Recommend a chain link tool?
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Recommend a chain link tool?
For popping chain links on or off. Any decent ones? I saw two on Amazon but I'm confused about which type I need.
I don't have a chain that uses extra snap on links for sure. Mine is popping the pin out.
I'm going to track down which type of chain I've got. It's in another post.
I don't have a chain that uses extra snap on links for sure. Mine is popping the pin out.
I'm going to track down which type of chain I've got. It's in another post.
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They all pretty much work. The chief difference is the larger and more sturdy lasts much longer.
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Should be it.
My bike.
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia
And the chain that came with it. I don't remember having it replaced before. (It will be at some point. I want to get this tool ordered soon, like today probably.)
ChainKMC HG40, 1/2 x 3/32"
My bike.
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia
And the chain that came with it. I don't remember having it replaced before. (It will be at some point. I want to get this tool ordered soon, like today probably.)
ChainKMC HG40, 1/2 x 3/32"
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This is one I had on my list. I remember seeing a different model though. Maybe it doesn't really matter.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CT-3...A1B7M9EQGNCLQA
[h=1]Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3.2[/h]
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CT-3...A1B7M9EQGNCLQA
[h=1]Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3.2[/h]
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Yes. Here are some others.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Chain-T...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Master Chain Tool - CT-4.3
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mini...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool - CT-5
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Prof...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3
Is a chain link tool a chain link tool then?
My criteria:
Quality. I'm not screwing around with a crappy tool. If I'm repairing my bike it means it doesn't ride and it's probably a stressful time for me because of that. It needs to work again soon if I'm repairing it. I don't want to be limited by the tool. And if I can't repair it and I can't ride it, that means I'm taking it to a shop which I don't want to do. But I'll have to pay the shop. So why not spend more on the tool in the first place?
Thanks for answers here.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Chain-T...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Master Chain Tool - CT-4.3
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mini...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool - CT-5
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Prof...ark+Tool+chain
Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3
Is a chain link tool a chain link tool then?
My criteria:
Quality. I'm not screwing around with a crappy tool. If I'm repairing my bike it means it doesn't ride and it's probably a stressful time for me because of that. It needs to work again soon if I'm repairing it. I don't want to be limited by the tool. And if I can't repair it and I can't ride it, that means I'm taking it to a shop which I don't want to do. But I'll have to pay the shop. So why not spend more on the tool in the first place?
Thanks for answers here.
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This is one I had on my list. I remember seeing a different model though. Maybe it doesn't really matter.
Amazon.com : Park Chain Hand Tool : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors
[h=1]Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3.2[/h]
Amazon.com : Park Chain Hand Tool : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors
[h=1]Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3.2[/h]
Any of those will work. The difference is the less expensive one you have won't last twenty years of use. A chain needs to be replaced every 2,000 to 5,000 miles of riding. That means you use the tool to press out a pin and push the replacement back in. So you can see unless you put lots of miles on the bike in extreme conditions with by hard riding, the tool doesn't get much use.
Last edited by StanSeven; 03-24-16 at 11:54 AM.
#7
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NB: You can Only "pop" a quick link on and off *.you cannot "Pop" a pin back in a chain , you can only remove it ,
and thus shorten a derailleur chain.
*for that Park Tool makes a Pair of Pliers.
Only the old style chains that are just for 1 speed bikes and not bent to shift can you reliably press a Pin Back in.
(& then Only if you did Not push it all the way Out!!)
and thus shorten a derailleur chain.
*for that Park Tool makes a Pair of Pliers.
Only the old style chains that are just for 1 speed bikes and not bent to shift can you reliably press a Pin Back in.
(& then Only if you did Not push it all the way Out!!)
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-24-16 at 12:52 PM.
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I've been using a Park CT-5 for years. It's not as comfortable in the hand as their bigger tools, but it does the job. It's not spec'd for 11-speed chains, but I've used it with a few successfully.
I recently picked up a used Park CT-3 on the cheap. It mangled a plate on the first chain I tried to use it with (an 11-speed SRAM chain). That may be the expected result of using a tool that isn't meant for 11-speed chains on an 11-speed chain, but I also noticed that one of the "fins" on the tool is a bit bent. The CT-5 broke the same chain without a problem. The CT-3 feels much nicer.
I like using "master links" for assembly. It's much easier than trying to push pins in and get them moving freely.
I'm considering dropping the big bucks on a CT-4.3 because I'm about to install an 11-speed Campagnolo group (which requires the "peening" feature), but I'm also considering just getting the CT-3.2 and using a non-Campy master link.
