have a lot of rust in no time.
What I meant was, "to deep clean like this", in recognition of the depth of detail and effort put into the cleaning. I did not intend the meaning to be "a bike like this", thereby disparaging the bike in some way. The bike is great!
As I said, no offense was intended. I just wanted to better understand.
Ride it in good health and may it bring you to or keep you in good health. Riding is life.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 10-12-22 at 11:19 PM.
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10-13-22, 12:27 AM
#47
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Thread Starter
Very good, now I better understand.
Therapy,... that part I can relate to. IPA for braking surfaces, WD-40 for metal parts. Without something like WD-40, I was concerned you'd have a lot of rust in no time.
What I meant was, "to deep clean like this", in recognition of the depth of detail and effort put into the cleaning. I did not intend the meaning to be "a bike like this", thereby disparaging the bike in some way. The bike is great!
As I said, no offense was intended. I just wanted to better understand.
Ride it in good health and may it bring you to or keep you in good health. Riding is life.
Therapy,... that part I can relate to. IPA for braking surfaces, WD-40 for metal parts. Without something like WD-40, I was concerned you'd have a lot of rust in no time.
What I meant was, "to deep clean like this", in recognition of the depth of detail and effort put into the cleaning. I did not intend the meaning to be "a bike like this", thereby disparaging the bike in some way. The bike is great!
As I said, no offense was intended. I just wanted to better understand.
Ride it in good health and may it bring you to or keep you in good health. Riding is life.
& quick question to all please , i have read some things about tubulars tires , i have no reason to use glue instead that dedicated Tufo tape ? And about the widh - my rims have 20mm , how big the tubular can be ? 22...25 at max ? And tape is 19mm and 22 mm, so rims being curved will fit the 22mm tape, right? Many thanks!
10-13-22, 06:11 AM
#48
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Glue.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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10-15-22, 11:26 AM
#49
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Thread Starter
Hello guys , Anyone have an ideea how to modify a normal 6 speed Suntour to fit my 120mm Peugeot frame ?I have found a nice condition Suntour New Winner 13-26T , 6 speed available and i am thinking to buy it for my Peugeot restauration project.- i have a few option - find necesary spacers - but in Europe is extremly hard to find them- remove 1 sprocket- file the available spacers ???- cold set the frame
Honestly last option i want to avoid it ..What do you think?Regards, Sorin.
This parts are so hard to find or they have a really high price.
Honestly last option i want to avoid it ..What do you think?Regards, Sorin.
This parts are so hard to find or they have a really high price.
10-20-22, 01:51 AM
#50
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Small update - some goodies arrive to clean / prep the frame
- APC/degreaser as a prewash
- shampoo wasing
- Iron/Fallout remover - to remove any irons particle from the paint
- Clay Bar - to remove any others particles of dirt before polish
- 3in1 polish at the end - cut -> polish->wax
About touching up paint i am still undecided - i don't have the skills to do that and i think it will came up worst . I will see how fast the rust will came back after cleaning or i will use some kind of phosforic acid /rust converters on exposed parts.
I have order new 6 speed freewheel too, Kool Stop Mafac style break pads, missing parts from the shifters and waiting also break pads holders from markk900 who i want to public thank you for he's kindness.
Little by little it will start look like a bike - soon, i hope.
- APC/degreaser as a prewash
- shampoo wasing
- Iron/Fallout remover - to remove any irons particle from the paint
- Clay Bar - to remove any others particles of dirt before polish
- 3in1 polish at the end - cut -> polish->wax
About touching up paint i am still undecided - i don't have the skills to do that and i think it will came up worst . I will see how fast the rust will came back after cleaning or i will use some kind of phosforic acid /rust converters on exposed parts.
I have order new 6 speed freewheel too, Kool Stop Mafac style break pads, missing parts from the shifters and waiting also break pads holders from markk900 who i want to public thank you for he's kindness.
Little by little it will start look like a bike - soon, i hope.
Last edited by Sorin; 11-21-22 at 04:47 AM.