two wheel/tire questions
08-30-21, 06:32 PM
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two wheel/tire questions
Was meaning to ask a question, but got one that's more important.
In 2007 I got a set of Mavic Kysrium Elite wheels. I already had a set on another bike. Not the tech monsters that I hear talk about hear, but I was very happy with them as: NO broken spokes, Ever.
Anyway, 12 years later, the wheels were getting shot: the rims were wearing out, metal really thinned out. I went to buy new wheels , and wound up with some Mavic wheels (now I can't say exactly what model) that seemed similar. But that came with a free set of tubless tires.
I rode on the tubeless for a year. For me: they were pain, more trouble than they were worth. Still having a stash of tubed tires (continetal Gran prix all season) i switched back to using tubes.
Didn't have a flat for over a year.
Until today. Oddly, on front tire (rarely get one of those).
Over the past 21 years I've chanbed tubes many, many times. There are people who do it faster than i do, but I get the job done.
But not today: I could NOT get the damn tire over the rim to be able to get the old tube out, let alone put in another (or patch it, if I wanted to do that which i didn't). I mean: it's just close to impossible.
I am told that wheels now are built for tubeless tires and disc brakes (which i don't have). I ended up having somebody come pick me up.
What the hell do I do? I want to be able to deal with a flat.
When I had tubeless tires, in short time I managed to destroy two of them (and note: with tubes: zero flats for the last 13 or so months). They are NOT 100% imune to troubel.
Why do they keep fixing things that aren't broke?
My other question is: I've always filled up my tires (which do 3 or 4 times a week) to the limit on written on the tire (in this case 120 psi). Recently, in some discussion here, people were talking about less air in the front tire.
Is there some reason I don't need the PSI in the front to be as high as in the back?
In 2007 I got a set of Mavic Kysrium Elite wheels. I already had a set on another bike. Not the tech monsters that I hear talk about hear, but I was very happy with them as: NO broken spokes, Ever.
Anyway, 12 years later, the wheels were getting shot: the rims were wearing out, metal really thinned out. I went to buy new wheels , and wound up with some Mavic wheels (now I can't say exactly what model) that seemed similar. But that came with a free set of tubless tires.
I rode on the tubeless for a year. For me: they were pain, more trouble than they were worth. Still having a stash of tubed tires (continetal Gran prix all season) i switched back to using tubes.
Didn't have a flat for over a year.
Until today. Oddly, on front tire (rarely get one of those).
Over the past 21 years I've chanbed tubes many, many times. There are people who do it faster than i do, but I get the job done.
But not today: I could NOT get the damn tire over the rim to be able to get the old tube out, let alone put in another (or patch it, if I wanted to do that which i didn't). I mean: it's just close to impossible.
I am told that wheels now are built for tubeless tires and disc brakes (which i don't have). I ended up having somebody come pick me up.
What the hell do I do? I want to be able to deal with a flat.
When I had tubeless tires, in short time I managed to destroy two of them (and note: with tubes: zero flats for the last 13 or so months). They are NOT 100% imune to troubel.
Why do they keep fixing things that aren't broke?
My other question is: I've always filled up my tires (which do 3 or 4 times a week) to the limit on written on the tire (in this case 120 psi). Recently, in some discussion here, people were talking about less air in the front tire.
Is there some reason I don't need the PSI in the front to be as high as in the back?
08-30-21, 07:59 PM
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On my wheelset there is a deeper channel in the center of the rim. I have to get edge of the tire to sit inside that channel opposite the valve stem and work my tire iron near the valve stem as I keep the opposite side in that channel.
This video does a decent job of showing the procedure:
This video does a decent job of showing the procedure:
08-30-21, 08:14 PM
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Some tires, particularly tubeless-ready, are nearly impossible to mount. I won't share my horror stories, you can just relive your own .....
I have a pair of very strong tire levers (which double as quick-link pliers) and I often carry more than three levers. Some tires loosen up over time.
As for tire pressure, lower pressure usually means more comfort until the tires start flopping or pinch-flatting ... and slightly softer tires actually run faster than super-hard tires (by margins so tiny only racers and fanatics even care.) But I generally run my front tire softer because 2/3 of my weight is on the rear tire, and the slightly softer tire does add a little bump absorption and possibly compliance on corners.
I have a pair of very strong tire levers (which double as quick-link pliers) and I often carry more than three levers. Some tires loosen up over time.
As for tire pressure, lower pressure usually means more comfort until the tires start flopping or pinch-flatting ... and slightly softer tires actually run faster than super-hard tires (by margins so tiny only racers and fanatics even care.) But I generally run my front tire softer because 2/3 of my weight is on the rear tire, and the slightly softer tire does add a little bump absorption and possibly compliance on corners.
