sd5782 

Starting a new post for thoughts on this bike from a wider audience. My earlier post related to my doubts that I would have an attachment to this bike considering what all is missing and needs done.



Generally looks like the 72-76 Newest



Serial number looks like K7C00031

So anyhow, not much remains of stock parts, but the replacements are nice, but the condition isn't nice. From what I was trying to figure out that # led me to believe 1972, and the color scheme and lugs looks like the Newest.



Barcons that someone at co-op was in process of installing



all the graphics gone



I believe it was a commuter and well used



nice reflective tape



scratches and dual bottle cages



Old sticker



Came to shop with fenders, but back is gone

As stated in a previous post, this could be a nice winter project. I am not as skilled as others and may even think of paint. The decals are available. More pics in next post.

sd5782 

More pics of this ugly bike.



Superbe long cage



Dura Ace that spin SO NICE



Universal 61s

So, it was kinda hard to pass up for $100 plus tax. I will get a winter worth of entertainment, and I am retiring in 2 weeks too. Lastly is the 27" mismatched wheels on it. I did build my first wheel before, so I will have to do something here too. The rear Wobler is nice, and I do have a pair of 27" Paselas on hand if I go that way, but 700C would be wiser, but more costly.



Nice Wobler rear



This just doesn't belong on this.

Any comments welcomed, especially as pertains to dating and identifying. It is hard to pass up long point lugs and, I have kinda been looking for a vintage Fuji.

rancho66 

Everything one would need to know about FUJI:

Classic Fuji Bicycle Archive (posthaven.com)

Enjoy the build!

sd5782 

Yep, my searches took me there. That is where my 72 Newest guess came from. Thanks.

merziac

Atta boy, that's the spirit.

I hadn't realized what pedals were on this, and not sure of the brand but these are copies of the Specialized touring pedals many folks get pretty excited about, clips are Soma Oppy double gate which I get pretty excited about and have on all my bikes for foot on pedal stability, have never gotten them on an acquisition. Straps may be worthy of keeping as well.

As you may know and many here always advocate to save any and all parts and pieces, broken, mangled, worn, etc.

You never know when you may need them for a pattern, reference, dating, setup and any one of a number of other things.

This will be a good candidate to hone your skills on, all there for the most part, nothing horrible really, yes paint is crappy, great eclectic parts group, most will clean up and still function just fine or better for a long time to come.

The nice reflective tape will be a pain, it comes off in tiny flakes one at a time with a lot of effort needed. I usually apply some heat with a heat gun or blow dryer and soften it up with carburetor cleaner (the nasty oldschool kind) that doesn't evaporate, use out side with gloves, caution and a plastic scraper.

I/we can all but guarantee that this bike will endear itself to you if you go down the garden path with it, the fact that you couldn't resist is proof positive that it can turn out great regardless of the up front shortcomings.

merziac

Hopefully that Superbe HS and long cage RD are in at least ok shape and usable too.

Matching DA hubs?

Can't imagine how those Uni brakes came to be on this, right at the top of the "which one of these components is not like the other?"

And nothing wrong with them aside from being way out of place on this, IMO.

sd5782 

Thanks Merziac. Yes, matching hubs with stainless spokes, but mismatched wheels. This bike I believe came to the co-op from a very knowledgeable and mechanically inclined person. Another bike not for sale yet from the same guy was a custom builder one with U of M colors and no identifiers. The guy was a rider and mechanic it seemed. I think the Superbe RD will go on my 83 Trek 700. I have the period correct Suntour V luxe and the Vx that will look more appropriate. It really wouldn’t be too hard to make this bike a lot more presentable. Quite interesting reading on the specs on the Fuji Newest too. In the Midwest, we don’t see the bikes you guys see.

Pedals are SR SP155s which I have on another bike too. Thanks for the info on the clips. I have some vintage Japanese Campy copies KKS? that would be appropriate on this too.

RiddleOfSteel

Co-ops either get the weirdest bikes or build the weirdest bikes. I've seen plenty of immense human illogic, neglect, and abuse come through some of the local shops around here. I suppose the initial good news is that it seems the bike has been ridden a lot, which is great as that's what a bike is for. Well, I assume it's been ridden--we'll leave it to "ignorance is bliss."

The frame is a little tired, but not ugly, IMO. The build is ugly. Removing the clutter of the racks and fenders will help tremendously. Full disassembly required on this one, as I'm sure you're planning on doing. It's got a Superbe headset, which is only the second one I've seen "in the wild"--that's really cool.

I continue to be amazed and pleased at what cleaning, (rubbing) compounding, Magic Eraser'ing, waxing and touching up can do to the paint and overall aesthetic cohesion of the frame's 'presentation'. Ditto Quick Glo / Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish for the shiny bits. Removal of the unnecessary stickers and the ugly reflective tape on the stays (prior to paint work) will help considerably as well.

Between that and a working Superbe headset, you will have one heck of a "core" to work with, IMO. The chrome looks to be in good/great shape, which is great for future repainting considerations as it retains that part of the original look, regardless of chosen paint color for everything else. You should have a nice survivor/rider by the end of the winter, at the very least, IMO. I dislike seeing bikes that aren't taken care of, but I'm also a redemption kind of guy, and am happy to be the optimist that can see the diamond in the rough. I think once you remove the clutter/all componentry from this Fuji, you'll come to a similar conclusion.

