Comparing Stack/Reach - Existing Bike to New Bike
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
129 Posts
Comparing Stack/Reach - Existing Bike to New Bike
I’ve read that these numbers are pretty important when checking specs on potential new bikes. I know the stack and reach on my existing bike, and on three bikes I’m looking at. This new bike will be ridden like my existing bike though with wider tires. I can’t easily try these bikes at the moment (one is a buildup of a frame).
The numbers are below, existing bike bold font.
When I compare these, what are the things I should be paying attention to? Thanks 😊
Reach 383 / 392 / 394 / 378
Stack 575 / 566 / 557 / 565
The numbers are below, existing bike bold font.
When I compare these, what are the things I should be paying attention to? Thanks 😊
Reach 383 / 392 / 394 / 378
Stack 575 / 566 / 557 / 565
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,945
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6173 Post(s)
Liked 4,790 Times
in
3,305 Posts
Well if you want your fit to be just like your previous bike, then those as well as the rest of the geometry numbers should be about the same.
However if you want different fits on the different bike then you need to decide if you want a lower stack for a lower more aero position or do you want more stack for a more upright position. Reach can do somewhat the same for you with regard to making you more or less aero in position, but the two numbers really need to work together to match your particular desires, wants and needs. Since your body measurements and perceptions about your fit aren't mine, you really need to go see what they feel like.
I use the reach and stack to give me clues to what bikes I want, but not to just blindly pick a bike or size of bike.
However if you want different fits on the different bike then you need to decide if you want a lower stack for a lower more aero position or do you want more stack for a more upright position. Reach can do somewhat the same for you with regard to making you more or less aero in position, but the two numbers really need to work together to match your particular desires, wants and needs. Since your body measurements and perceptions about your fit aren't mine, you really need to go see what they feel like.
I use the reach and stack to give me clues to what bikes I want, but not to just blindly pick a bike or size of bike.
Likes For Iride01:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,851
Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 758 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 809 Times
in
471 Posts
If your bold numbers were my numbers, then I'd find all of the other number-combos comfortable. I have a number of bikes and have measured the stack/reach on all of them. For me at least, the S-R numbers of a comfortable bike is a general target as anywhere reasonably close (as your numbers are) would work for me. As Iride01 said..depends on what your goals are for n+1.
Likes For fishboat:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queanbeyan, Australia.
Posts: 4,135
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3450 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
289 Posts
I’ve read that these numbers are pretty important when checking specs on potential new bikes. I know the stack and reach on my existing bike, and on three bikes I’m looking at. This new bike will be ridden like my existing bike though with wider tires. I can’t easily try these bikes at the moment (one is a buildup of a frame).
The numbers are below, existing bike bold font.
When I compare these, what are the things I should be paying attention to? Thanks 😊
Reach 383 / 392 / 394 / 378
Stack 575 / 566 / 557 / 565
The numbers are below, existing bike bold font.
When I compare these, what are the things I should be paying attention to? Thanks 😊
Reach 383 / 392 / 394 / 378
Stack 575 / 566 / 557 / 565
#5
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
A low stack height can be adjusted with spacers under the stem, and a different stem length and/or angle can accommodate for reach differences, but only to a degree. Don't be this guy:
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
129 Posts
It would help to know whether you're looking for a fit that feels similar your current bike, or something different. As has been pointed out, your four choices are all lower than your current bike, and three of them are longer.
A low stack height can be adjusted with spacers under the stem, and a different stem length and/or angle can accommodate for reach differences, but only to a degree. Don't be this guy:
A low stack height can be adjusted with spacers under the stem, and a different stem length and/or angle can accommodate for reach differences, but only to a degree. Don't be this guy:
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,945
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6173 Post(s)
Liked 4,790 Times
in
3,305 Posts
Well consider the pic an example of a bike that has too little frame stack height for the position the owner wants to be in.
Please don't make a bike look like in the pic and ride them in public places!
Please don't make a bike look like in the pic and ride them in public places!
#8
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
#9
Drip, Drip.
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
You obviously need to know stem length. Top tube length will also play a factor. Also important to consider saddle setback, hence which is why it is important to be able to try the bikes in person and make adjustments to saddle height, tilt, angle, setback, handlebar angle/position etc. as needed before comparing.
generally speaking, you can compensate for less or more frame reach by changing stem length accordingly, that is assuming that frame stack is roughly the same.
You can always manipulate the "effective" frame stack/reach with different stem lengths.
Don't forgot handlebar rise , reach, drop degrees whatever depending on flat/drop bar.
generally speaking, you can compensate for less or more frame reach by changing stem length accordingly, that is assuming that frame stack is roughly the same.
You can always manipulate the "effective" frame stack/reach with different stem lengths.
Don't forgot handlebar rise , reach, drop degrees whatever depending on flat/drop bar.
#10
Drip, Drip.
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
once frame stack starts to change dramatically, this is when comparos become slightly more difficult. some bikes have a long headset cup which changes the lower stack you can use. Others have cut steerer tubes. others dont. this is why stem length/degree combos are useful to achieve the effective handlebar stack/reach position you want.
Your stack/reach comparo is a good start. but dont be too critical, because like i mentioned there are other factors which may change your preferred fit. different frame geometries can work similarly well for you when comparing from bike to bike.
Your stack/reach comparo is a good start. but dont be too critical, because like i mentioned there are other factors which may change your preferred fit. different frame geometries can work similarly well for you when comparing from bike to bike.
#11
Obsessed with Eddington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brussels (BE) 🇧🇪
Posts: 1,330
Bikes: '16 Spesh Diverge, '14 Spesh Fatboy, '18 Spesh Epic, '18 Spesh SL6, '21 Spesh SL7, '21 Spesh Diverge...and maybe n+1?
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 532 Post(s)
Liked 621 Times
in
368 Posts
You obviously need to know stem length. Top tube length will also play a factor. Also important to consider saddle setback, hence which is why it is important to be able to try the bikes in person and make adjustments to saddle height, tilt, angle, setback, handlebar angle/position etc. as needed before comparing.
generally speaking, you can compensate for less or more frame reach by changing stem length accordingly, that is assuming that frame stack is roughly the same.
You can always manipulate the "effective" frame stack/reach with different stem lengths.
Don't forgot handlebar rise , reach, drop degrees whatever depending on flat/drop bar.
generally speaking, you can compensate for less or more frame reach by changing stem length accordingly, that is assuming that frame stack is roughly the same.
You can always manipulate the "effective" frame stack/reach with different stem lengths.
Don't forgot handlebar rise , reach, drop degrees whatever depending on flat/drop bar.
once frame stack starts to change dramatically, this is when comparos become slightly more difficult. some bikes have a long headset cup which changes the lower stack you can use. Others have cut steerer tubes. others dont. this is why stem length/degree combos are useful to achieve the effective handlebar stack/reach position you want.
Your stack/reach comparo is a good start. but dont be too critical, because like i mentioned there are other factors which may change your preferred fit. different frame geometries can work similarly well for you when comparing from bike to bike.
Your stack/reach comparo is a good start. but dont be too critical, because like i mentioned there are other factors which may change your preferred fit. different frame geometries can work similarly well for you when comparing from bike to bike.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
129 Posts
I ended up getting the bike that was the smaller frame, but exact same gravel bike frame as I had a few years ago and it fit well (Bombtrack Hook by the way). Spent a couple hours at the bike shop dialing in saddle height, fore/aft, and stem length and stack. Felt pretty good so we’ll see how she goes! Thanks for responses.