Bar Taping and Electrical Tape looking tape?
#1
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Bar Taping and Electrical Tape looking tape?
My 92-93+- Specialized Allez Comp has white bar tape on the bars, but it also has something that looks like a single wrap of Electrical Tape on each side near the center of the bar. I saw this on a posting of what looked to be an as new bike like mine, so mine might be a factory bar tape job. What is the purpose of the adfitional tape? Don't you start at the center, wrapping outward (which holds the bar tape in position), then tuck it into the ends of the bar, then push in the plugs?
Danny
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Many (most?) mechanics begin the wrapping at the bar ends and wrap toward the stem and then finish and anchored with a wrap or two of "finishing tape". That way the overlapping layers have their exposed edges facing toward the bar end and don't tend to get curled up by the rider's hands. It makes for greater durability.
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Nope, as posted by HillRider you start at the end of the drop and tape up. I hate tucking the tape in, the plug always falls out. I cut the tape at the start, tapered like the finish. I keep the factory edge out and cut the taper so it will get wrapped over. Most mechanics will use electrical tape to finish at the top.
#4
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Many (most?) mechanics begin the wrapping at the bar ends and wrap toward the stem and then finish and anchored with a wrap or two of "finishing tape". That way the overlapping layers have their exposed edges facing toward the bar end and don't tend to get curled up by the rider's hands. It makes for greater durability.
Edit: Ok, it is electrical tape
Danny
Last edited by kaiserschmarrn; 08-25-20 at 08:51 PM.
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I’ve found that spending a few extra bucks on premium electrical make wrapping bars easier and better looking.
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#6
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Previous posts are correct. Wrapping top to bottom exposes the raw edge and the edge can curl. Wrapping bottom to top keeps the edge over-lapped and it doesn't curl, but, you're left with using some kind of sticky tape to finish the tape off on top. If you finish the plastic electrical tape off correctly it won't unravel or curl.
This is how I was taught many years ago:
Start wrapping the electrical tape pretty tight and stretch it around the bar twice, then let off on the tension about 50% and wrap a half more turn, then let off almost all tension and wrap to complete with 3 total wraps with the end of the tape on the middle of the back edge of the bar. That way your fingers won't pull the tape off.
+1 on buying high quality electrical tape. I like 3M.
This is how I was taught many years ago:
Start wrapping the electrical tape pretty tight and stretch it around the bar twice, then let off on the tension about 50% and wrap a half more turn, then let off almost all tension and wrap to complete with 3 total wraps with the end of the tape on the middle of the back edge of the bar. That way your fingers won't pull the tape off.
+1 on buying high quality electrical tape. I like 3M.
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Previous posts are correct. Wrapping top to bottom exposes the raw edge and the edge can curl. Wrapping bottom to top keeps the edge over-lapped and it doesn't curl, but, you're left with using some kind of sticky tape to finish the tape off on top. If you finish the plastic electrical tape off correctly it won't unravel or curl.
This is how I was taught many years ago:
Start wrapping the electrical tape pretty tight and stretch it around the bar twice, then let off on the tension about 50% and wrap a half more turn, then let off almost all tension and wrap to complete with 3 total wraps with the end of the tape on the middle of the back edge of the bar. That way your fingers won't pull the tape off.
+1 on buying high quality electrical tape. I like 3M.
This is how I was taught many years ago:
Start wrapping the electrical tape pretty tight and stretch it around the bar twice, then let off on the tension about 50% and wrap a half more turn, then let off almost all tension and wrap to complete with 3 total wraps with the end of the tape on the middle of the back edge of the bar. That way your fingers won't pull the tape off.
+1 on buying high quality electrical tape. I like 3M.
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#11
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Dan
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#12
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Electrical tape will fail in the heat of the day, leaving sticky residue. Silicone tape is best.
#13
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I think this is one of the most overlooked tips when using electrical tape. If the final wrap(s) have tension, the tape will slowly unwrap exposing the sticky glue. I keep a scissor handy for the final cut and don't just pull and tear.
