Let's Get Crackin': Bar Tape Shellackin'
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Verrrrry nice! Are those Yokozuma cable housings? Whatever they are, they sure complete the total package nicely
DD
DD
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This looks interesting, but I've recently discovered the benefits of gel pads on the bars under the tape. I'd presume that shellac'ed tape is rigid and would not interact all that well with he cushioning effect of the pads (like, it might crack). Or is that a false presumption?
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This looks interesting, but I've recently discovered the benefits of gel pads on the bars under the tape. I'd presume that shellac'ed tape is rigid and would not interact all that well with he cushioning effect of the pads (like, it might crack). Or is that a false presumption?
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Shellac on cloth tape is laterally stiff and vertically compliant.
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#56
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Good thread with excellent instructions.
I shellac my cloth tape.
I use cotton haberdashery "header" tape which is without the adhesive backing, and I use a small amount of double-sided tape on the bare handlebars. I use lengths longer than the precut handlebar tape rolls, as this allows me to get my overlaps as I want. Then trim any excess length.
I dampen the tape prior to wrapping to allow for stretching when damp, and it tightens up when dry.
To minimise any movement of the tape over time I use shellac, either amber or clear or a mixture depending on the colour change sought. And only sufficient to achieve that stability is used as I like the overlaps and cloth texture to remain. I also use cycling gloves.
The original owner of this bike scoffed at shellac, saying old racers simply removed the tape when it got dirty, washed the tape and let the tape dry then reinstalled it. So when he retired from riding and gifted the bike, I could not make the shellac obvious. Bob didn't notice!
When the tape gets too much patina for my taste it is removed and replaced using the same steps above. It is a cheap consumable item.
I shellac my cloth tape.
I use cotton haberdashery "header" tape which is without the adhesive backing, and I use a small amount of double-sided tape on the bare handlebars. I use lengths longer than the precut handlebar tape rolls, as this allows me to get my overlaps as I want. Then trim any excess length.
I dampen the tape prior to wrapping to allow for stretching when damp, and it tightens up when dry.
To minimise any movement of the tape over time I use shellac, either amber or clear or a mixture depending on the colour change sought. And only sufficient to achieve that stability is used as I like the overlaps and cloth texture to remain. I also use cycling gloves.
The original owner of this bike scoffed at shellac, saying old racers simply removed the tape when it got dirty, washed the tape and let the tape dry then reinstalled it. So when he retired from riding and gifted the bike, I could not make the shellac obvious. Bob didn't notice!
When the tape gets too much patina for my taste it is removed and replaced using the same steps above. It is a cheap consumable item.
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Almost exactly like a carbon fiber weave, IMHO.
DD
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That old saw never gets old 'round these here parts, does it?
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Good thread with excellent instructions.
I shellac my cloth tape.
I use cotton haberdashery "header" tape which is without the adhesive backing, and I use a small amount of double-sided tape on the bare handlebars. I use lengths longer than the precut handlebar tape rolls, as this allows me to get my overlaps as I want. Then trim any excess length.
I dampen the tape prior to wrapping to allow for stretching when damp, and it tightens up when dry.
To minimise any movement of the tape over time I use shellac, either amber or clear or a mixture depending on the colour change sought. And only sufficient to achieve that stability is used as I like the overlaps and cloth texture to remain. I also use cycling gloves.
The original owner of this bike scoffed at shellac, saying old racers simply removed the tape when it got dirty, washed the tape and let the tape dry then reinstalled it. So when he retired from riding and gifted the bike, I could not make the shellac obvious. Bob didn't notice!
When the tape gets too much patina for my taste it is removed and replaced using the same steps above. It is a cheap consumable item.
Secondly: great points made here. I only once pre-soaked bar tape in water, and that was out of necessity. I used to rely on Tressostar, but that stuff is notoriously short out of the box - and I ride deep-drop Cinelli Campione del Mondo bars. In normal use, I found Tressostar just barely long enough to get to the end of the bar, and even then, I had to be overly precise with my overlaps in order to get the bar completely covered. When I soaked a pair of rolls, I had excess tape once I was finished - precisely for the reason you shared.
I think that stuff was a bit more color-fast than Newbaum's - but then again, Newbaum's is plenty long enough. Shellac takes care of the lack of color-fastness, and Newbaum's feels a bit thicker than Tressostar, too.
Thanks for sharing your photo and thoughts!
DD
Last edited by Drillium Dude; 03-18-23 at 05:00 AM.
#61
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DD you may be amused by the opening words in that thread "shellac or not?" Click the link when you have a little time to spare.
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I documented the project in this thread https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/v...p?f=23&t=88324
DD you may be amused by the opening words in that thread "shellac or not?" Click the link when you have a little time to spare.
I will definitely give it a look tonight. The colorway is gorgeous, as I'm sure the rest of the bike is, too
DD
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Ligntning Brake Cables
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Lightning Cables from MCS BMX. I just noticed they had a purple cable that might have been interesting. But gold is good.
Ligntning Brake Cables
I'll leave the Bianchi to stand alone with Campy grey
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At the risk of topic drift, the photo below really got my attention; I've wrapped countless bars, both mine and working at a shop... and never seen this. Huh -- remove the lever housings, leaving the mounting bands in place, wrap the bars, and re-install the lever housings OVER the tape. That seems to be a way to really get max tape coverage over the bars without battling with getting the tape wrapped around at least part of the lever housings. I like that! For cloth tape, it looks like a no-brainer unless there is a contra-indication. But, does anyone do this with more modern cushioned synthetic tape? Would this interfere with lever reinstallation or, worse, make keeping the levers tightly installed due to compression of the tape under the housings? I just got some Fizk Microtex Classic tape for a project I am working on, looks great but it's somewhat squishy; a good thing for riding but dare I try this technique for wrapping?
