Originally Posted by jar351

Here's another pic, just for fun. In this one I've got the Huret Duopar swapped out for a Cyclone Mk II, while I service the Huret.

Originally Posted by mtnbke

Good find.

The Cannondale ST series is the original "country bike." Cannondale was selling these before Grant ever left food service to start working at Bridgestone. The early builds are eerily identical to the BOBish/Rivendell bikes that everyone thinks is a Grant thing. However, these were stock spec'd bikes being made by another manufacturer and sold before he really started to get Bridgestone to swing his way, and long before Rivendell would be a gleam in his eye:

Nitto 1" Technomic stems, Nitto Randonneur handlebars w/Cinelli cork, Stronglight Delta headsets, Sugino AT triple cranks with sensible "real world" range (28/44/48 in the popular touring "half-step" of the time), Sugino BB, Suntour Superbe Pro GT long cage (supposedly the only place this exists), Suntouir Superbe seatpost, Suntour Superbe triple front mech, Suntour Superbe shifters (some reportedly came with Suntour Accushift Bar-cons), the still epic Suntour Superbe pro road pedals, Brooks honey leather saddle w/copper rivets or Ideal honey saddle w/copper rivets, Honey Cannondale leather pedal straps, three water bottle cages painted to match, amazing metallic paint, front and rear fenders painted to match, fenders, wide tires and frame fits wider tires even with fenders, kevlar belted tires (630-32), wide range freewheel 13-30, (the almost priceless now) Dia-compe NGC982 cantilevers in BLACK, Tange touring fork w/lowrider rack bosses.

These were available in 19", 21", 23", 25" and 27" sizes. The fit on this is not by modern standards which is sizing to the hoods. Fit on these has nothing to do with standover, these are touring bikes remember. You need not actually be able to standover the bike safely for it to be an ideal fit. Fit these to the top tube length, frame size be damned. Most people will be on a frame too small for them by at least one size. Fit is about all day comfort, not about avoiding having to lean the bike over to the side at a stop light.

Probably the grail bike if their ever was one. The aluminum frame was stronger than anything else out there by orders of magnitude. It was much stiffer than anything else out there. It was unbelievably lighter, lighter than most lugged racing frames, and this was a touring frame. While these had relaxed geometry, the thing was these would actually outsprint, outclimb, and still be more comfortable than racing frames throughout the 80s.

Cannondale ST bikes are worthy of being your "best bike" by far. Build 'em up with your best bits. I think Phil Wood hubs are perfect for these now. Phil will still makes 126mm hubs, and will make a 40h or 48h in 126mm if you only ask (I have 42.5/48.5 flange 126mm 40h and 48h hubs if anyone needs some). Velocity makes the Dyad in 27" (630) in 48h, and other 630 rims in 40 and 36 drill. I've always thought these would ride even better with a custom Black Sheep titanium touring fork with the identical characteristics of the originals. You could also put a carbon fork on the lower STs and make them "comfortable" racing bikes.

I absolutely think it is mistake to spread these to 130mm. That's just me, and many lightweight people have. However, these are treasures in my mind and I wouldn't want to risk it. Supposedly, some of the STs were being made in 128mm at the end.

To me this was always the bike you ride in full regalia (fenders, racks, etc.) on the century charity ride. Drive the other wankers on their flexy steel crazy as you pull away on the climbs. All they can focus on is your racks and fenders!

The disadvantage of the lower ST models, depending on your perspective, is that they came with caliper brake mounts, while the higher end STs came with Canti mounts. If you really are savvy you'll search for LL Bean bikes, knowing that early ones were just Cannondale ST series bikes.

I have a nearly NOS Nitto bars if someone could use 'em. Much too narrow for me. I replaced mine with WTB mountain road drop bars which have a more aggressive flare, and are much wider. Also have the 175mm Sugino AT triple crank and BB (replaced mine with 205mm Zinn/High Sierra triple crank). I was an idiot to sell of my Superbe Pro pedals, and now want some back. Also sold off my Brooks saddle, as they make my willy go numb.

I have a white ST400 and a red ST400 and the paint doesn't begin to compare with my ST800. I'll probably have both refinished eventually. There is a HUGE debate regarding whether these can be safely powdercoated, assuming you use a powdercoater that understands that this is thin wall aluminum and uses a very soft blasting media. Regular blasting media will literally eat through the tubing. Easton engineers say that heat treating of aluminum frames is lost if aluminum frames reach powder coating temperatures. Others have powder coated multiple Cannondales and claimed ride quality, stiffness, and strength haven't been affected. The real issue, for me is that there is no way to safely remove the plastic bits attached to the frames. These would just melt in the powder oven. I haven't refinished any of mine, yet. Stay tuned.

Originally Posted by Schlik

Hello. I have been out of cycling for 20+ years. I love Cannondales. I had a 1992 SR500 (can't recall frame size). I am trying to buy a 1987 ST500 from a guy who insists that a 21" frame is too small for me. (I have to drive an hour to see it so I can't just try it out.) As I am 6'2", it makes sense that the second smallest size (19", 21", 23", 25", 27") would not be for me. But when I do sizing calculations with my measurements, like at competitivecycling, it says that a 21" seat tube range (which I understand is a 21" frame) is not crazy. In your post, you say throw sizing out the window. But should I assume that 21" is just too small for a 6'2" guy? The owner says he is 5'5". I am confused. Could you lay some wisdom on me please?

Originally Posted by bradtx

Andre, If it fits, it's worth keeping. Looks to me that it was either originally bought as a frameset or rebuilt. Check the Cannondale dealers in the area as they may still have some of the TT cable guides.

Bob, I think the early STs weren't equipped with the fork's mid mount, but rather had two eyelets on the fork's dropout.

Brad