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08-30-21, 08:48 PM
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Although I find no use for actual tubeless, my wife has two bikes set up tubeless and has done fine I've had bad luck which I assume relates to my weight since I have a hard time with the tires burping unless I ran pressures higher than I did with tubes. But tubeless has had the result of better standardization and all the modern rims I've dealt with have a channel down the center that, as mentioned above, you push the tire bead into and it makes the job easier. I have 6 tubeless wheelsets and I don't need a tire lever to change a tube, it's just been developing the technique of pushing the tire over and up and continuing around the wheel with that pattern till enough play shows up. Far easier than sticking a 90s vittoria tire on a 90s matrix rim, a combo that was so horrendous I'd pinch at least one tube every time I had to change one.
The whole alternate pressure in the front has some merit though I don't think it has a great basis, usual suggests is 3-5psi lower. This is due to the front spending most of the time with less weight on it so it deforms less on a mtb translating to less traction or being firmer than it needs to be transmits more road vibration or shock. But as others have pointed out, matching pressure means more reliable ride characteristics when out of the saddle sprinting on the road or when weight is more transitioned forward on downhills and when braking. Your bigger issue is that your tire pressure might be too high for general riding. 120psi can impart a rough ride, its the maximum pressure the tire can handle but not necessarily the best pressure for your ride. I put 100psi in my own tires and my wife who is only 130lb has her bike set to 85psi. For a race I'll bump them up a little to 105 and 90psi but more pressure doesn't equal faster if the resulting road vibration is tiring you out, unless its at the track then I might go to 120psi.
The whole alternate pressure in the front has some merit though I don't think it has a great basis, usual suggests is 3-5psi lower. This is due to the front spending most of the time with less weight on it so it deforms less on a mtb translating to less traction or being firmer than it needs to be transmits more road vibration or shock. But as others have pointed out, matching pressure means more reliable ride characteristics when out of the saddle sprinting on the road or when weight is more transitioned forward on downhills and when braking. Your bigger issue is that your tire pressure might be too high for general riding. 120psi can impart a rough ride, its the maximum pressure the tire can handle but not necessarily the best pressure for your ride. I put 100psi in my own tires and my wife who is only 130lb has her bike set to 85psi. For a race I'll bump them up a little to 105 and 90psi but more pressure doesn't equal faster if the resulting road vibration is tiring you out, unless its at the track then I might go to 120psi.
08-30-21, 09:49 PM
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Was meaning to ask a question, but got one that's more important.
In 2007 I got a set of Mavic Kysrium Elite wheels. I already had a set on another bike. Not the tech monsters that I hear talk about hear, but I was very happy with them as: NO broken spokes, Ever.
Anyway, 12 years later, the wheels were getting shot: the rims were wearing out, metal really thinned out. I went to buy new wheels , and wound up with some Mavic wheels (now I can't say exactly what model) that seemed similar. But that came with a free set of tubless tires.
I rode on the tubeless for a year. For me: they were pain, more trouble than they were worth. Still having a stash of tubed tires (continetal Gran prix all season) i switched back to using tubes.
Didn't have a flat for over a year.
Until today. Oddly, on front tire (rarely get one of those).
Over the past 21 years I've chanbed tubes many, many times. There are people who do it faster than i do, but I get the job done.
But not today: I could NOT get the damn tire over the rim to be able to get the old tube out, let alone put in another (or patch it, if I wanted to do that which i didn't). I mean: it's just close to impossible.
I am told that wheels now are built for tubeless tires and disc brakes (which i don't have). I ended up having somebody come pick me up.
What the hell do I do? I want to be able to deal with a flat.
When I had tubeless tires, in short time I managed to destroy two of them (and note: with tubes: zero flats for the last 13 or so months). They are NOT 100% imune to troubel.
Why do they keep fixing things that aren't broke?
My other question is: I've always filled up my tires (which do 3 or 4 times a week) to the limit on written on the tire (in this case 120 psi). Recently, in some discussion here, people were talking about less air in the front tire.
Is there some reason I don't need the PSI in the front to be as high as in the back?
In 2007 I got a set of Mavic Kysrium Elite wheels. I already had a set on another bike. Not the tech monsters that I hear talk about hear, but I was very happy with them as: NO broken spokes, Ever.
Anyway, 12 years later, the wheels were getting shot: the rims were wearing out, metal really thinned out. I went to buy new wheels , and wound up with some Mavic wheels (now I can't say exactly what model) that seemed similar. But that came with a free set of tubless tires.
I rode on the tubeless for a year. For me: they were pain, more trouble than they were worth. Still having a stash of tubed tires (continetal Gran prix all season) i switched back to using tubes.
Didn't have a flat for over a year.
Until today. Oddly, on front tire (rarely get one of those).
Over the past 21 years I've chanbed tubes many, many times. There are people who do it faster than i do, but I get the job done.
But not today: I could NOT get the damn tire over the rim to be able to get the old tube out, let alone put in another (or patch it, if I wanted to do that which i didn't). I mean: it's just close to impossible.
I am told that wheels now are built for tubeless tires and disc brakes (which i don't have). I ended up having somebody come pick me up.
What the hell do I do? I want to be able to deal with a flat.
When I had tubeless tires, in short time I managed to destroy two of them (and note: with tubes: zero flats for the last 13 or so months). They are NOT 100% imune to troubel.
Why do they keep fixing things that aren't broke?