I recently picked up a used Park CT-3 on the cheap. It mangled a plate on the first chain I tried to use it with (an 11-speed SRAM chain). That may be the expected result of using a tool that isn't meant for 11-speed chains on an 11-speed chain, but I also noticed that one of the "fins" on the tool is a bit bent. The CT-5 broke the same chain without a problem. The CT-3 feels much nicer.
I like using "master links" for assembly. It's much easier than trying to push pins in and get them moving freely.
I'm considering dropping the big bucks on a CT-4.3 because I'm about to install an 11-speed Campagnolo group (which requires the "peening" feature), but I'm also considering just getting the CT-3.2 and using a non-Campy master link.
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#9
Constant tinkerer
Park CT-5 is fine for carrying on the bike or occasional light duty use.
For today's modern chains with rivets that are tough to break, get a CT-3 (or 3.2) and be done with it.
For today's modern chains with rivets that are tough to break, get a CT-3 (or 3.2) and be done with it.
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What? I remember doing this at least until 9-speed chains came along. Even a few times when I got the pin out all the way by mistake.
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#11
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Goo you can go over there and help that guy out in person ..
I did close the Loop on Sedisport chains in the 80s , before any quick links were Invented ..
But I'm realistic on the capabilities of people posting stuff in this forum and shopping at Amazon .. they may not Know ,
How to do stuff old guys learned over the past 50 years ..
I did close the Loop on Sedisport chains in the 80s , before any quick links were Invented ..
But I'm realistic on the capabilities of people posting stuff in this forum and shopping at Amazon .. they may not Know ,
How to do stuff old guys learned over the past 50 years ..
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The last chain I replaced years ago on a different bike was the snap on kind.
It looks like chains come longer than you need so it's always removing, except at the end you'd have to push a pin in to connect the last one.
And I'm concerned about my current chain. (It's worn and should be replaced, yes.) If it breaks, I could use a chain tool to push pins back in to make it last a little longer. So maybe there are extra chain pins I can get.... (Are there?) I'm going to get a few snap on links to have on hand.
It looks like chains come longer than you need so it's always removing, except at the end you'd have to push a pin in to connect the last one.
And I'm concerned about my current chain. (It's worn and should be replaced, yes.) If it breaks, I could use a chain tool to push pins back in to make it last a little longer. So maybe there are extra chain pins I can get.... (Are there?) I'm going to get a few snap on links to have on hand.
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Use the tool to trim the chain to size but then add a connecting link for easy removal for cleaning and repairs...
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Where does that connecting link come from though? The other pins? It doesn't damage them when you use a chain tool to push them out? I can reuse that link? If they sell extras I wouldn't mind having a few around.
#17
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KMC and whipperman have a special Link that uses a Key hole lock to secure it in use then when you squeeze the rollers together it will Open
Now derailleur chains are made with such design tolerances that you remove a few links to shorten it, save that section .
because if you break the chain You have to remove the damaged section making it even shorter , then with the saved length and a couple More quick links you restore the length.
'
side plate holes have to stretch to push the riveted pin head out the hole will always be loose ever after . so pushing the pin back in expect it to break ther again because it is loose .
and to fit more "speeds" the chains got thinner and the riveted pin is flush with the widest link of the chain so very little remains retaining it in a Loose hole.
Now derailleur chains are made with such design tolerances that you remove a few links to shorten it, save that section .
because if you break the chain You have to remove the damaged section making it even shorter , then with the saved length and a couple More quick links you restore the length.
'
side plate holes have to stretch to push the riveted pin head out the hole will always be loose ever after . so pushing the pin back in expect it to break ther again because it is loose .
and to fit more "speeds" the chains got thinner and the riveted pin is flush with the widest link of the chain so very little remains retaining it in a Loose hole.
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Once chains got narrower than 5/6-speed width the ability to safely push out and reuse a standard pin to rejoin the chain was lost. With newer chains (6/7/8-speed and above) you must use a special manufacturer supplied joining pin to connect them (Shimano or Campy) or a supplied master link (SRAM, KMC and Wipperman). The master links can be used to join Shimano and Campy chains if you buy them as aftermarket parts.
A chain tool is still needed to size new chain to the correct length and to install the specific Shimano and Campy joining pins. Master links can usually be installed without any tools but a special pair of pliers can be useful to remove them.
A chain tool is still needed to size new chain to the correct length and to install the specific Shimano and Campy joining pins. Master links can usually be installed without any tools but a special pair of pliers can be useful to remove them.
