Vintage to Modern what to upgrade first
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Vintage to Modern what to upgrade first
Hi, I bought a Shogun Selectra a 2 months ago for around a $100 dlls, which is a good price for a working vintage in my area. I been using it to commute and I have began participating on group rides in my area, where i have noticed the age of the components and the quality began to show, I am having to go to the bike shop every other week to get my cranks tighten, true the wheels, and such. I really like the look of the bike, so I was thinking on modernizing it rather than buying a new one specialy 'cause it hurts me with the pandemic inflated prices. Pretty much everything is stock except the wheels that were 'upgraded' by the previous owner to a cheapo, 35mm deep 700c wheelset, and bought a saddle since the guy solded to me without one. Size 54cm current weight about 11.5kg (25lb).
Wanted to keep my budget under $600 but looking around the internet i don't think i'm going to find a groupset for around that price so might over a little bit.
What should I upgrade first rn I have $200 dlls saved up here are my options: (btw forgot to mention but tires also need to be changed)
Wanted to keep my budget under $600 but looking around the internet i don't think i'm going to find a groupset for around that price so might over a little bit.
What should I upgrade first rn I have $200 dlls saved up here are my options: (btw forgot to mention but tires also need to be changed)
- looking around the internet I found a good deal in some fulcrum 900 wheelset for $180 which would make my current budget go all towards that, and leaves me without tyres which is no biggie since i still have a couple miles on the current ones and I would have to run single speed for a while too since i don't have cassettes.
- or I could buy a new FSA Gossamer crankset, bottom bearing and tyres that I found for around 170 dlls.
- I also found a sweet deal on some 105 shifters but since i wouldn't be able to use them right away i'm letting pass probably, 140 dlls. + tyres prob.
- OR recommendations from you guys.
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Safety first. I suggest getting better brakes and brake pads. Shimano or Tektro brakes with Koolstop pads should serve you well.
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You should learn how to do some of the work yourself. IF YOU ARE TAKING IT TO THE LOCAL BIKE SHOP EVERY FOURTEEN DAYS TO GET YOUR CRANKS TIGHTENED AND YOUR WHEELS TRUED, DO NOT GO BACK TO THAT SHOP EVER AGAIN. Your Shogun is a pretty nice bike.
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I will take it into account, before this bike i was riding an old walmart mtb that braked surprisingly well, I thought that it had more to do with the fact that V brakes are just that more powerful, but maybe the pads haven't been change in a while, though a mechanic has never pointed it out.
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Check out this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ure-heavy.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ure-heavy.html
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Why? I can understand upgrading the pads but why the whole caliper? I suspect people have cycled enough miles to reach the end of the universe and a back with all manner of brakes before DPs came along and it isn't like high percentage of them have been killed because the brakes failed.
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I will take it into account, before this bike i was riding an old walmart mtb that braked surprisingly well, I thought that it had more to do with the fact that V brakes are just that more powerful, but maybe the pads haven't been change in a while, though a mechanic has never pointed it out.
Try and these Kool Stops
I agree with Classtime you need to find a different shop
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If I am finding the correct bike, that model is basically light action SIS 6 speed, low level alloy Shimano or Sugino crank, and Z series brakes.
The best upgrades are going to come cheaply, then little by little you can change the rest if you get attached to it.
i am thinking this would be a cool everything bike...road, gravel, etc...
Brake pads, tires, cables, bar tape, comfy saddle and maybe chain. Then ride it.
Any modernizing is going to be pretty much domino effect. And the OP should probably get a vision of what it might look like.
The best upgrades are going to come cheaply, then little by little you can change the rest if you get attached to it.
i am thinking this would be a cool everything bike...road, gravel, etc...
Brake pads, tires, cables, bar tape, comfy saddle and maybe chain. Then ride it.
Any modernizing is going to be pretty much domino effect. And the OP should probably get a vision of what it might look like.
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Don't forget to upgrade cables and cable housings, particularly for the brakes.
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What should I upgrade first rn I have $200 dlls saved up here are my options: (btw forgot to mention but tires also need to be changed)
- looking around the internet I found a good deal in some fulcrum 900 wheelset for $180 which would make my current budget go all towards that, and leaves me without tyres which is no biggie since i still have a couple miles on the current ones and I would have to run single speed for a while too since i don't have cassettes.
- or I could buy a new FSA Gossamer crankset, bottom bearing and tyres that I found for around 170 dlls.
- I also found a sweet deal on some 105 shifters but since i wouldn't be able to use them right away i'm letting pass probably, 140 dlls. + tyres prob.
- OR recommendations from you guys.
Youi need someone knowledgeable who is ethical and on your side to evaluate the mechanical condition of everything on a used bike of this age, that you bought for 100 bucks. I would advise against buying anything for it unless/until you find that person and get some in person advice. No one on the internet can actually see what's going on with your bike, and you have no idea of the mechanical service history of it.
I can only say I have ridden similar bikes thousands of miles, and never "upgraded" anything, except maybe the tyres, and retensioning the spokes.