My other question is: I've always filled up my tires (which do 3 or 4 times a week) to the limit on written on the tire (in this case 120 psi). Recently, in some discussion here, people were talking about less air in the front tire.
Is there some reason I don't need the PSI in the front to be as high as in the back?
09-05-21, 10:11 AM
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On my wheelset there is a deeper channel in the center of the rim. I have to get edge of the tire to sit inside that channel opposite the valve stem and work my tire iron near the valve stem as I keep the opposite side in that channel.
This video does a decent job of showing the procedure:
This video does a decent job of showing the procedure:
09-05-21, 10:14 AM
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Although I find no use for actual tubeless, my wife has two bikes set up tubeless and has done fine I've had bad luck which I assume relates to my weight since I have a hard time with the tires burping unless I ran pressures higher than I did with tubes. But tubeless has had the result of better standardization and all the modern rims I've dealt with have a channel down the center that, as mentioned above, you push the tire bead into and it makes the job easier. I have 6 tubeless wheelsets and I don't need a tire lever to change a tube, it's just been developing the technique of pushing the tire over and up and continuing around the wheel with that pattern till enough play shows up. Far easier than sticking a 90s vittoria tire on a 90s matrix rim, a combo that was so horrendous I'd pinch at least one tube every time I had to change one.
The whole alternate pressure in the front has some merit though I don't think it has a great basis, usual suggests is 3-5psi lower. This is due to the front spending most of the time with less weight on it so it deforms less on a mtb translating to less traction or being firmer than it needs to be transmits more road vibration or shock. But as others have pointed out, matching pressure means more reliable ride characteristics when out of the saddle sprinting on the road or when weight is more transitioned forward on downhills and when braking. Your bigger issue is that your tire pressure might be too high for general riding. 120psi can impart a rough ride, its the maximum pressure the tire can handle but not necessarily the best pressure for your ride. I put 100psi in my own tires and my wife who is only 130lb has her bike set to 85psi. For a race I'll bump them up a little to 105 and 90psi but more pressure doesn't equal faster if the resulting road vibration is tiring you out, unless its at the track then I might go to 120psi.
The whole alternate pressure in the front has some merit though I don't think it has a great basis, usual suggests is 3-5psi lower. This is due to the front spending most of the time with less weight on it so it deforms less on a mtb translating to less traction or being firmer than it needs to be transmits more road vibration or shock. But as others have pointed out, matching pressure means more reliable ride characteristics when out of the saddle sprinting on the road or when weight is more transitioned forward on downhills and when braking. Your bigger issue is that your tire pressure might be too high for general riding. 120psi can impart a rough ride, its the maximum pressure the tire can handle but not necessarily the best pressure for your ride. I put 100psi in my own tires and my wife who is only 130lb has her bike set to 85psi. For a race I'll bump them up a little to 105 and 90psi but more pressure doesn't equal faster if the resulting road vibration is tiring you out, unless its at the track then I might go to 120psi.
09-05-21, 10:21 AM
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I used Ksyrum Elite clinchers for years. Like you I never broke a spoke and they never needing to be trued. Amazing but real. I did have some flats but I never had a problem changing out tubes. Three years ago I went to Ksyrium Elite USTs. No problem mounting tires or inflating with a regular floor pump. And, between my 2 road bikes and my GF's bike, zero flats in 3 years. I am totally sold on them. That's just my experience.
09-05-21, 04:39 PM
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'why do they fix things that aren't broke?' My intention exactly. Bikes are way more complicated than they should be.
Use heavy duty tire levers- at least two. Watch videos.
If you are required to inflate 4x/week, sounds like something is wrong.
Just my opinion, but inflate front tire 10psi below max; rear close to max. My front tire is smaller than rear, but thats just me.
Use heavy duty tire levers- at least two. Watch videos.
If you are required to inflate 4x/week, sounds like something is wrong.
Just my opinion, but inflate front tire 10psi below max; rear close to max. My front tire is smaller than rear, but thats just me.
09-05-21, 06:25 PM
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I view my bike the same as the car, I prefer the best tires at the front and would put wider in the front of the bike over the rear if mismatched. Logic for me is that its always best if the front can do whatever it needs to vs. the rear. Rear of the car or bike can't handle what's happening it can suck bad, front doesn't make it things can be even worse.
09-05-21, 09:05 PM
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Mounting/unmounting tires: Some brands of tires are harder to get off certain brands of rims than other ones. Every time I buy a new tire I try to mount it as soon as I get home - if its too tough to mount at home, its going to be a nightmare on the road, so I take it back to the LBS and get a different brand of tire. I've found this problems really pops up when using tires a 28mm or smaller diameter. I'm exclusively using clincher tires and tubes, not tubeless.
Tire Pressures - personal preference, AFAIK. Some folks like a little lower pressure for better traction, comfort (poor mans shock absorber), or any number of other reasons. I keep mine pumped up near the pressure shown on the sidewall.
Tire Pressures - personal preference, AFAIK. Some folks like a little lower pressure for better traction, comfort (poor mans shock absorber), or any number of other reasons. I keep mine pumped up near the pressure shown on the sidewall.