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In the 70's seemed like all bikes started the wrap in the center and worked out to the bar ends. I've definitely had tape curl over time, but usually it isn't bad.
Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way. Electrical tape looks so cheesy.
Read one book that suggested using twine as finishing tape. Same guy recommended a coat of shellac not only on the twine but the cork bar tape as well.
Not sure what is up with the porno music on this video but here is the method
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way. Electrical tape looks so cheesy.
Read one book that suggested using twine as finishing tape. Same guy recommended a coat of shellac not only on the twine but the cork bar tape as well.
Not sure what is up with the porno music on this video but here is the method
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
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I also tried Silicone tape and went back to electrical tape. The silicone tape tends to curl and move if one of your hand positions is near the stem. Another vote for premium electrical tape (3M) as the Dollar Store stuff sticks poorly and gets messy.
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Does the tape we use as finishing tape have to be tape that was specifically sold by the makers of the bar tape or has some swanky cycling name logo on it?
I've used most everything. My previous bike has the fusible silicone tape on it that has held up well. My new bike has what looks like electrical tape. Whether it is or isn't, it matches the black bar wrap and is installed very nicely.
Then again maybe it's electricians that have been using handlebar finishing tape all these years. <grin>
I've used most everything. My previous bike has the fusible silicone tape on it that has held up well. My new bike has what looks like electrical tape. Whether it is or isn't, it matches the black bar wrap and is installed very nicely.
Then again maybe it's electricians that have been using handlebar finishing tape all these years. <grin>
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One of the and if not the the main problems w/ bar tape and finish tape is that people leave tape on for wayyyyyyyyy too long. If you ride regularly you should be changing your bar tape every few months. Especially in the summer, more so if you sweat a lot, and even more so if you use aluminum handlebars. Sweaty bar tape is nasty, do you really want to smell like a goat? It also holds that sweat against the bar and can start some truly epic corrosion, I'm sure you've seen photos. Do yourself a favor and put new tape on every couple-3-4 months.
#18
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Packaged tape sets include plugs, the tape and finishing tape, a length precut, logo'd on release paper..
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https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
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https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
#21
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Its an old technique from square rigged sailing days when all the lines were a natural fiber, to hold the cut ends together..
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Top to bottom. Cateye plugs.
John
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In the 70's seemed like all bikes started the wrap in the center and worked out to the bar ends. I've definitely had tape curl over time, but usually it isn't bad.
Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way. Electrical tape looks so cheesy.
Read one book that suggested using twine as finishing tape. Same guy recommended a coat of shellac not only on the twine but the cork bar tape as well.
Not sure what is up with the porno music on this video but here is the method
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way. Electrical tape looks so cheesy.
Read one book that suggested using twine as finishing tape. Same guy recommended a coat of shellac not only on the twine but the cork bar tape as well.
Not sure what is up with the porno music on this video but here is the method
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/handle...d-twine-finish
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
This video shows how to finish your bar tape with twine. No messy residue, looks classy, can be shellacked to look even cooler.
That exact same link was included in post #14 . Just sayin'.
#24
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Gaffers tape is great, but expensive & commonly in 2" width, not 1" wide (3M used to packace small rolls ,
It's a flexible cloth backing & better adhesive than duct tape..
gaffers are a safety crew job on the movie locations , named in the credits at the end.
It's a flexible cloth backing & better adhesive than duct tape..
gaffers are a safety crew job on the movie locations , named in the credits at the end.
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gorilla tape is even more ugly than electrical tape.
I bought some heat shrink tubing with the idea of using it as finishing tape. Only problem with that is one needs to pull the brake lever to put it on and then you have one shot at getting it right. Once it is shrunk you need to cut it off than remove everything to replace.
I bought some heat shrink tubing with the idea of using it as finishing tape. Only problem with that is one needs to pull the brake lever to put it on and then you have one shot at getting it right. Once it is shrunk you need to cut it off than remove everything to replace.