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What Sort of Gearing Works Best for your Needs?

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What Sort of Gearing Works Best for your Needs?

Old 10-26-21, 02:42 PM
  #351  
livedarklions
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
I can't take that response seriously. Sorry. "Oh, I'm doing this and you can't" and "I'm doing it due to injury/illness". Right.........

Nice try, I never said anything like that.
But yeah, blind people read Braille because they're blind, and I can't read Braille and I'm sighted, so even if I had said it, it's not contradictory at all. Yes, I could learn Braille, maybe you could train your muscles to do this.

My CV system has been compromised, so if I was so inclined to try something that would definitely put more strain on it, this would not be the time. But the fact is, this worked even with my compromised CV system, that doesn't mean you could do it. There's absolutely no reason "I do this because I'm sick" (which I didn't actually say) and "you can't do this" can't both be true. You fail basic logic.

Seriously, quit. You suck at this.

Last edited by livedarklions; 10-26-21 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 10-26-21, 02:53 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by badger1 View Post
LOL!
"I told you your gearing wouldn't work for your needs, but would you listen? No."

As far as I'm concerned, you win the internets today!
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Old 10-26-21, 02:56 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
Why not?

Between this logic fail and the torque/running thing, I'm almost feeling sorry for him. Almost.
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Old 10-26-21, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
This thread is like a TV soap opera of old. You miss a few episodes and you havenít really missed anything.

Tell us one of your new roadside recipes, maybe it'll break the cycle.
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Old 10-26-21, 03:22 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by livedarklions View Post
​​​​​​It's 53t in the front, and I forget the size of the small chain ring. I don't think my front derailleurs could handle a bigger chain ring, but I've never actually looked into it.
I am sure they can. The 650C triathlon bikes with 55t and 56t big rings use(d) regular road components. The big issue would be if you can raise your front derailer enough. I think it needs to be raised by about 4mm for a 55t and 6mm for a 56t.

BTW, I searched 650C and discovered that it is essentially dead as far as new bikes is concerned. I did not know that as I've been out of cycling for about 12 years (returned last year).

Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 10-26-21 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 10-26-21, 05:13 PM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by livedarklions View Post

My CV system has been compromised
For sure this makes a low cadence strategy absolutely right for you. There is no doubt that a higher cadence puts more stress on your CV system.
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Old 10-26-21, 05:33 PM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by livedarklions View Post
BMI has next to nothing to do with fitness. Without knowing the composition of that body mass, it's just a meaningless ratio.
True, "fitness" wasn't quite the word I was looking for. Putting my numbers into the "New BMI calculator" it says that my "healthy" weight range is 65-88 kg. Now that is pretty useless information. As you say it needs to know at least your basic body type to have any practical use. Otherwise it's just stating the obvious and allowing a very generous upper limit for most people. I would most definitely consider myself over-weight at 88 kg and yet I would have to cut at least one of my legs off to get down to 65 kg. As it happens I'm pretty close to the mid-point of that range and of fairly average body composition. So I suppose my issue is with the range, which seems to span from stick-man to the Incredible Hulk for a given height. As a single number, BMI is pretty meaningless, new or old.
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Old 10-26-21, 06:24 PM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski View Post
True, "fitness" wasn't quite the word I was looking for. Putting my numbers into the "New BMI calculator" it says that my "healthy" weight range is 65-88 kg. Now that is pretty useless information. As you say it needs to know at least your basic body type to have any practical use. Otherwise it's just stating the obvious and allowing a very generous upper limit for most people. I would most definitely consider myself over-weight at 88 kg and yet I would have to cut at least one of my legs off to get down to 65 kg. As it happens I'm pretty close to the mid-point of that range and of fairly average body composition. So I suppose my issue is with the range, which seems to span from stick-man to the Incredible Hulk for a given height. As a single number, BMI is pretty meaningless, new or old.

I actually lost enough weight once to get to the recommended range for my height on the old BMI. I looked like I had aged 10 years and was actually pretty weak. I very consciously had to put on weight for the only time in my life and worked out like crazy to put on 10 pounds of muscle to get back to overweight range. I'm a wide body, I really can't do skinny without looking and feeling like crap.
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Old 10-27-21, 01:19 AM
  #359  
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I forgot how I even got subscribed to this thread. But, I am inclined to belive livedarklions . There is an avid & active lady cyclist I know that organizes group rides from the local high school. At least 100-200 miles/week or more, all weather, rain or shine & all at 50-60 rpm.

She's not slow. She could be faster as her tree-trunk legs need a lot of O2, but I wouldn't want her chasing me either. I have a feeling her sprint is faster than a bear-trap if she set her mind to it. I've never been brave enough to find out. She was a professional speed skater in The Netherlands. I'm under no illusion I'm gonna win against any athlete that was good enough to get paid.

For how she rides, her cadence, her gears work for her & there is no denying that. She doesn't do Time Trials. She doesn't do 5 hour centuries. She doesn't do long hills. She doesn't do ultra-endurance or spend time at the Velodrome like some of here do (apparently) professionally. She just speed-skates in the off-season & rides her bike 25 miles at a time inspiring others to do the same. I think some here could use some inspiration in this regard...To find out what they like & to enjoy doing that for themselves.

