Axle replacement kits?
#1
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Axle replacement kits?
Need a pair of rear axle replacement sets: CrMo axles bored for QR, spacers, washers, cones, locknuts, for rear wheels. The original hubs are French 5-speed, with OLN about 124 mm. The sets used to be pretty common on the market to replace early Campy which may not have had CrMo axles, and other hub makers. I think Wheels Manufacturing and other wheel specialists used to have them in their catalogs, but I really can’t find it. Not too concerned about axle diameter, should be 9.5 to 10 mm. I also doon’t care about thread specification, since I want to buy matched sets. I need axles 131 or more long, but another 4 mm would not be a bad solution. If I can max out how much axle is engaged with the skinny stamped dropouts, that would be a good feature. I can trim an axle and finish the cut ends.
I’m restoring a pair of wheelsets which have bent axles. The originals are original, 55 years old, and clearly of a softer alloy than I would like to rebuild with. Hence I want to get CrMo.
Anybody have some to sell, or know who is making/selling such kits? Sometimes Mike Kone has some, but I don’t think so at the moment.
I’m restoring a pair of wheelsets which have bent axles. The originals are original, 55 years old, and clearly of a softer alloy than I would like to rebuild with. Hence I want to get CrMo.
Anybody have some to sell, or know who is making/selling such kits? Sometimes Mike Kone has some, but I don’t think so at the moment.
Last edited by Road Fan; 12-05-21 at 11:43 AM.
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#2
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Fleabay. A front and rear set of qr axles should cost less than $15 shipped. The axles will likely be too long, but a hacksaw will quickly fix that.
Reminder to keep a nut or cone on the axle while cutting and filing smooth the rough end, so that when you remove the cone, it chases the threads.
Your optimum solution here is a bike Co-op. Our local shop has a 20-pound bin of cones, axles, spacers etc. It would cost you $5 max. to assemble whatever set of axles/cones/nuts that you want. The biggest challenge is trying to match 9, 9.5 and 10.0mm rear axles with their respective cones and nuts, as everything is mixed up. BTW: makes sure that the Co-op axles are not bent; roll them on a flat surface to check.
Reminder to keep a nut or cone on the axle while cutting and filing smooth the rough end, so that when you remove the cone, it chases the threads.
Your optimum solution here is a bike Co-op. Our local shop has a 20-pound bin of cones, axles, spacers etc. It would cost you $5 max. to assemble whatever set of axles/cones/nuts that you want. The biggest challenge is trying to match 9, 9.5 and 10.0mm rear axles with their respective cones and nuts, as everything is mixed up. BTW: makes sure that the Co-op axles are not bent; roll them on a flat surface to check.
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There are some slight differences in a cone's smaller OD dimension. Or to say that some cones can have too large a diameter at the barr track's smaller edge. If this happens the balls will ride on the cone's edge, not in the midsection of the curved track. That edge/corner will break down and the bearing will spin roughly. So any cone used should either be matched up with the OEM ones or a test assembly with the new cone is advised. Also the contact angle that the cone/ball/cup align at can be different. The traditional 1970s Euro angles were around 35+* and the then upstart Asian ones about 22*. Again a test fit is advised. These days most any prepackaged axle set will be of Asian source. To my knowledge Wheels doesn't package axle sets but only individual parts that you assemble into a "set".
This is where having the old in hand when looking at the new is a really good idea. Andy (who has spent dozens of hours over the last 45 years doing this pawing through used boxes for just the right replacement parts)
This is where having the old in hand when looking at the new is a really good idea. Andy (who has spent dozens of hours over the last 45 years doing this pawing through used boxes for just the right replacement parts)
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AndrewRStewart
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There are some slight differences in a cone's smaller OD dimension. Or to say that some cones can have too large a diameter at the barr track's smaller edge. If this happens the balls will ride on the cone's edge, not in the midsection of the curved track. That edge/corner will break down and the bearing will spin roughly. So any cone used should either be matched up with the OEM ones or a test assembly with the new cone is advised. Also the contact angle that the cone/ball/cup align at can be different. The traditional 1970s Euro angles were around 35+* and the then upstart Asian ones about 22*. Again a test fit is advised. These days most any prepackaged axle set will be of Asian source. To my knowledge Wheels doesn't package axle sets but only individual parts that you assemble into a "set".
This is where having the old in hand when looking at the new is a really good idea. Andy (who has spent dozens of hours over the last 45 years doing this pawing through used boxes for just the right replacement parts)
This is where having the old in hand when looking at the new is a really good idea. Andy (who has spent dozens of hours over the last 45 years doing this pawing through used boxes for just the right replacement parts)