Tips For Getting Tire Pump Off of the Valve Gently
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,903
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4805 Post(s)
Liked 3,927 Times
in
2,553 Posts
I lent my HP to a clubmate; skinny 45 yo engineer/roadie to pump his tires to 120 for the club TT. He did it easily. I'[m sure booth could have gone the last 20 psi to your pressures. (And what do you do that requires 140psi? Velodrome?)
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
I guess I’m just weird. I’ve got this crazy notion about using the proper tools for the job. Sure, I could just as easily use a pair of vice grips to install my pedals... but...why?
#28
senior member
I'm running 700x25 now but a few years ago it was 700x23 and during that time higher pressures were common and the thinking of the period - having rock hard tires was the goal and the thinking at the LBS - you generally want higher pressure as the width decreases but boy I'd think at 140 psi you would feel every little bump in the road
#29
Junior Member
If you use Schrader valves exclusively, you might try a pump chuck designed for Schrader valves. The “Universal” chucks are going to be very tight on a Schrader valve, because they also have to work on skinny Presta valves. If you use both, consider two pumps, or a chuck with dual orifaces.
Likes For SquireBlack:
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 712
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times
in
164 Posts
Like Andy said, first spit in the chuck. Turn the wheel so as the valve is at the top, 12 o’clock. Then when you remove the chuck you can pull straight down, supported by the concrete.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
#32
Senior Member
I used to run my 700x23 tires at 105-110 but then switched to 28fr 25r and run them at 95. But then again I used to run my 700x19 tires at 110 and they were like riding rocks. Those were the days when skinny clinchers were the thing and real racers used tubulars.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
Also, having lower front pressures makes a lot of sense since it softens the shock on the upper body making for more fatigue free riding.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
Bumps and road vibration don't make me tired.
Last edited by smd4; 05-07-22 at 04:24 PM.
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
smd4 - just curious: what are your favorite tires? Also, can you comment on the road surfaces you typically ride?
edit: I just did some quick research and see where you are running Velomax Master 700x23's.
edit: I just did some quick research and see where you are running Velomax Master 700x23's.
Last edited by masi61; 05-07-22 at 04:37 PM.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
I would prefer older Continentals in 700x20, but I like the Veloflex Masters I'm riding now, especially for their higher pressure. If Avocet was still around, I'd be riding their slicks. I mostly ride the local roads and greenways in and around Wake Forest. The surfaces are generally in very good condition. I'm no racer. But I do appreciate the riding characteristics and feel of quality racing machines.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
I would prefer older Continentals in 700x20, but I like the Veloflex Masters I'm riding now, especially for their higher pressure. If Avocet was still around, I'd be riding their slicks. I mostly ride the local roads and greenways in and around Wake Forest. The surfaces are generally in very good condition. I'm no racer. But I do appreciate the riding characteristics and feel of quality racing machines.
I'm not seeking arguments because everybody has their personal version of their own "Goldilox" ride, but I would be curious to know - what is your objection to the idea of road tubeless? Also, I think I saw in another thread where your main ride is a (steel) Cinelli. Must be great at dampening road vibration on its own so maxing out tire pressure can be done without losing that magical steel ride quality.
My aluminum framed Flyte SRS3 is a bike I love (usually) but if I could not run at least 25's with latex tubes my Flyte would be known as the "pain sled".
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
Oh, no, I'm not "hard core" at all. More like "soft gut." I'm using Vittoria latex tubes.
I would never want to deal with all the goop that goes into a tubeless system. Plus, why spend the money when I don't need to? Going tubeless looks like too much of a PITA for me.
Yes, I've had my Dura-Ace equipped Supercorsa for over 20 years now. During the lockdown, I had a lot of fun upgrading it--installing a titanium rear axle, ceramic bearings, better cables. I guess this is my "mid-life crisis" project. If I had the money, I'd have a Ferrari. But the Cinelli is a fine substitute.
It's sad to say, but I've never ridden a quality aluminum bike.
I would never want to deal with all the goop that goes into a tubeless system. Plus, why spend the money when I don't need to? Going tubeless looks like too much of a PITA for me.
