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2022 Scotland Trip - The Hebridean Way

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2022 Scotland Trip - The Hebridean Way

Old 05-24-22, 07:30 AM
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2022 Scotland Trip - The Hebridean Way

May 5th 2022 I flew to Glasgow from Boston to cycle the Outer Hebridies, The Hebridean Way as they call it is a 200+miles long sign marked trail that spans the Outer Hebridies.

Due to prevailing winds this trail is usually cycled South to North and after some research I found that the month of May has the lowest rainfall of the year...statistically speaking.

I landed in Glasgow at 2PM and proceeded to find Luggage Poing - a luggage storage facility located directly at the airport. Upon finding they close at 4PM I frantically started building my bicycle from my 2 suitcases. My bicycle has S&S couplers and it fits in one suitcase but with all the panniers and bikepacking bags and gear I chose to split things into two suitcases which proved to be amazingly stress reducing move.

I made the 4PM deadline and was on my way. The early rain gave way to partly cloudy skies and I was on a mission to make it out of the city somewhere to pitch my tent for the night.

I needed to cross the River Clyde first and join a bicycle route 7 heading towards Loch Lomond. The adjustment to riding on the left side of the road, navigating roundabouts and turn finding was slightly more challenging than usual and the choice of crossing over Erskine Bridge was hyperurban but thereafter I found myself on a pleasant route 7 navigating canals and vilages.



It did not take too long to reach the town of Balloch, at the southern end of Loch Lomond. There I abandoned route 7 and embarked on the west side of the lake towards two potential campground locations. It was almost 9pm when I arrived at Luss Beach Campground where I was actually able to contact off hours warden and pay for a campsite, get a shower and spend my first night in Scotland.



Day 1 stats: Distance 34.94 mi, Elev Gain 1,074 ft

The next day I embarked towards the west shore of Scotland and a town of Oban. There was a path that doubled as a bicycle trail for about half the distance of Loch Lomond



The dedicated trail ended before I reached Crianlarich and I was introduced to Scottish narrow roads. It was an eye opening experience. Absolutely no shoulder to cycle on seems to be the norm here. I exchanged yields with the drivers along the way and found them to be courteous and patient.



I did not have enough speed to reach the ferry at 1PMish. I reached Oban around 3PM, purchased a ferry ticket for the next day, had fish and chips on the wharf, found a room in a guesthouse and slept like a log.



Day 2 Stats: Distance 68.80 mi, Elev Gain 2,693 ft

The next day I casually enjoyed an excellent bagel with smoked salmon and a latte at the waterfront plaza, got acquainted with some cyclists heading in the same direction and boarded the ferry to Castlebay on the island of Barra. We reached our destination late afternoon where I proceeded first to cycle south to Vatersay where the beginning of the trail of the Hebridean Way was. When I reached the end of the road I was slightly disappointed not to see any kind of marker to mile 0.



I started pedaling the trail and soonafter I came upon cyclists taking selfies of themselves by a rusty pole. It turns out I overshot the mile 0 in all my excitement. I took their group photo and they gladly took a photo of me.



I followed the Way through a beautiful landscape of white sandy beaches, windswept folling sheep pastures and occassional rock houses.



I pedaled past the turn off to the ferry as the last ferry has already gone, past the local airport to the northen end of Barra and a nice campsite at Scurrival.



Chatting with the landowner I found out that bad weather was coming in a few hours. High winds and rain. His face showed it all, it was going to be bad.

Day 3 stats: Distance 22.91 mi, Elev Gain 1,354 ft
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Old 05-24-22, 07:36 AM
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I slept well but the rain started around midnight and the high winds around 3pm. And the winds were strong. Similar to camping on a windswept mountaintop. Strong enough to break poles to any flimsy or badly pitched tent. The wind pulled a couple of my tentpegs. I could not sleep much past 4am so I slowly packed up and started cycling into the 30mph wind and rain to reach the 7am ferry to island of Uist.

The ferry was bumpy but all of it was short. I soon started cycling again through exhillirating landscape with a tailwind most of the way.









