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Never leave big ring

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Never leave big ring

Old 01-09-22, 01:58 AM
  #26  
ChamoisDavisJr
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When I’m in the BIG RING and dropping the group, I’ll sometimes pretend I’m adjusting the strap on my Birkenstocks…and soft pedal a while to let the slowies catch up.

What gets really annoying with BIG RING riding, alone, is that even after dragging brakes for ten minutes once everyone finally catches up…they’re still out of breath. SMDH.

So yes stay in the BIG RING.
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Old 01-09-22, 07:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
The best way to train to be fast is ofc, spin big gears and that includes climbing.
You're privy to the best training advice? Do tell.
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Old 01-09-22, 07:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
If you're never going to leave the big ring, you might as well build a nice house with a nice garden in it and tell the kids to move out when they hit 18.
.
I’ve only had one cup of coffee so far this morning…But wtf?
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Old 01-09-22, 08:09 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ChamoisDavisJr View Post
When I’m in the BIG RING and dropping the group, I’ll sometimes pretend I’m adjusting the strap on my Birkenstocks…and soft pedal a while to let the slowies catch up.

What gets really annoying with BIG RING riding, alone, is that even after dragging brakes for ten minutes once everyone finally catches up…they’re still out of breath. SMDH.

So yes stay in the BIG RING.
That's when you grab the handle of Vodka
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Old 01-09-22, 08:15 AM
  #30  
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Big Ring Small Rider.
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Old 01-09-22, 09:40 AM
  #31  
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LarrySellerz , it would be interesting if you posted a picture of your bike. Your posts often raise questions about your equipment and while the same people that goof on you may goof on your bike, you may get some good advice and constructive criticism from others. By the way, my hat is off to you for continuing to seek a group to ride with despite some of your negative experiences.
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Old 01-09-22, 11:18 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
Big Ring Small Rider.
Correction: Giant ring, small rider.
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Old 01-09-22, 01:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
Big Ring Small Rider.
But that's in the small ring.
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Old 01-09-22, 04:31 PM
  #34  
PeteHski
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
Big Ring Small Rider.
I've seen this pic before around here. Anyone know the story behind it?
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Old 01-10-22, 11:31 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
Big Ring Small Rider.
Small rider on a Giant bike!
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Old 01-10-22, 11:58 AM
  #36  
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Change to the little ring if you feel like you would like your legs to be spinning faster. There is no one rule for when and how you use your chainrings.

However, in my experience, there are lots of hills and roads that are much more efficient to ride in a larger gear - there can be a threshold speed, below which the effort to keep moving goes way up, like at faster speeds you float over road irregularities, but slower and your tires fall into and must climb out of or over every tiny dip or bump. With this in mind, it is likely OPs group is giving him advice to raise his performance level. They aren't saying 'small chainrings not allowed' but 'if you want to hang with our group then learn to crank up the hills a bit faster". If OP has legs that can spin like a sewing machine motor, maybe he can keep up while using the small ring. An advantage of bigger gears is that when you stand up to pedal - like when you need to put max torque into the chain for a climb - it's much easier to crank a big gear slowly than to spin a small gear.
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Old 01-10-22, 12:26 PM
  #37  
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I think it's pointless to talk in general terms like "using the big ring only" or "using the small ring sometimes." Is your big ring 53 teeth, 52, or maybe only 48? What's the range of your cassette? 11-27, 12-34, or ?

I could be on my small ring and the middle of my cassette with a higher ratio than someone on his big ring and biggest cog.

I used to ride with a friend who would sometimes set a goal for himself to not leave his big ring through an entire ride. He was a strong climber and had personal ambitions to improve his mashing ability. He might just as well have chosen to stay on cogs 21 teeth or smaller regardless of chainring selection, but it's easier to watch and it's also psychologically more impactful when you just decide to not shift down in the front.

