Tips to make my TRP Spyre/Tiagra disc brake more powerful
11-01-22, 10:14 PM
#26
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Braking involves creating as be torque on the wheel to keep it from rolling. Torque is force x radius, so if we have the braking force at the rim, the force at a caliper half way up would be twice that; 1/3 of the way out would be triple, etc.
So bigger rotors mean more torque with less linear force.
If it fits, and there aren't any other issues, the same caliper acting on a larger rotor will give you more brake, with equal or less strain on the fork.
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11-01-22, 11:40 PM
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One thing I've seen quoted are suspicions that the caliper mounts are only designed for a certain rotor diameter, as the load on those with growing rotor size and equal caliper increases. I don't know how much this would really be an issue, when following along arguments that you have made above already.
(As for me, this is a gravel bike in urban commuting duty with a carbon fork. Max braking load is probably pulling a loaded child trailer and a few grocery panniers, doing emergency braking.)
Either way, it looks reeeeally tight on my fork to fit a 180mm rotor.
(As for me, this is a gravel bike in urban commuting duty with a carbon fork. Max braking load is probably pulling a loaded child trailer and a few grocery panniers, doing emergency braking.)
Either way, it looks reeeeally tight on my fork to fit a 180mm rotor.
11-02-22, 02:01 AM
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I had a similar problem with TRP Spyres and Ultegra levers. Main symptom that I had - the pads were visually "compressing" after contacting the rotor for breaking. Which didn't make any sense for metallic incompressible pads.
Turned out it was a combination of multiple issues that I had to fix before I got a good breaking:
- True the rotors to allow a closer starting point for both pads
- Align the breaks in the mount to ensure breaks/pads are absolutely parallel to rotors
- Set the levers to allow max range, my levers have a dedicated screw for this, not sure about yours
- Set the correct initial cable tension to have a good range for the barrel adjuster
- Bring the pads as close as you can with barrel adjuster. My TRP's levers are roughly at 4-5 o'clock. You don't beed it to be at 3 o'clock.
Last edited by alexk_il; 11-02-22 at 06:48 AM.
11-02-22, 05:37 AM
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11-02-22, 07:33 PM
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Okay - I said earlier that I'd try a BB7 road from my tandem on this bike. Well, I just did thiscon the rear and: it works better than the Spyre!? Less spring force felt at the lever and much easier to generate more braking power. I can skid the rear wheel without hurting my hands from the hoods...!
That BB7 has standard pads that went through a 20 second bedding in, whereas the Spyres have KoolStop-like fancy pads that made things noticeably better compared to the stock pads, and I made sure to bed them I'm properly.
Interesting - makes this even tricker. BB7? R1? Hydraulic? Oof
These BB7 need to go back onto the tandem, unfortunately.
That BB7 has standard pads that went through a 20 second bedding in, whereas the Spyres have KoolStop-like fancy pads that made things noticeably better compared to the stock pads, and I made sure to bed them I'm properly.
Interesting - makes this even tricker. BB7? R1? Hydraulic? Oof
These BB7 need to go back onto the tandem, unfortunately.
11-02-22, 07:34 PM
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... the BB7 have a noticeably shorter lever arm - as if they were designed for Shimano pre-super SLR. And still, better
11-02-22, 08:14 PM
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@csport: in case you can remember, when you upgraded to the R1, how did the lever feel change? Did you feel less spring resistance in the lever before the pads contacted the lever?
11-02-22, 11:11 PM
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@csport: in case you can remember, when you upgraded to the R1, how did the lever feel change? Did you feel less spring resistance in the lever before the pads contacted the lever?
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