arewolfe

I currently have a 1.5 gal air compressor with 150 PSI that works nicely for getting grips (Kraton rubber type) on and off a handlebar. I'm assuming one of the car-cigarette-lighter air pumps would not create enough sustained PSI to get the job done.

Anyone have an opinion on the minimum tank volume for this fine act of bicycle maintenance?

BikeLite

What brand/model is your current one? I was gonna post similar in the last few days..lol. Maybe flow rate (cfm) is more important than top psi?

arewolfe

Porter cable... I don't see a model number but you can see the specs in this pic

arewolfe

Ah, never mind. It's not letting me upload a photo because I don't have 10 posts yet. Porter Cable brand, 1.5 gallon, 150 PSI

FBinNY 

Note that the required volume isn't limited by the compressor flow rate.

There's usually a storage tank, which allows a large, sustained blast, well
beyond what the compressor could deliver on my its own.

JoeTBM 

We use this in the shop and it blows off HB Grips well,

https://www.harborfreight.com/media/...7/57572_W3.jpg

as FBinNY said, . You need that blast (and blocking off any air leaks), we have had to chase grips across the parking lot

streetsurfer

I’ve considered rigging this Spare Air and 80 up for grip removal, dusting/drying, cut off wheel or die grinder, and tire inflation.

squirtdad

for me it is simple, I will use the compressor (husky with 120 psi top) and always shoot the grips into some hard to get at place in the garage no matter how careful i try to be

no help for original question

veganbikes

Use bolt on grips and not have the problem of needing a compressor and if you are needing an in car compressor you should do some maintenance to the bike at home or at a shop something like that is not really for the trailhead.

Andrew R Stewart 

Most of the grips I replace are rather worn out (such is the exciting life of a wrench). So, I often slide, in between the grip and bar, a skinny hex wrench. Adjacent to that slide in a Clean Streak nozzle and give a light spray. Remove the nozzle and work the hex wrench back and forth a little so the spray can migrate about. Pull the grip off and quickly wipe off the bar. No noise, no added person to plug the other end of the bars. The bars are cleaned at the same time. Only when I can't slide on a new grip with my moist breath and hands will I go to evaporative spray or grip stretching air pressure. Andy

yannisg

Simple technique. I've used it several time with success too.

JoeTBM 

Andy, Just curious. We have used this method too for grips that we are saving for reuse or reinstall (when repairing a DER control) but if the grip is worn and to be replaced we just slide a utility knife parallel to the bar and just cut it off lengthwise. Won't this be easier?

Andrew R Stewart 

My doing repairs is not only about ease or minimum time spent. How I feel about what i do is important to me. I just like to try nondestructive methods first many times. But I am a Dr's kid, so the "do no harm" thing is high up there is how I look at stuff. Andy (who thinks about this when grinding/filing away on a frame too much of the time)

arewolfe

Good method.

I actually prefer stretched grips. When I install new grips (every 3 months or so), it takes about 5 rides til they stretch to where I like them.

arewolfe

Locking grips are the s•••.

I used them when I rode DH mountain bikes. Now I'm more or less strictly BMX, and the grips I use (Odyssey Broc Raiford) aren't offered with a locking option, and I wouldn't use any other grips now that I've found "the ones".

BikeLite

Someone needs to make a locking base grip that ESI's can be put on.