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Front tire lifts up

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Old 03-11-22, 04:40 AM
  #1  
mtn drew
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Front tire lifts up

I have a new Giant Trance 27.5 and when I'm climbing steep hills, sometimes the front tire lifts up like it's going to wheeley.
I am already leaning my body forward.

There is 30mm of headset spacers.

What will help with this problem?

Moving some of the headset, or changing to a longer stem?

Thanks
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Old 03-11-22, 04:51 AM
  #2  
tFUnK
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Removing spacers and getting a longer stem will both help. Without seeing the bike it's hard to judge, though, because even though you say you're leavnng forward it still could be a technique thing, pedaling smoother, maintaining good body posture, avoiding holding the bars too tight when straining up a hill, etc.

Last edited by tFUnK; 03-11-22 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 03-11-22, 05:03 AM
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Koyote
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Spacers and stem length are used to establish bike fit; so, assuming the bike fits you properly you do not want to mess with those. This is more likely a matter of terrain and technique.
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Old 03-11-22, 08:14 AM
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Not familiar with that Giant but I had a Trek 720 hybrid that seemed wheelie-prone and I have never been able to lift the front in my decades of riding. It was fitted out as a school commuter with fenders, lights and rear rack. I carried one pannier attache case and generally rode in Teva sandals. Does not sound like a wheelie rig, I agree, but launching from a stop could bring it up as often as not.
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Old 03-11-22, 09:04 AM
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What adjustments do you have on that front suspension? Changing them to your settings and not your friends settings might help.
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Old 03-11-22, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mtn drew
I have a new Giant Trance 27.5 and when I'm climbing steep hills, sometimes the front tire lifts up like it's going to wheeley.
I am already leaning my body forward.

There is 30mm of headset spacers.

What will help with this problem?

Moving some of the headset, or changing to a longer stem?

Thanks
An old mountain bike trick is to “pull” yourself down towards the handlebars on climbs. You don’t really pull yourself down but the action of pulling on the bars moves your CG down and forward. There’s no real need to make adjustments to the bike…make adjustments to your technique.
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Old 03-11-22, 10:50 AM
  #7  
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Your answer is yes or no. Your bike is quite capable and is designed to ride wherever and tackle technical sections and technical descents. Your answer is pretty much not how the bike climbs, but how well it negotiates the terrain, especially at speed.

If you never use the dropper, or are not riding technical sections that require the setup you currently have, there are some tweaks. But if you are pushing the bike and it performs well in demanding situations then leave it as is and work on climbing technique. I only say this because most riders are less concerned with climbing and more concerned about what they are climbing for.

That said, if you are not really riding anything technical and are overbiked, which isn't a bad thing, you can go with a longer stem and move the saddle forward, and up, to get the best cockpit setup. This will move your weight forward a bit. There are give and takes and you might hate how it effects the steering. There is no way I would remove any spacers. And keep your old stem so you can put everything back the way is was.

John
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Old 03-11-22, 12:12 PM
  #8  
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It's all about weight distribution, momentum, gearing, and technique, so practice the sections that give you trouble. Small changes to the stem length and/or height will have little if any benefit, and can screw up the way your bike fits and feels.

Some tips here @ 1:47.

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