The rest of the discussion here, about preferred cadence being related to current power requirement to do the job? Yeah, no -ish. In other news: Water is wet.
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Old 11-04-21, 02:29 AM
  #360  
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What sort of gearing would you guys prefer for a bike seeing mostly gravel use with a 11-36 cassette and 26x2" wheels?

1x: 38t, 2x: 28/44, 3x: 26/36/46?
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Old 11-04-21, 02:30 AM
  #361  
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What sort of gearing would you guys prefer for a bike seeing mostly gravel use with a 11-36 cassette and 26x2" wheels?

1x: 38t, 2x: 28/44, 3x: 28/38/46?
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Old 11-04-21, 04:46 AM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
What sort of gearing would you guys prefer for a bike seeing mostly gravel use with a 11-36 cassette and 26x2" wheels?

1x: 38t, 2x: 28/44, 3x: 28/38/46?
Is this a wind up?
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Old 11-04-21, 06:06 AM
  #363  
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I would prefer mostly round gears, with teeth.

I have successfully used oval gears, also with teeth.
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Old 11-04-21, 11:27 AM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski View Post
Is this a wind up?

Hint, hint: Whatever you're doing, it's wrong. Mumble, mumble, crank arms.
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Old 11-04-21, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
I would prefer mostly round gears, with teeth.

I have successfully used oval gears, also with teeth.

I agree, toothless gears suck. Come to think of it, toothless people suck through a straw from time to time.

Make a note of it: Teeth are good things to have.
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Old 11-04-21, 11:34 AM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by livedarklions View Post
(I ride 52x11 on flat surfaces and think its "efficient") Hint, hint: Whatever you're doing, it's wrong.
Refer to quoted text above for correction *
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Old 11-04-21, 11:41 AM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Refer to quoted text above for correction *
Lame, very very lame. No points.
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Old 11-04-21, 11:48 AM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
What sort of gearing would you guys prefer for a bike seeing mostly gravel use with a 11-36 cassette and 26x2" wheels?

1x: 38t, 2x: 28/44, 3x: 28/38/46?
I dunno. Depends on the rider, what sort of riding they do, and what their regional road and gravel terrain is like. Also the specific cog counts of the cassette and the rider's shifting habits, really.

Why is the cassette being held constant?

Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Refer to quoted text above for correction *
If the riders' legs produce adequate torque to handle it smoothly, it potentially is more efficient, if by "efficient" we're referring to energy efficiency.
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Old 11-04-21, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post


If the riders' legs produce adequate torque to handle it smoothly, it potentially is more efficient, if by "efficient" we're referring to energy efficiency.
Yup.
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Old 11-04-21, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
I dunno. Depends on the rider, what sort of riding they do, and what their regional road and gravel terrain is like. Also the specific cog counts of the cassette and the rider's shifting habits, really.

Why is the cassette being held constant?


If the riders' legs produce adequate torque to handle it smoothly, it potentially is more efficient, if by "efficient" we're referring to energy efficiency.
I dont think there is such thing as maximizing efficiency with a cog less than 14t in the rear, especially with something like a 52t in the front. Unless you are descending a 22% sloping downhill.

11-36 is the cassette i plan to be using.
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Old 11-04-21, 12:29 PM
  #371  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
I dont think there is such thing as maximizing efficiency with a cog less than 14t in the rear, especially with something like a 52t in the front. Unless you are descending a 22% sloping downhill.

11-36 is the cassette i plan to be using.

You don't know what efficiency means.
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Old 11-04-21, 12:35 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
11-36 is the cassette i plan to be using.
I don't understand how you can be committed to a cassette while having no idea which of several wildly different chainring arrangements you're going use. These are choices that influence the consequences of each other.

I dont think there is such thing as maximizing efficiency with a cog less than 14t in the rear, especially with something like a 52t in the front. Unless you are descending a 22% sloping downhill.
How are you defining "efficiency"?
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Old 11-04-21, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
I don't understand how you can be committed to a cassette while having no idea which of several wildly different chainring arrangements you're going use. These are choices that influence the consequences of each other.
You're right, the question makes no sense.

Just simple math shows that--if you have a 28t chain ring, it's a totally different question whether you want a 36t cog vs. if you only have a 38 chain ring.
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Old 11-04-21, 04:04 PM
  #374  
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So .... you guys are still taking @Moisture seriously?

I don't take moisture seriously unless it bespeaks of a leak in an HVAC or plumbing system .... or unless it is falling from the sky.

We all need a BF raincoat sometimes, I guess.
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Old 11-04-21, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
So .... you guys are still taking @Moisture seriously?

I don't take moisture seriously unless it bespeaks of a leak in an HVAC or plumbing system .... or unless it is falling from the sky.

We all need a BF raincoat sometimes, I guess.

We're all suffering from crank arm envy.
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