Tin_Man

So I know nothing of tire sizes and rim and what not. I am attempting to assemble and ebike and got ahold of a nice BMS 1000W hub motor, problem is it's a funky wheel size. The guy who sold it to me kept saying it's a 700c, but I look on the rim and I see that it says 622x19. From what I'm reading a 700c is a 27.5" Size, and a 622 is a 28" size yet both are called 29" wheels??? I'm going to assume the 622x19 size on the label is the more accurate number, and I was looking at good tires to fit a 622 and was thinking some Big Apple 55-622 tires. Will that fit on a 622x19 Rim? if not, what will fit? and what should I be looking for?

Bill Kapaun

Go by the 622.
Do not go by what you think you are reading.
https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

HillRider

ISO 622 is the same as 700c and is the rim's bead seat diameter in mm. 27.5" (aka 650B) has a rim diameter of 584 mm. 29" is another name for 700c rims using wide tires but the rim diameter remains 622mm. You need a 700c tire.

Tin_Man

Sweet Jesus! It's worse than I thought! You practically have to have the history of the tire before actually knowing what size they actually mean, and even then it's probably not accurate. According to that page 622 could still be 3 different sizes depending on where the tire is from! In any case, it does help narrow some options down, I think? While the 622 part I think I'm ok in making some choices in wheel diameter, it's the width I'm mostly concerned about. The x19 part of the label I gathered must be the size of the width of the rim since I took some calipers and measured from the inside of the rim and got 18ish mm. So the Big Apple tires I'm looking at are 55-622 model number, can I assume the 55 is the width of the tire? and Can a 55mm tire width fit a 19mm rim width? The guide mentions some issues regarding getting too wide a tire for a narrower rim, but the reasoning doesn't seem to be any good for today's disc breaking systems. I'm thinking of using hydraulic breaks on this bike while I'm at it.

cxwrench

BRAKES...not breaks. 55mm is a little wide for a 19mm rim but it will definitely work. Major pain if you had rim brakes, but with disc brakes it won't be an issue.

CliffordK

Does a 55mm tire fit on your bicycle?

There are quite a few different tire/rim size charts:







As @cxwrench says, 55mm is probably a little wide, but it should fit.

It is possible that at lower pressures, the more lightbulb shape of a tire will tend to roll side to side a bit more.

Tin_Man

Ok, now that's a better, more imaginable reason to try and not get too wide a tire. The contact point of the tire to the ground is only just a small part of the tire at any given time and, well yeah, if you get fat ass tire, it's going to essentially be shaped like a light bulb.... that is, if the tire is inflated to it's full PSI and has not give with the weight of the rider. So, would running on the lowest recommended PSI for the tire make things any better or worse for a tire this wide over the rim? I imagine it could potentially make the tire kinda wobbly maybe? Not sure. The reason I'm aiming for wider tires is because I intend to push that motor hard. From what I'm reading about it, it's rated at 1000w, but will happily run at 1500w continuous and peak at 3000w. I'm thinking wide wheels would be better traction for both stopping and starting quickly, but this whole narrow rim thing is throwing me off and what works for the bigger bikes may not be what will work for my situation.

CliffordK

If your bike has both the vertical clearance for the larger tires, as well as the width. And, your brakes work, then go ahead and try them out. The worst thing is you'll choose something else next time.

JohnDThompson 

"622 - 19" is the ISO/ETRTO tire size designation. The first number is the bead seat diameter, and tells you what diameter rim the tire will fit. The second number is the nominal width, and is not as important as long as the tire fits through your frame and fork. Confusingly, a 622mm bead seat diameter is the same as 700C and what is now referred to as 28" and "29er." "27.5" is the same as 650B, which has an ISO/ETRTO 584mm bead seat diameter.

My advice is to go by the ISO/ETRTO size designations and ignore all the other markings.

