Help with and opinions about Shimano Front Freewheel System
#51
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Got the fixed rear cluster from Catywompus (thanks!) in the mail yesterday and I played around with it a bit tonight before installing it on the bike. It is very clearly labelled for use ONLY with Shimano FF System, and each ring does feel like it has a bit of clutch action built into it. Maybe the fixed 5 speed with no clutch was a really early version that they had to rethink when they realized the damage it could do! Hopefully they weren't forced to add the clutch after someone was really hurt badly.
#52
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I was a Schwinn mechanic during that time (1979-1984). I got to put together dozens of FFS bikes and all of them came with this FFS freewheel. I also got taught how to remove & install the FFS freewheel on the Ashtabula crank- it took a special tool to remove it whole.
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I guess it's worth checking these bikes out to make sure they still work right. that would be an inconvenient place for a little rust or something.
#54
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The cluster I worked on was VERY stiff from sitting in a barn for 20 years. I sprayed, soaked, & in general lubed it up. broke free and spun the individual gears with a channel lock. When it was done it was much smoother but still took considerable effort to spin the cogs especially the smaller ones. I did not have a remover that fit it so paid the $5 at the LBS to have it removed, but that included a better chrome dork disc too.
#55
Still learning
FFS BB Cups and Freewheel - Getting rid of it!
I'm in the process of modifying a Panasonic Villager Mixte with 26" MTB wheels, by pulling the %&*# FFS system and putting a conventional spindle and crankset in, along with a conventional freewheel and new derailleurs.
I have the cranks off, the chainwheel and bearings removed, and now I can't quite figure out how to remove the cups from the BB shell.
Any suggestions? Hopefully, no special tools are required.
Furthermore, will a conventional freewheel fit on the hub that the 5 speed fixed freewheel?
I have the cranks off, the chainwheel and bearings removed, and now I can't quite figure out how to remove the cups from the BB shell.
Any suggestions? Hopefully, no special tools are required.
Furthermore, will a conventional freewheel fit on the hub that the 5 speed fixed freewheel?
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The cups aren't threaded in or anything...
Standard freewheel will spin right on.
Standard freewheel will spin right on.
#57
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The cups ARE threaded into the frame, a TL20 or similar is required to remove them - same tool as the rear cog set. The BB area of the frame is standard English 68mm wide, installing a modern BB is no problem.
The rear hub is also standard threading, so, yes any standard freewheel will fit.
The rear hub is also standard threading, so, yes any standard freewheel will fit.
#58
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This a post in my blog about the Nishiki FFS 10 speed I had (since sold). https://onespeedbiker.blogspot.com/20...-with-ffs.html It was also featured on the Old Ten Speed Gallery https://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-.../#.UJdosmfi7To. This version of the FFS had a cottered 3 piece crank and pre-Positron Shimano 400FF rear derailleur, which was a beefed up version of the 400 pre-positron derailleur at the time.
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 11-05-12 at 01:20 AM.
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Let's clear up some misconceptions.
The cups are threaded (1.37 x 24T - English), but since they're external there's no need to remove them for maintenance, unless they're pitted or worn out. They do use the early Shimano splined freewheel remover.
Due to the external bearings, you do not have to remove the freewheel mechanism for bottom bracket maintenance. Once you remove the adjustable side locknut, washer and cone, you can pull the freewheel/spindle out from the drive side. Treat the freewheel like a standard freewheel. Only go into it if necessary and the issues don't respond to flushing.
The rear friction freewheel was in use from day one. Any "fixed" freewheels are simply gummed up friction freewheels. The friction freewheels will never spin as freely as a normal freewheel. They are not intended to. The FFS will not work unless the drag on the rear freewheel is higher. Installing a normal rear freewheel may prevent the FFS from functioning or cause intermittent functioning.
FFS was available in three versions; single piece Ashtabula style, cottered steel and cotterless aluminum. The Ashtabula style was a concession to the marketers. It allowed them to hit a very low price point. It appealed to the people brought up on Schwinns with Ashatabula style cranks and who were sceptical of the "new fangled European cranks". This was a significant market segment.
FFS, in conjunction with Positron, achieved its goals, which was to virtually mistakeproof shifting for the newbie. Many people were initimidated by derailleurs. Ask any mechanic of the era and they will tell you that most entry level derailleur bicycles were left in one gear once a comfortable gear was found. People wanted to be part of the new fad but suffered from derailleur anxiety syndrome. A lot of people who would otherwise have never got into cycling, were persuaded by FFS and Positron.
Positron and FFS were not market failures. They were marketed from at least 1977-1984 inclusive. There's no way Shimano would have kept a product on the market for 8 years if it wasn't selling.
The cups are threaded (1.37 x 24T - English), but since they're external there's no need to remove them for maintenance, unless they're pitted or worn out. They do use the early Shimano splined freewheel remover.
Due to the external bearings, you do not have to remove the freewheel mechanism for bottom bracket maintenance. Once you remove the adjustable side locknut, washer and cone, you can pull the freewheel/spindle out from the drive side. Treat the freewheel like a standard freewheel. Only go into it if necessary and the issues don't respond to flushing.
The rear friction freewheel was in use from day one. Any "fixed" freewheels are simply gummed up friction freewheels. The friction freewheels will never spin as freely as a normal freewheel. They are not intended to. The FFS will not work unless the drag on the rear freewheel is higher. Installing a normal rear freewheel may prevent the FFS from functioning or cause intermittent functioning.
FFS was available in three versions; single piece Ashtabula style, cottered steel and cotterless aluminum. The Ashtabula style was a concession to the marketers. It allowed them to hit a very low price point. It appealed to the people brought up on Schwinns with Ashatabula style cranks and who were sceptical of the "new fangled European cranks". This was a significant market segment.
FFS, in conjunction with Positron, achieved its goals, which was to virtually mistakeproof shifting for the newbie. Many people were initimidated by derailleurs. Ask any mechanic of the era and they will tell you that most entry level derailleur bicycles were left in one gear once a comfortable gear was found. People wanted to be part of the new fad but suffered from derailleur anxiety syndrome. A lot of people who would otherwise have never got into cycling, were persuaded by FFS and Positron.
Positron and FFS were not market failures. They were marketed from at least 1977-1984 inclusive. There's no way Shimano would have kept a product on the market for 8 years if it wasn't selling.
#61
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I think they were cool. My wife had zero complaints about her Panasonic Tourist with FFS. The next geared bike she liked was a 2002 GT with thumb/forefinger shifting.
#62
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Just picked up a Schwinn World Tourist women's bike and discovered the front freewheel. Am looking forward to tinkering with it--always something new to discover.
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