I'm not gonna lie. The cycling was tough. It was cold, wet, windy and when the roads turned into the wind it was outright brutal. The wind gusts were in the 40mph range. In fact, what I thought I would cover in 2+ days I ended up covering in one long day. I reached the south end of Isle of Harris in Leverburg and cycled a few more miles north to Horgabost Campsite.



Day 4 Stats: 91.46 mi, 2916 ft elevation gain


The next day started rather sunny albeit still windy. I was hopeful but soon as I started cycling the misting returned. I found out that the isle of Harris has mountains soon enough after I climbed first two and got hail on both of them. The cycling was again spectacular. Just an awesome bicycle ride for anyone who loves cycling.








But the weather was merciless too and soon turned to the same shenanigans as yesterday. With the aid of mostly tailwind and the lack of campgrounds along the way I reluctantly reached the end of the trail at the lighthouse at Butt of Lewis. This is not really how I planned things. I thought to reach the end of the Hebridian Way would take me approximately 5-6 days yet I completed it in 2 days if You don't count the initial day late afternoon to reach the southern tier.






Two young folks in a camper were the only visitors to butt of Lewis lighthouse at the time and they took my photograph. They also dug out a bottle of whisky and we had a toast to the completion of the trail. 1 mile from the lighthouse was a small field for camper vans and the owner asked me if I wanted to spend the night in their caravan. I was cold and tired and the offer was most welcome.


Day 5 stats - Distance 88.14 mi, Elev Gain 5,462 ft
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Old 05-24-22, 07:39 AM
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The wind was roaring in the morning and I had a challenge of 15 miles of headwind to start the day. It was slow going but hey, I was on vacation and there was nothing else to do anyway. Rain and wind, rain and wind, some sunshine and back to rain and wind was the norm.

The tailwind eventually turned to side wind and as I reached the town of Stornoway the wind was no issue at all. I proceeded to buy a ferry ticket to Ullapool and managed to score the best green chilli I have every eaten in my life at The Bridge Cafe. It was so delicious I thanked the chef personally.





The ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool took about half as long as the ferry from Oban to Barra. I was done with the Hebridean way but still had tons of time on my vacation. I cycled about 10 miles from Ullapool and found a wonderful bunkhouse called Greenway Bunkhouse.



Day 6 Stats: 40.73 miles, 2210 feet elevation gain

My goal for the next day was to reach Inverness. The day started relatively well but soon turned into a mixture of sun and sprinkles and wind and repeat and repeat. The landscape was again spectacular.



I reached Inverness early afternoon.



My goal now was to find and join route 7, also called the Glen and Lochs Way. There was an unexpected triple hill out of the Inverness but the landscape muted my heavy breathing.



I pedaled until I reached a pleasant campground at Auchnahillin Holiday Park.



Day 7 Stats: Distance 63.43 mi, Elev Gain 3,441 ft

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Old 05-24-22, 07:43 AM
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The next day my goal was to follow the markers of The Glenns and Lochs Way and not get lost. I managed that mostly due to the excellent marking work. It was hard to miss the turn indicators.





With mostly headwind the entire day, the cresting of Dumbarton Pass was tough but the downhill from there was glorious.



I pedaled until I reached the Blair Castle town and the campground.




Day 8 stats: Distance 75.40 mi, Elev Gain 3,121 ft

The next day I was getting dangerously close to reaching Glasgow and I needed to make a decision what to do with the remainder of my time in Scotland. I decided to board the train back to Oban, eventually, and to explore the Inner Hebridies. The ride today was again spectacular although the section the southern shore of Loch Tay was tiring.





After Loch Tay I had two choices. Continue following bicycle route 7 to Loch Lomond and try to board the train in Balloch. But close inspection of the railroad showed a closer option at Crianlarich. I chose to follow the road to Crianlarich.

