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Are there 10-11 inch quick release skewers?

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Are there 10-11 inch quick release skewers?

Old 08-18-22, 07:27 PM
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Are there 10-11 inch quick release skewers?

I bought a frame and wheels a while back off marketplace. Finally got around to trying to put a bike together, however, the back part for the frame is a thru axle type and the wheel hubs are QR.

The quick release are too short to make it through. Are there longer QR skewers? Or do I need to get a new wheel/hub for the back?

Thanks 😀
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Old 08-18-22, 08:45 PM
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Thru axle wheels and QR wheels are very much different and have different spacing. Get the correct wheels but you might want to consider checking out your local bike shop as they can help you get the correct parts and measure things.
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Old 08-18-22, 08:45 PM
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Even if you could find a longer skewer, a qr hub has an axle too small (typically 10mm diameter) to locate properly in a thru-axle hole (usually 12mm). You need the correct hub and thru-axle.
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Old 08-18-22, 08:58 PM
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If you didn't know the difference between q/r axles and thru axles BEFORE you went ahead and bought the frame you should probably find some help putting it together from someone with experience. Lots of experience.
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Old 08-18-22, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Even if you could find a longer skewer, a qr hub has an axle too small (typically 10mm diameter) to locate properly in a thru-axle hole (usually 12mm). You need the correct hub and thru-axle.
Oh yeah that makes sense. Thanks for the answer.

I have the 12x148 thru axle. I'll get a new wheel then. This is my 1st bike build. I have a newfound respect for the techs at my local shop 😄
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Old 08-18-22, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
If you didn't know the difference between q/r axles and thru axles BEFORE you went ahead and bought the frame you should probably find some help putting it together from someone with experience. Lots of experience.
Fair point.
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Old 08-18-22, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
Thru axle wheels and QR wheels are very much different and have different spacing. Get the correct wheels but you might want to consider checking out your local bike shop as they can help you get the correct parts and measure things.
Thanks for the answer. Great advice. I have had the local shop do a lot of the work.

I'll have to find a 12*148 hub or wheel I guess. Thanks again!
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Old 08-19-22, 01:28 AM
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Surprised the frame didn't come with an axle, as this is now part normally of the basic frame package when purchased, not the wheel

Also, if your building a current bike, effectively everything is in metric now (and has been for a while), searching for a 10-11 inch QR will bring few if any useful results
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Old 08-19-22, 06:38 AM
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Looking only at the front wheel. Assume 12mm thru-axle holes in the dropouts.
Will the following work?
The hollow QR axle has a diameter of 9mm.
Find a nut, 12mm od, 9mm id, threaded on the outside (appropriate thread) and smooth on the inside. Width of the nut is the dropout thickness.
With this nut threaded into the thru-axle holes, will the QR wheel fit with the standard QR skewer?
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Old 08-19-22, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by anga
Looking only at the front wheel. Assume 12mm thru-axle holes in the dropouts.
Will the following work?
The hollow QR axle has a diameter of 9mm.
Find a nut, 12mm od, 9mm id, threaded on the outside (appropriate thread) and smooth on the inside. Width of the nut is the dropout thickness.
With this nut threaded into the thru-axle holes, will the QR wheel fit with the standard QR skewer?
You are describing reducer bushings (M12x1.0 or 1.5 OD by 9mm ID) and these would have to be custom made by a machine shop as I don't think anyone makes them commercially. The cost could be quite high and probably it would be cheaper to get the correct hub.

Ironically, Problem Solvers makes an adapter to do just the opposite of what you want. They sell a 12mm front thru-axle with the ends reduced to fit standard 9mm fork dropouts so you can use a thru-axle hub in a conventional fork.
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Old 08-19-22, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
You are describing reducer bushings (M12x1.0 or 1.5 OD by 9mm ID) and these would have to be custom made by a machine shop as I don't think anyone makes them commercially. The cost could be quite high and probably it would be cheaper to get the correct hub.

Ironically, Problem Solvers makes an adapter to do just the opposite of what you want. They sell a 12mm front thru-axle with the ends reduced to fit standard 9mm fork dropouts so you can use a thru-axle hub in a conventional fork.
How about drilling a 9mm hole in an M12 hex bolt or set screw after cutting to length?
Or, google throws up a bunch of M12 reducer bushings.
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Old 08-19-22, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by anga
How about drilling a 9mm hole in an M12 hex bolt or set screw after cutting to length?
Or, google throws up a bunch of M12 reducer bushings.
Go right ahead. If you have access to the required machinery, anything is possible.
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Old 08-19-22, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Go right ahead. If you have access to the required machinery, anything is possible.
No need to be so competitive.
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Old 08-19-22, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by anga
No need to be so competitive.
Really? Throw out dumb ideas you gotta be ready for realistic replies.
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Old 08-20-22, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
Really? Throw out dumb ideas you gotta be ready for realistic replies.
You seem to find it hard to differentiate between an idea, its final form, and implementation.

A constructive comment would point out that the wall thickness is 1.5mm not 3mm and cannot accommodate 1.5 to 1.75mm thread pitch; would work for 15mm thru-axles; can be modified by using a 1.5mm shim in the non-threaded hole and probably use something like solder to preserve the threads in the threaded hole and a thin shim(beer can thickness) to protect solder.
There are other solutions but wasted on dumb people like you.
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Old 08-20-22, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by anga
You seem to find it hard to differentiate between an idea, its final form, and implementation.

A constructive comment would point out that the wall thickness is 1.5mm not 3mm and cannot accommodate 1.5 to 1.75mm thread pitch; would work for 15mm thru-axles; can be modified by using a 1.5mm shim in the non-threaded hole and probably use something like solder to preserve the threads in the threaded hole and a thin shim(beer can thickness) to protect solder.
There are other solutions but wasted on dumb people like you.
Some people seem to think when building a new bike from the frame up it's better to get all the proper parts rather than cludge together custom one off pieces to make incompatible parts "work"
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Old 08-21-22, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
Some people seem to think when building a new bike from the frame up it's better to get all the proper parts rather than cludge together custom one off pieces to make incompatible parts "work"
You should've quoted the first post rather than mine. I am not the OP.
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Old 08-21-22, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by anga
You should've quoted the first post rather than mine. I am not the OP.
No, he quoted the correct post.
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Old 08-22-22, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
Some people seem to think when building a new bike from the frame up it's better to get all the proper parts rather than cludge together custom one off pieces to make incompatible parts "work"
Oh yeah I totally get that. I was just asking in case there was a solution before I ended up spending money on a rear wheel.

All good. Now just waiting for the new wheel so I can finish this build. Thanks for your input. 😀
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