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Some bikes demand cloth. Hand arthritis limits my grip and has me use gel under tape and padded tape with leather anti-vibration gloves which are much better for me than cycling gloves. So for taped bars to get as much grip friction as I can I use a light coat of shellac which must be maintained frequently at about the timing shown below with a small brush for only touching up.
#69
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At the risk of topic drift, the photo below really got my attention; I've wrapped countless bars, both mine and working at a shop... and never seen this. Huh -- remove the lever housings, leaving the mounting bands in place, wrap the bars, and re-install the lever housings OVER the tape. That seems to be a way to really get max tape coverage over the bars without battling with getting the tape wrapped around at least part of the lever housings. I like that! For cloth tape, it looks like a no-brainer unless there is a contra-indication. But, does anyone do this with more modern cushioned synthetic tape? Would this interfere with lever reinstallation or, worse, make keeping the levers tightly installed due to compression of the tape under the housings? I just got some Fizk Microtex Classic tape for a project I am working on, looks great but it's somewhat squishy; a good thing for riding but dare I try this technique for wrapping?
Moreover, Fizik et al have more stretch than cloth tape. I have never had a problem taping around the installed levers with Fizik, Cinelli, etc. and getting full coverage. With cloth, it's much trickier, and it always tends to fold in on itself when making those turns around the levers.
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Shellac, by it's nature, dries hard/fractionable. If you have padding of any significant squish under it, it WILL fracture, or as is more likely, will just make a hard, large grip.
If you're just doing it for the color pop, you only need to soak the top layer of cloth, and it'll be fine. My Serotta, I painted on 2 layers, and it wasn't enough to bind it together...so it would probably have no effect on the padded nature of the tape..
I've got a bike with the padded Newbaums. I don't think it's a good candidate for shellac, personally.
Hard pass. I wouldn't do this in a shop, because you can't guarantee that a lever's clamp will stay in place, and it also locks the adjustment in place (typically, you can 'wiggle' a brake lever up/down ~5mm from where it was taped around). I would only consider doing this with cloth or hard leather (Brooks), and only if someone agreed that it might screw up the fit. With cloth, I typically tape from the bottom, ending at the right side of the brake, and then start another piece from the other side to go up/around the brake. With adhesive tape from Newbaum/Velox, you need no further prep to hold it down, though you can use a piece of double-stick under the hood if you want. It also allows you to use two different colors on the tape, if desired
Nobody comes into a shop for cloth tape, though.
If you're just doing it for the color pop, you only need to soak the top layer of cloth, and it'll be fine. My Serotta, I painted on 2 layers, and it wasn't enough to bind it together...so it would probably have no effect on the padded nature of the tape..
I've got a bike with the padded Newbaums. I don't think it's a good candidate for shellac, personally.
At the risk of topic drift, the photo below really got my attention; I've wrapped countless bars, both mine and working at a shop... and never seen this. Huh -- remove the lever housings, leaving the mounting bands in place, wrap the bars, and re-install the lever housings OVER the tape. That seems to be a way to really get max tape coverage over the bars without battling with getting the tape wrapped around at least part of the lever housings. I like that! For cloth tape, it looks like a no-brainer unless there is a contra-indication. But, does anyone do this with more modern cushioned synthetic tape? Would this interfere with lever reinstallation or, worse, make keeping the levers tightly installed due to compression of the tape under the housings? I just got some Fizk Microtex Classic tape for a project I am working on, looks great but it's somewhat squishy; a good thing for riding but dare I try this technique for wrapping?
Nobody comes into a shop for cloth tape, though.
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That's the way I was taught.
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This is great! I posted results about my results mixing white shellac for a Moser in 2018 I have but it was NO tutorial. I wish I was better with explaining my method.as my posts basically are 'Yay, I did a thing !' Beautiful work as always, now get back to your milling stuff. I miss that !
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Quote: Hard pass. I wouldn't do this in a shop, because you can't guarantee that a lever's clamp will stay in place, and it also locks the adjustment in place (typically, you can 'wiggle' a brake lever up/down ~5mm from where it was taped around). I would only consider doing this with cloth or hard leather (Brooks), and only if someone agreed that it might screw up the fit. With cloth, I typically tape from the bottom, ending at the right side of the brake, and then start another piece from the other side to go up/around the brake.[/QUOTE]
I leave the lever bands in place, and lock their location using double sided tape ensuring they don’t drift.
come to think about it, I just bought some padded 3M double sided tape. I might run two strips parallel along the bar tops and tape over that.
I leave the lever bands in place, and lock their location using double sided tape ensuring they don’t drift.
come to think about it, I just bought some padded 3M double sided tape. I might run two strips parallel along the bar tops and tape over that.
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I have used all of these on woods but not sure about bar cloth. Any others tried these other "weather coats"?
https://thediyhammer.com/shellac-vs-...sh-vs-lacquer/
Shellac vs Polyurethane vs Varnish vs Lacquer as Wood Finish
https://thediyhammer.com/shellac-vs-...sh-vs-lacquer/
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At the risk of topic drift, the photo below really got my attention; I've wrapped countless bars, both mine and working at a shop... and never seen this. Huh -- remove the lever housings, leaving the mounting bands in place, wrap the bars, and re-install the lever housings OVER the tape. That seems to be a way to really get max tape coverage over the bars without battling with getting the tape wrapped around at least part of the lever housings. I like that! For cloth tape, it looks like a no-brainer unless there is a contra-indication. But, does anyone do this with more modern cushioned synthetic tape? Would this interfere with lever reinstallation or, worse, make keeping the levers tightly installed due to compression of the tape under the housings? I just got some Fizk Microtex Classic tape for a project I am working on, looks great but it's somewhat squishy; a good thing for riding but dare I try this technique for wrapping?