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For popping chain links on or off. Any decent ones? I saw two on Amazon but I'm confused about which type I need.
I don't have a chain that uses extra snap on links for sure. Mine is popping the pin out.
I'm going to track down which type of chain I've got. It's in another post.
I don't have a chain that uses extra snap on links for sure. Mine is popping the pin out.
I'm going to track down which type of chain I've got. It's in another post.
Once chains got narrower than 5/6-speed width the ability to safely push out and reuse a standard pin to rejoin the chain was lost. With newer chains (6/7/8-speed and above) you must use a special manufacturer supplied joining pin to connect them (Shimano or Campy) or a supplied master link (SRAM, KMC and Wipperman). The master links can be used to join Shimano and Campy chains if you buy them as aftermarket parts.
A chain tool is still needed to size new chain to the correct length and to install the specific Shimano and Campy joining pins. Master links can usually be installed without any tools but a special pair of pliers can be useful to remove them.
A chain tool is still needed to size new chain to the correct length and to install the specific Shimano and Campy joining pins. Master links can usually be installed without any tools but a special pair of pliers can be useful to remove them.
My very favorite shop chain tool (which I don't use that often) is the Topeak ChainBOT. Mine is actually a "Droid" but LucasFilms sue Topeak over that name. It's not superior to other chain tools...just way cooler
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Get a Park CT-3.2 for shortening new chains and removing damaged links.
And get a get of the Park Chain Pliers to make installing and removing master links much easier. Some companies make separate tools for installing and removing the master links (KMC), and some companies (like Park) have a single tool used for installing and removing links. You don't really need the tool to install/lock master links (you can position the master link on the top length of chain over the chainstay, hold the rear wheel and spin the cranks forward to lock the master link without the tool). The tool makes unlocking the master link to remove it much easier.
And get a get of the Park Chain Pliers to make installing and removing master links much easier. Some companies make separate tools for installing and removing the master links (KMC), and some companies (like Park) have a single tool used for installing and removing links. You don't really need the tool to install/lock master links (you can position the master link on the top length of chain over the chainstay, hold the rear wheel and spin the cranks forward to lock the master link without the tool). The tool makes unlocking the master link to remove it much easier.
#21
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NB: You can Only "pop" a quick link on and off *.you cannot "Pop" a pin back in a chain , you can only remove it ,
and thus shorten a derailleur chain.
*for that Park Tool makes a Pair of Pliers.
Only the old style chains that are just for 1 speed bikes and not bent to shift can you reliably press a Pin Back in.
(& then Only if you did Not push it all the way Out!!)
and thus shorten a derailleur chain.
*for that Park Tool makes a Pair of Pliers.
Only the old style chains that are just for 1 speed bikes and not bent to shift can you reliably press a Pin Back in.
(& then Only if you did Not push it all the way Out!!)
Maybe thats ghetto, maybe that isnt recommended, but its absolutely doable and is consistent too.
Its tough going to get a pin back in, but one can be set in too if its completely removed. The magic of patience.
#22
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What? A 7speed chain can have a pin pushed out to allow the chain to come off for cleaning. Route the chain back on and push the pin back in. Wiggle it to make sure its not stuck, and go ride.
Maybe thats ghetto, maybe that isnt recommended, but its absolutely doable and is consistent too.
Its tough going to get a pin back in, but one can be set in too if its completely removed. The magic of patience.
Maybe thats ghetto, maybe that isnt recommended, but its absolutely doable and is consistent too.
Its tough going to get a pin back in, but one can be set in too if its completely removed. The magic of patience.
Do that on a 10s or 11spd and you'll snap the chain apart on your first hill climbed in anger.
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I agree that it shouldnt be done with high # of speed chains. But I was responding to the statement that it can only be done on single speed bikes. I have found it can safely be done on 5, 6, and 7 speed bikes without a second thought.
#24
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Depends on the chain. Many 6/7/8 speed chains, including the ones that give you a master link to use (KMC, SRAM) are not meant to have pins pushed out and reinserted, hence the master link.
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What? A 7speed chain can have a pin pushed out to allow the chain to come off for cleaning. Route the chain back on and push the pin back in. Wiggle it to make sure its not stuck, and go ride.
Maybe thats ghetto, maybe that isnt recommended, but its absolutely doable and is consistent too.
Its tough going to get a pin back in, but one can be set in too if its completely removed. The magic of patience.
Maybe thats ghetto, maybe that isnt recommended, but its absolutely doable and is consistent too.
Its tough going to get a pin back in, but one can be set in too if its completely removed. The magic of patience.