Yes, I've had my Dura-Ace equipped Supercorsa for over 20 years now. During the lockdown, I had a lot of fun upgrading it--installing a titanium rear axle, ceramic bearings, better cables. I guess this is my "mid-life crisis" project. If I had the money, I'd have a Ferrari. But the Cinelli is a fine substitute.
It's sad to say, but I've never ridden a quality aluminum bike.
Likes For smd4:
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
Firstly, I acknowledge that this is a pretty lame question as far as bike "mechanics" go.
In an attempt to be responsible cyclist, I try to check my tire pressure at least every third ride. I check every ride if I'm going to be far from home.
I struggle mightily to get the pump attachment off of the valve when I'm done pumping. This is especially the case for my Schrader valves. I wind up twisting and prying the valves vigorously. I'm worried that:
1) This will damage the valve and cause the very flats that I seek to avoid and/or;
2) I lose a lot of tire pressure in this process on my smaller tires an wind up going through the exercise two or three times.
Anybody know of a way that I might improve the situation?
Are some pumps better than others in this regard?
Is there some technique I don't know about?
Is there a little gadget on the market that would help me to pull the pump attachment from the valves more cleanly?
It sucks starting every ride wondering if I've torn a crack where my valve adjoins my tube as a result of incompetence.
In an attempt to be responsible cyclist, I try to check my tire pressure at least every third ride. I check every ride if I'm going to be far from home.
I struggle mightily to get the pump attachment off of the valve when I'm done pumping. This is especially the case for my Schrader valves. I wind up twisting and prying the valves vigorously. I'm worried that:
1) This will damage the valve and cause the very flats that I seek to avoid and/or;
2) I lose a lot of tire pressure in this process on my smaller tires an wind up going through the exercise two or three times.
Anybody know of a way that I might improve the situation?
Are some pumps better than others in this regard?
Is there some technique I don't know about?
Is there a little gadget on the market that would help me to pull the pump attachment from the valves more cleanly?
It sucks starting every ride wondering if I've torn a crack where my valve adjoins my tube as a result of incompetence.
Could you update us in what beneficial tips you have learned +/or reiterate again what inflation related techniques you still are seeking to perfect?
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
Sounds like a quality thread-on Schrader chuck would be the easiest, cheapest and best solution to the OPs problem.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,549
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,581 Times
in
2,342 Posts
don't push the chuck head on so far. I push mine on just far enough to pump air. makes getting them off a lot easier. you know you haven't pushed in on far enough if it pops off while pumping. if it doesn't pop off, you're good
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Firstly, thank you all for your generous assistance.
What I'm seeking to perfect is any means of checking and inflating my tires before each ride without:
a) Hurting my hands and;
b) Feeling as though I'm visiting inappropriate violence upon my valves.
I've not yet had a chance to experiment with all of the proposed solutions but hope to in the future. For now, I'm doing this:
1) A little karate chopping.
2) I've got a spray bottle with some water and Dawn in it that I'm applying to the valves.
3) I've ordered a $75CAD Lezyne Floor Drive pump that has a screw on chuck rather than a lever setup. I'm hopeful about this solution and $75CAD seems like a fair price to pay to, potentially, have a much better tire inflation experience 150 times each year. If it's awesome, I'll consider the Silca Pista in the future @ $200 CAD. This may well be one of those situations where I regret not "going big or going" home, we'll see. I was able to try out the Lezyne in personal locally and was not able to do the same for the Silca. That swayed by decision a fair bit.
a) Hurting my hands and;
b) Feeling as though I'm visiting inappropriate violence upon my valves.
I've not yet had a chance to experiment with all of the proposed solutions but hope to in the future. For now, I'm doing this:
1) A little karate chopping.
2) I've got a spray bottle with some water and Dawn in it that I'm applying to the valves.
3) I've ordered a $75CAD Lezyne Floor Drive pump that has a screw on chuck rather than a lever setup. I'm hopeful about this solution and $75CAD seems like a fair price to pay to, potentially, have a much better tire inflation experience 150 times each year. If it's awesome, I'll consider the Silca Pista in the future @ $200 CAD. This may well be one of those situations where I regret not "going big or going" home, we'll see. I was able to try out the Lezyne in personal locally and was not able to do the same for the Silca. That swayed by decision a fair bit.