Bill Kapaun

So, you're expecting motorcycle performance from bicycle wheels?
Ever try a panic stop from those potential speeds?

dabac

This is unlikely to work out well for you.
Bicycles can look like bicycles only b/c they’re ridden like bicycles. At bicycle-appropriate average speeds, experiencing bicycle-appropriate impacts. With a rider that is also engine, cargo and part of the suspension.
1500W continuous is way outside what any bicycle expect to see and is likely to cause failures rather soon.
If you want a two-wheeled vehicle that’s reliable at that kind of power you need something that looks like moped.

CliffordK

It is no accident that E-Fat-Bikes are popular.

Heavy and slow when pedaled, and like a small motorcycle (without all the red tape or safety) when given an electric motor or gas engine..

Tin_Man

Hence the wide tires and hydrolic disk breaks. I'm not a daily rider, but the little bit of experience I do have riding bikes, I alway end up going Evil Knievel with it. My objective is to get as close to a motorcyle, without it looking like one. I alredy know I won't be able to get on the freeway with it, but I'm thinking I could do the steet speed limit at around 35mph. I'm actually going to use this to get around and the faster I can get there, the better. A bicycle can slip right through our horrid traffic areas and if I can keep a good speed everywhere else, I just might have something that's faster than a car. No vehicle registraton, no car insurance, no speeding tickets, no license issues, no car payments, no gas guzzling car and I can still make it from a to b without arriving soaked in sweat. That's the goal.

CliffordK

35 is mighty fast. You might look at small motorcycle helmets. Skull Cap?

E-Bike rules will vary from community to community. Many are legally restricted to 20 MPH. You may not have an issue on the open road, but if you became an annoyance to bike path users,

hokiefyd 

I suggest looking at it from the other direction. A 622mm bead seat diameter is always a 622mm bead seat diameter. There may be other notional/regional/fractional sizes in use by some parties, but going by the international standard (ISO) nomenclature will always get you to the correct place. A 55-622 will always be a ~55mm wide tire with a 622mm bead seat diameter.

I do think a 55mm tire on a 19mm internal width rim will work out fine -- especially a sturdy tire like a Schwalbe. I'd recommend keeping plenty of air in it...the wider you go without also widening the rim means the tire will want to "roll over" in corners. You want enough air pressure to support those forces as you lean into a corner.

djb

Evil, If you are American, I strongly suggest that you ensure that you have good heath insurance and a tire pump with a gauge to keep on top of pressures.

ClydeClydeson

700c, 622, 29" and 28" all use the same rim size and the tires are generally interchangeable.
'700', 29", and 28" refer to the nominal outside diameter of a wheel with arbitrary sizes of tire mounted. 700 generally has a narrow (23-28mm) road or medium (~32-40mm) hybrid or trekking tire, 28" is generally a medium hybrid or 'trekking tire, and 29" is a wide mountain bike tire. All these sizes use a rim with a bead seat diameter (the dimension that interfaces with the tire) of 622mm.

27.5 is a completely different size and anyone who told you otherwise doesn't know their arse from a hole in the ground. Put this person on ignore, unless they are irl friends, in which case, lock them in their own house for safety and improved chances for the human gene pool in the future.

You can, and many did for years, use tires that are much wider than the rim - the chart of acceptable tire widths did not exist in the early/mid 90s and we used 2.35" wide (~60mm) tires on 19mm wide rims all the time. There are a couple tradeoffs, like increased likelihood of pinch flats if the pressure was too low, and perhaps a bit less side-to-side stability than a more closely matched rim/tire pair, but until somebody made that chart we never thought much about it.

squirtdad

what frame do you have? better make sure any massive tires fit the frame

Pretty sure what you are trying to do is illegal across the entire united states

in california a Class3 bike (fastest before needing motor cycle licensing) is max 750 watts, 28 mph on level ground max and must disengage power when brakes are applied and

I have no problem with pedal assist ebikes, heck someday I might need one, ....but the dudes busting 20-25 on mups (where they are not allowed) on the their fat tire no pedal ebikes are a pain as they basically show no regard for anyone else kinda sounds where the OP is going