T-Mar

The serial number indicates March of Showa year 47, which is 1972. Based on the lugs and stay cap treatment, it is a Finest model.

merziac

KKT's I think, right in line with SR and just behind MKS IMO, all good stuff from when the Japanese really didn't make anything poor quality at this level and while nowhere near the cachet of Campy of course but often just as tough and solid for a fraction of the price.

I certainly get the trepidation of using these parts but none of them are out of scope on this, all very possible replacements and upgrades that would make for a fantastic group, cleaned up, ready to rock and shining in the sun on this after the frame gets cleaned up and new livery. You may be amazed how well it cleans up, as ROS points out and I'm sure you well know that elbow grease, some proper processes and chemicals can really turn something like this into a real gem.

You have to envision it and then make it so.

sd5782 

My pics didn't show the long point lugs too well. This was one of the highlights for my purchase. @T-Mar, doesn't this detail make this bike a Newest vs a Finest?

dmark 

Newest I say as a 72 Finest owner.

noglider 

A common error: it's Wolber, not Wobler. I wouldn't want a wobbly wheel.

USAZorro

When I acquired my 1972 Finest about 14 or 15 years ago, I think most of what was on it was original. It had Mikashima (MKS?) pedals, and toe clips that had leather wraps.

The lugs are radically different from those on my Finest, so I'm thinking the OP's is a Newest.

T-Mar

My mistake. I meant to type Newest.

nlerner

Many years back I picked up a shiny chrome mystery frame and after some sleuthing realized it was a similar era Fuji Newest (those lugs are dead give-aways). What I'm getting at is there's likely decent chrome under that paint if you want to go in the direction of completely stripping it.

sd5782 

Thanks for the response T-Mar.

sd5782 

Correct, and that thought has crossed my mind. In my searching, I have seen one done like that, and with new velocal graphics it would certainly be pleasing. I will first see how bad it looks with some touch up done. Patina is good.

sd5782 

I may post as this project progresses over the coming winter. The frame is stripped of components except for the fixed cup, headset, and fork crown race. In case others are interested in this sort of stuff, the frame is 4.82# and the fork is 1.634# with the fixed stuff attached.

sd5782 

I have been working on the Fuji. Not great on the touch up matches, and my skill doing it, but as this will be a mutt build I can probably live with it. If not I could strip the paint and have the chrome underneath. This was also my first decal job, so I am having fun learning. Not perfect just like everything else though. Good from 3 feet will be good enough for me.



Velocals set



NOS Suntour ratchets





Mechanical bits are being acquired and tested for fit. The Superbe head set is a bit worn it seems. It would bind just a bit at close to full lock in both directions. It seemed useable and quite nice by using one ball less in the top race; 21 vs 22 in the bottom. 3/16” balls. I found a NOS Suntour ratchet set that included the BB cable guide. The VX fd would be appropriate, and I have VXs and VXgt choices for the rear. I have a nice set of vintage mks quill pedals and got some mks leather wrapped toe clips. Most parts I have had laying around.

For wheels, I did purchase for cheap from the co-op an early set of Record high flange, but I did have to buy cones for them. They however came with 27” Super Champions so no great tire choices now, but I had a set of Paselas on hand. Even having parts around and paying just $100 for the bike, it still makes no economic sense. It won’t be hard to have over $300 in it when a patient person might find a stocker for $250. I guess hobbies aren’t cheap and aren’t supposed to make economic sense. More assembly coming.

sd5782 

A very short test ride today for first actual ride on this bike as it wasn’t in rideable condition when purchased. After the foot of snow here and a slight bit of melting and rain, there is a bit of pavement without ice towards the center of the road. Smooth, black ice caution and 23 degrees, but I had to at least go a mile on it finally.




Setup seemed pretty good, as did mechanicals. Seat needs raised just a bit. Not a long enough ride to get much feel for geometry but it felt pleasant and neutral. Definitely less racy than my couple bikes that are a bit sportier. It’s been a fun winter project so far. I have some Newbaums orange bar tape and some lever hoods I can do now that I have tested brake lever placement, and am pleased with the stem. Still waiting for spring.

Schreck83 

Looks great! The LBS had one hanging in the window when they first were available…
Are the brakes now Dia Compe? 610s if the rims are 27”?

sd5782 

Yes, 610s front and rear and they fit nicely with the 27s. Switching to 700s might require a longer one in rear like on the many vintage Schwinns. It was way too cold out to take more pics. Too cold and icy for a ride, but I had to at least see if anything hidden was wrong and if it was going to break in half. I put a different stem on my Trek, but the test ride will have to wait. I can easily do upper thirties and dry roads, but low 20s for me is a bit much.

cv350

Looks outstanding. Certain details really stand out like the high flange hubs, red dot brake levers, and fluted seat post.

I think the early to mid-1970’s Newest is always striking with its silver base color and orange seat tube band.

Thanks for documenting and sharing your build. Terrific work.

sd5782 

Actually the only stock parts left I think is the crank and bottom bracket. I tried though to put it back with late 70s parts if possible. The hubs are early campy records. The levers and brakes are early Dia compes which are appropriate. The seat post is early 80s, as are the derailleurs. More of a homage bike than a real restoration, but parts I used should be equal or better than the originals. When this bike was new, I think the frame was more of its selling point than the components. The paint is original, but was fairly beat up. It touched up enough to be presentable from 3 feet.