When I reached the train station I was relieved that the train was coming by in about an hour. This station was unmanned. I had to buy the tickets on the train or on line. After I realized that the upcoming train was cancelled due to staffing issues I had last train of the day available to me at around 8pm. I had plenty of waiting time so I purchased ticket on line although the phone web site version did not allow me to reserve a space for a bicycle. This proved to be fateful. When the train arrived I was denied boarding with an explanation that all bicycle slots were full. This was disappointing to say the least. I proceeded to pitch my tent at a nearby river and used the remaining daylight to call and reserve bicycle for the first train in the morning. I was told I would get an email confirmation with a booking number and away I slept.



Day 9 Stats: Distance 60.01 mi, Elev Gain 3,305 ft

The next day, the email confirmation still hadn't arrived. I arrived back at the train station and with the remaining waiting time tried to call ScotRail customer service to get the booking number. They were unable to find my booking and questioned whether I made the reservation at all. I got a phone number to the supervisor and that person was unable to find my reservation and also told me that the bicycle slots on the train were already full. I was denied boarding the train the second time. To say I was furious would be an understatement. I partially blamed myself, thinking maybe I did not articulate my name or my email properly and the reservation was lost somewhere.

I decided to abandon the plan to go to Oban and proceeded to ride in the rain (it rained every day of my trip at least once per day) to Glasgow.



The rain cooled me down and by the time I reached Balloch at the bottom of Loch Lomond I decided to at least try talking to a train attendant to get me on a train to Oban. This succeeded. I got a reservation printed for next morning.

Day 10 Stats: Distance 34.65 mi, Elev Gain 870 ft
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Old 05-24-22, 07:45 AM
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The next day I boarded the train from Balloch to Dunbarton where I caught the train to Oban and was able to catch the ferry to the Isle of Mull. From Craignure I decided first to head towards the southern end - Fionnphort. It turns out to be quite a hilly way but the rain and wind did not dampen my enthusiasm. The landscape was gorgeous.





The campsite near Fionnphort was spectacular



Day 11 Stats: Distance 38.06 mi, Elev Gain 2,248 ft

Anyone reaching Fionnphort is most likely going to take the ferry to the Isle of Iona, location of the earliest arrival of christianity on Scotish lands (or something like that), it is a pilgrimage island to many but also a gorgeous one with Sandy Beaches and a beautiful Abbey to boost.

My day started nice when I was packing the tent but by the time I reached Fionnphort ferry I realized I was too early and by the time the first ferry went it would be raining cats and dogs. I decided to battle cats and dogs on a bike and proceeded to cycle into the wind, destination Bay of Salen. I did not know that the way there would be amazing. I was rewarded.











The campground at Salen was great.



Oh yeah, and I received an email confirmation of my booking for the train from 2 days ago. So I did everything right to get my booty on the train in Crainlarich. I still can not fathom why they could not find me in their system when I was in the system after all. I thought maybe I did not dictate my name correctly and my email correctly but I did. The email came 2 days later. I suppose I just needed to suffer. So I did. ;-)

Day 12 Stats: Distance 44.07 mi, Elev Gain 2,137 ft

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Old 05-24-22, 07:48 AM
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The campground at Salen had an affordable laundry option. I proceeded to do laundry and chat with others and generally enjoy my time. I was told that tomorrow there is a high wind warning. I chuckled, thinking, every day there was high wind already. What do they mean? I checked the forecast and realized tomorrow the winds were in 40+mph range. Given that I planned a pretty challenging bike ride over the west side of Isle of Mull I decided to abandon. Instead I chose to add extra stakes to my tent pitch and take the bus back to Fionnphort and go to Iona.

The bus was going through a pretty heavy rainstorm but, haleluyah, about 10 miles before Fionnsphort the rain ended and there appeared to be blue skies over Iona. I boarded the ferry and enjoyed the bumpy ride.



I circumnavigated Fiona on foot and the weather held back. The sunshine warmed my wet socks on the rain soaked spungy pasture trail.











Day 13 Stats: Distance 6.52 mi walking, Elev Gain 371 ft

The next day I cycled back to Craigsnure and caught a ferry to Oban. In Oban I did some shopping for family and next day took the train to Dunbarton Station from where I cycled to the Glasgow Airport. I was able to pack my bicycle within an hour and change to non cycling clothes.