In any case, it's really about your current fitness level vs. your goals. Some guys might want to never let their cadence drop below 90, or power never less than 150W (these can be impractical on mixed terrain; more feasible on flats). Personally, I like developing my overall riding skills. I want to improve my abilities to spin fast, to mash hard, to keep a moderate effort for increasing durations, etc. Mostly, I want to get better/faster at riding in real world scenarios, where a variety of skills are necessary. Sometimes others give me worthwhile advice, but I would disregard anything as general as "don't use your big ring."
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Old 01-10-22, 12:54 PM
  #38  
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Broctoon There is a small advantage to using a larger chainring/cog over a smaller chainring/cog with the same ratio (like 50-25 vs 38-19) - the smaller gears will need higher chain tension for the same power output and speed, and this can increase friction and wear in the chain and drivetrain - admittedly a very small amount - but a difference nonetheless.
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Old 01-10-22, 04:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ClydeClydeson View Post
Broctoon There is a small advantage to using a larger chainring/cog over a smaller chainring/cog with the same ratio (like 50-25 vs 38-19) - the smaller gears will need higher chain tension for the same power output and speed, and this can increase friction and wear in the chain and drivetrain - admittedly a very small amount - but a difference nonetheless.
I know. There’s also an efficiency advantage with bigger gears, perhaps a Watt or two? My point is that you stay in the big chain ring because you want to meet your personal goal of staying in the big chain ring—for your own reasons. You don’t recommend it to everyone as a universally applicable technique.

Maybe Larry’s friend recommended it based on something specific he knew Larry was trying to achieve. He could also have suggested to stay in an overall ratio 20% higher than usual, not important how this is obtained.
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Old 01-10-22, 05:15 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ClydeClydeson View Post
Broctoon There is a small advantage to using a larger chainring/cog over a smaller chainring/cog with the same ratio (like 50-25 vs 38-19) - the smaller gears will need higher chain tension for the same power output and speed, and this can increase friction and wear in the chain and drivetrain - admittedly a very small amount - but a difference nonetheless.
Frictional difference is in the noise compared to the actual gear ratio. Like in your example above riding a 50-25 is going to feel exactly like riding a 38-19 in the real world, even if you lose a tiny bit of efficiency with the latter.
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Old 01-10-22, 05:57 PM
  #41  
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I dunno. My leg got pulled so hard on his last thread it fell off.
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Old 01-11-22, 01:48 AM
  #42  
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This is actually what I tell my friends to do sometimes. Use the momentum, stay in the big ring, and power thru for the 30s or so to crest the bump. Obviously doesn't apply if it's too long or too steep, use your intuition.
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Old 01-11-22, 05:16 PM
  #43  
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Greg LeMond coached me to HTFU and power up the grade in the big ring to trigger my mitochondrial biogenesis, rinse lactic acid on the descent, then, do another hill in the big chainring.

Climb, rinse, repeat.
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Old 01-11-22, 06:52 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
.... and tell the kids to move out when they hit 18
And the problem with this is ???? Kids are too soft these days, but that is my generations fault I guess. My kids had 1 move back, once they moved out the second time, that was it, you are on your own. If you were over 18, living in our house and employed, you paid rent and utilities. We did not pay for their phones, cars, or car insurance. The old saying ... give them a fish or teach them to fish.

I have friends that have kids in the mid 30's still living at home, and they have their own kids, like it is nothing.... Can't do that, you have to go.
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Old 01-11-22, 07:36 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by genejockey View Post
Hey! Great meeting you this morning! Did you ever catch the Spectrum guys?

Are the guys telling you to stick with the big ring only skinny? Because if they are, they don't know. Big guys like us use all the gears. Don't let people who aren't 1) your size, or 2) riding your bike with your bike's gearing tell you what you should do.

BTW, if your derailleur isn't shifting into ALL the gears, you should get it fixed. Might be the limit screws, might be the hanger. In either case, eminently fixable.
146lbs here and use every single one of my gears. I even installed a 40T for the gravel wheel set. ha-ha
My knees not at happy grinding while sitting down for long duration.

If someone could invent a smooth shifting 1x 40T front and 20 speed on the back 10-80 I would be first in line.
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Old 01-12-22, 01:06 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ClydeClydeson View Post
Broctoon There is a small advantage to using a larger chainring/cog over a smaller chainring/cog with the same ratio (like 50-25 vs 38-19) - the smaller gears will need higher chain tension for the same power output and speed, and this can increase friction and wear in the chain and drivetrain - admittedly a very small amount - but a difference nonetheless.
The amount of cross chaining in the above two combinations could also have an effect on the already small efficiency difference.
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