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Why? I can understand upgrading the pads but why the whole caliper? I suspect people have cycled enough miles to reach the end of the universe and a back with all manner of brakes before DPs came along and it isn't like high percentage of them have been killed because the brakes failed.
#12
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Needing constant re-adjustment of cranks and wheels isn't a sign of age, it's a sign that the parts are damaged and/or the mechanic doesn't know what they're doing.
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@BrianSal05 if you can get to 10 posts, then you can post photos of your ride and that can help us help you a bit more/more easily. There is a Selectra at my local shop-grey with some cross-hatch graphics. Good looking bike.
To keep things cheap, it is good to learn and know how to do basic maintenance. Of course, needing the tools to do so costs money, so it's a bit of give and take as you save and spend for your bike--the upside being you keep your tool for later work on the bike--no spending money at a bike mechanic. Otherwise, you're at the mercy of either an incompetent mechanic or crummy components. How handy or skilled with tools are you (this is just a curious question)? Would you be willing to learn?
What is your local online marketplace like? Any good, or is online from a retailer or eBay better for you? As far as cheap groupsets, there are many used Shimano groupsets around. If looking for current or new, Shimano's R2000 generation of Claris (2x8 or 3x8 speed) is an excellent value. Beautiful components that have proven internals. Comfortable and capable. I have them on one of my bikes and I really like it. Shimano Sora as well. R3000 is the current generation, but there are previous ones that work just fine and no one cares about (meaning they are cheap to buy). I've never had issue with older 9-speed Sora shifters (3400 generation, IIRC), and they'll work with older Shimano SIS (indexing) derailleurs.
If you could prioritize what part of the bike needs the most help, that will help you and all of us sort your Shogun out. Mushy feeling brakes, weak brakes, hard to pull the levers, shifting is off, chain skips, tires are bald, wheels are loose or wobbly, chain squeaks, something is loose or clunks as you ride along, etc. Some things are safety-related, and those are generally good things to address first. Hope this helps.
To keep things cheap, it is good to learn and know how to do basic maintenance. Of course, needing the tools to do so costs money, so it's a bit of give and take as you save and spend for your bike--the upside being you keep your tool for later work on the bike--no spending money at a bike mechanic. Otherwise, you're at the mercy of either an incompetent mechanic or crummy components. How handy or skilled with tools are you (this is just a curious question)? Would you be willing to learn?
What is your local online marketplace like? Any good, or is online from a retailer or eBay better for you? As far as cheap groupsets, there are many used Shimano groupsets around. If looking for current or new, Shimano's R2000 generation of Claris (2x8 or 3x8 speed) is an excellent value. Beautiful components that have proven internals. Comfortable and capable. I have them on one of my bikes and I really like it. Shimano Sora as well. R3000 is the current generation, but there are previous ones that work just fine and no one cares about (meaning they are cheap to buy). I've never had issue with older 9-speed Sora shifters (3400 generation, IIRC), and they'll work with older Shimano SIS (indexing) derailleurs.
If you could prioritize what part of the bike needs the most help, that will help you and all of us sort your Shogun out. Mushy feeling brakes, weak brakes, hard to pull the levers, shifting is off, chain skips, tires are bald, wheels are loose or wobbly, chain squeaks, something is loose or clunks as you ride along, etc. Some things are safety-related, and those are generally good things to address first. Hope this helps.
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I don't think this bike had cotter pins.
Everyone..... I wonder if the OP is saying cranks tightened but it is actually the BB coming loose?
Everyone..... I wonder if the OP is saying cranks tightened but it is actually the BB coming loose?
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Cables , brake pads, tires, and bar tape.
Then start planning and saving
Then start planning and saving
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The most common damage is that the end of the spindle creates a burr in the hole. This is visible and often (about 80% of the time) careful filing of the burr will resolve the problem. The problem is most common with the softer/less dense, melt forged cranksets. I saw it a lot on recently purchased department store bicycles.
However, the hole can also be distorted and this is usually visible to the naked eye only in extreme cases. Distorted holes are rarely repairable, except by a machine shop, and even then refinishing of the hole often results in the removal of enough material to cause the spindle end to protrude beyond the bolt seat.
Regardless, I agree with member Classtime, the first thing that the OP needs to upgrade is his bicycle shop.
Last edited by T-Mar; 01-01-22 at 07:32 AM.
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Oops. Thread crossover disorder. Thought that post was in Atala thread.
m
That seems likely unless the tapers are completely buggered.
Everyone..... I wonder if the OP is saying cranks tightened but it is actually the BB coming loose?
That seems likely unless the tapers are completely buggered.
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If you need a shop to do any and all work, buy a lightly used modern bike instead.
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It could be a case of the crankarms coming loose. When a cotterless crankarm is insufficiently tightened and ridden loose, the steel spindle damages the tapered hole in the softer, aluminum crankarm. The damage can reach a point where loose crankarms become a chronic issue.
The most common damage is that the end of the spindle creates a burr in the hole. This is visible and often (about 80% of the time) careful filing of the burr will resolve the problem. The problem is most common with the softer/less dense, melt forged cranksets. I saw it a lot on recently purchased department store bicycles.