Great trip. Planning was right but the weather gods laughed at me. Even natives say the first week of May comes with a heat wave. Well that did not work out for anyone who was around the Hebrides. I left Scotland with a great admiration of the residents of the islands, with a great fondness for the friendlines and sense of humor of the Scottish people and with an experience of awesome bike riding in Scotland (minus the no shoulder roads)
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Old 05-24-22, 08:16 AM
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Sounds like you had a great trip. The Highlands are absolutely incredible, and one of my favourite places in the UK. But, just a note for anyone who comes over to this side of the pond, even if there is a shoulder on the side of the road, don't ride in it. You're under no obligation to- in fact it's recommended you ride a a meter from the edge of the road to avoid debris.
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Old 05-24-22, 08:48 AM
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I left further details out of the trip report. If you have any additional questions about logistics or anything else please post a reply with your question and I will gladly answer it.
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Old 05-24-22, 11:39 AM
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Thanks for posting. I am considering a UK trip next year, I will look at this in more detail when I get closer to my planning.

I can't fit fenders into my S&S case either. How do you like Pinion drive?
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Old 05-24-22, 12:09 PM
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Pinion with belt drive was the ideal drive train on this trip. I never even looked at it the whole time while if I had chain and derailleur I would have to clean and re-lube it every day. It rained every day, or several times per day.

Changing the oil for pinion drive is very simple. I need to do it once per year. That is the only maintenance I do. I don't have to worry about getting a twig into my derailleur and breaking the whole thing, don't have to worry about dropping the bike on wrong side (on this trip my bike got blown over by the wind probably 10 times), I could ride my rain pants without tucking my pantleg in, I never had to walk a steep hill ... had enough granny gears (P18) for biking all day and getting a big ass hill at the end of the day with a loaded bike was still not a problem
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Old 05-24-22, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PedalingWalrus
Pinion with belt drive was the ideal drive train on this trip. I never even looked at it the whole time while if I had chain and derailleur I would have to clean and re-lube it every day. It rained every day, or several times per day.

Changing the oil for pinion drive is very simple. I need to do it once per year. That is the only maintenance I do. I don't have to worry about getting a twig into my derailleur and breaking the whole thing, don't have to worry about dropping the bike on wrong side (on this trip my bike got blown over by the wind probably 10 times), I could ride my rain pants without tucking my pantleg in, I never had to walk a steep hill ... had enough granny gears (P18) for biking all day and getting a big ass hill at the end of the day with a loaded bike was still not a problem
Great. Glad you like it.

Thanks again for posting.
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Old 05-24-22, 08:17 PM
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If you had visited the Isle of Mull, I would have recommended Torosay Castle. My great-great-grandfather owned it back when the estate covered 24,000 acres.

My family will be doing a similar tour with a camper van in 2023.
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Old 05-25-22, 02:47 AM
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I did visit Isle of Mull and I saw the castle


Originally Posted by 50PlusCycling
If you had visited the Isle of Mull, I would have recommended Torosay Castle. My great-great-grandfather owned it back when the estate covered 24,000 acres.

My family will be doing a similar tour with a camper van in 2023.
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Old 05-25-22, 06:52 PM
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G’day PedalingWalrus,
a map of your route if possible would be great as well reading of the prices of everything as an aid for those following in your tire tread prints (not least the green chilli)
It’s getting close to three decades ago since I toured in that part of the world (albeit Glasgow to Stranraer across to Larne in Northern Ireland down to Dublin in the Republic, if memory serves).
My sister has long talked about a Hebrides trip and your postings in here has piqued my interest.
Thanks for sharing
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Old 05-25-22, 08:44 PM
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Day 1
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Old 05-25-22, 08:45 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:47 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:47 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:49 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:51 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:52 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:53 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:54 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:56 PM
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Old 05-25-22, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Maine, USA
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Bikes: Corvid Sojourner, Surly Ice Cream Truck, Co-Motion Divide, Co-Motion Java Tandem, Salsa Warbird, Salsa Beargrease, Carver Tandem

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