Likes For Harold74:
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm embarrassed to admit that I still don't fully understand this solution. If I get one of those chucks, what then is the pump? Do I hook it up to an air compressor hose or something? Or are there floor pumps that have the hose and the chucks can be swapped out? I suspect that I'm missing some critical little bit of information that would allow me to "get" this. By now, I'm sure that it will come as little surprise that I'm not very mechanically inclined.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
I'm embarrassed to admit that I still don't fully understand this solution. If I get one of those chucks, what then is the pump? Do I hook it up to an air compressor hose or something? Or are there floor pumps that have the hose and the chucks can be swapped out? I suspect that I'm missing some critical little bit of information that would allow me to "get" this. By now, I'm sure that it will come as little surprise that I'm not very mechanically inclined.
You should be able to buy a similar aftermarket Schrader chuck, remove the chuck at the end of your current pump’s hose, and install the new chuck. You can also upgrade to a compressor if you want. Your choice.
Not sure I can simplify this any more.
Sounds like the Lezyne may be a good solution.
Last edited by smd4; 05-09-22 at 05:39 PM.
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,678
Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked 581 Times
in
409 Posts
I would only recommend a tiny amount of this or someones similar product: Dow Corning Molykote 55 Oring grease.
Manmade or natural rubber dry out and wear, this will help prevent that and on some o-rings it will ever so slightly swell the rubber, it is used every where in industrial maintenance for hydraulic systems, etc. I rotate through bikes daily so pump a lot and have original o-rings and gaskets in my ancient pumps.
Manmade or natural rubber dry out and wear, this will help prevent that and on some o-rings it will ever so slightly swell the rubber, it is used every where in industrial maintenance for hydraulic systems, etc. I rotate through bikes daily so pump a lot and have original o-rings and gaskets in my ancient pumps.
Likes For easyupbug:
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
@Harold74 - Well you already bought a pump. If you want to try a Silca out, look for used ones of the older generation that were made in Italy. I found mine for $50 and have been using it for 12 years. Parts are readily available today for nearly every previous generation.
My approach is to use my air compressor to get me to 110 and then use the Silca to take it the rest of the way, 130 PSI on Vittoria G+ in 700-23/25 clinchers and sew-ups. They ride better for me at those pressures than anything lower. The bikes are a 1988 De Rosa Professional and a 1991 Pinarello Montello.
My approach is to use my air compressor to get me to 110 and then use the Silca to take it the rest of the way, 130 PSI on Vittoria G+ in 700-23/25 clinchers and sew-ups. They ride better for me at those pressures than anything lower. The bikes are a 1988 De Rosa Professional and a 1991 Pinarello Montello.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#47
senior member
@Harold74 - Well you already bought a pump. If you want to try a Silca out, look for used ones of the older generation that were made in Italy. I found mine for $50 and have been using it for 12 years. Parts are readily available today for nearly every previous generation.
My approach is to use my air compressor to get me to 110 and then use the Silca to take it the rest of the way, 130 PSI on Vittoria G+ in 700-23/25 clinchers and sew-ups. They ride better for me at those pressures than anything lower. The bikes are a 1988 De Rosa Professional and a 1991 Pinarello Montello.
My approach is to use my air compressor to get me to 110 and then use the Silca to take it the rest of the way, 130 PSI on Vittoria G+ in 700-23/25 clinchers and sew-ups. They ride better for me at those pressures than anything lower. The bikes are a 1988 De Rosa Professional and a 1991 Pinarello Montello.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,784
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3505 Post(s)
Liked 2,924 Times
in
1,774 Posts
Maybe his compressor doesn't go that high?
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
It shuts off at about 120 and turns back on just under 100. Too unreliable and I only need to do about 10 pumps on the Silca to get it where I want, 125f/130r.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#50
senior member
Right my Craftsman 1 1/2 also has a limit at 120 or 125 - for years I liked to be at 120psi but 90-100 is plenty hard for me now - why more pressure on the rear wheel , heavy saddle bags ?