However, the hole can also be distorted and this is usually visible to the naked eye only in extreme cases. Distorted holes are rarely repairable, except by a machine shop, and even then refinishing of the hole often results in the removal of enough material to cause the spindle end to protrude beyond the bolt seat.
Regardless, I agree with member Classtime, the first thing that the OP needs to upgrade is his bicycle shop.
The most common damage is that the end of the spindle creates a burr in the hole. This is visible and often (about 80% of the time) careful filing of the burr will resolve the problem. The problem is most common with the softer/less dense, melt forged cranksets. I saw it a lot on recently purchased department store bicycles.
However, the hole can also be distorted and this is usually visible to the naked eye only in extreme cases. Distorted holes are rarely repairable, except by a machine shop, and even then refinishing of the hole often results in the removal of enough material to cause the spindle end to protrude beyond the bolt seat.
Regardless, I agree with member Classtime, the first thing that the OP needs to upgrade is his bicycle shop.
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the tapers are / were damaged in the past.
there is a mismatch and the spindle is at or beyond the base of the crank arm bore.
the tapers were greased prior to assembly-
( an ever so slight amount of grease, like clear the taper bore of the arm and wipe off what you can with clean fingers - then assemble)
not sure of the type bolts or nuts, 40-45 nm was typical for bolts.
that all typed, with a $600 budget, I would look for a better whole bike. Say in the $500 range leaving you some $ for consumables or parts you might need.
then you might sell off the first bike, transferring the saddle you like best.
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I will take it into account, before this bike i was riding an old walmart mtb that braked surprisingly well, I thought that it had more to do with the fact that V brakes are just that more powerful, but maybe the pads haven't been change in a while, though a mechanic has never pointed it out.
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You don't need new wheels just because the current ones keep going out of true. You need to find a good wheelbuilder that knows how to properly true and tension a wheel. What you're describing is THE classic symptom of uneven spoke tension. You're at risk of breaking spokes also, until you have that addressed by someone that knows what they're doing. You might find that your current bike shop doesn't even own a tensiometer, or have someone that knows how to use one. Ask them.
That said, wheels can definitely make a difference in the way a bike handles and performs so if the current ones are heavy or limit your tire choices, that's a valid reason to upgrade. But don't buy a new set of wheels because your current bike shop doesn't know what they're doing. The same is true for the rest of it. You don't need a new crankset just because your current bike shop can't properly diagnose why it keeps loosening. Maybe you just need a new bottom bracket.
If cost is no object that's one thing, but it sounds like you have a budget. I'd tend to focus on just getting it working in its current form, and just ride it. Then see what kinds of "upgrades" or modernization really make sense. That's a pretty decent bike and you might find that you like it better than you think you will. If you take it to a decent bike shop and have them do a complete overhaul, that should easily come in under $200 and might be the best way to spend money on that bike, for now.
That said, wheels can definitely make a difference in the way a bike handles and performs so if the current ones are heavy or limit your tire choices, that's a valid reason to upgrade. But don't buy a new set of wheels because your current bike shop doesn't know what they're doing. The same is true for the rest of it. You don't need a new crankset just because your current bike shop can't properly diagnose why it keeps loosening. Maybe you just need a new bottom bracket.
If cost is no object that's one thing, but it sounds like you have a budget. I'd tend to focus on just getting it working in its current form, and just ride it. Then see what kinds of "upgrades" or modernization really make sense. That's a pretty decent bike and you might find that you like it better than you think you will. If you take it to a decent bike shop and have them do a complete overhaul, that should easily come in under $200 and might be the best way to spend money on that bike, for now.
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Tires. The performance bang for your buck is biggest here.
Don't know why anyone would suggest swapping out brakes when the OP didn't mention anything about poor braking. I had no idea what a Shogun Selectra was until I clicked on the link from a previous thread. Looks like it's a good mmid-range road bike from that era.
Next I'd buy some tools and learn how to use them.
Don't know why anyone would suggest swapping out brakes when the OP didn't mention anything about poor braking. I had no idea what a Shogun Selectra was until I clicked on the link from a previous thread. Looks like it's a good mmid-range road bike from that era.
Next I'd buy some tools and learn how to use them.
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Hi, everyone. Just wanted to let you know we blasted the OP out of orbit with all our responses and am suggesting we wait until he responds (if at all) before we throw a million more things at him or repeat what others have said.
And since I am enjoying the complete lack of relevant photos, here are some Selectras for your viewing pleasure:
This is the same color scheme as the one at Bike Works. If you want to see it in person and wear glasses, it will be in focus...
I did not know these came in a freaking sweet pink color. I wish Shogun was not so stridently stingy with this model that they refused a second pair of bottle cage bosses throughout its years (however many there were).
And since I am enjoying the complete lack of relevant photos, here are some Selectras for your viewing pleasure:
This is the same color scheme as the one at Bike Works. If you want to see it in person and wear glasses, it will be in focus...
I did not know these came in a freaking sweet pink color. I wish Shogun was not so stridently stingy with this model that they refused a second pair of bottle cage bosses throughout its years (however many there were).