One Nut
#1
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One Nut
I was looking over one of my bikes, with the intention of identifying the minimum tools required to service the thing in the field. It turns out I can do anything that needs to be done with four sizes of allen/hex keys and a #2 phillips, except there is one (9mm?) nut used to hold the cable on the rear derailleur. What's up with that?
Anyway, does anyone know where I could get a cap nut made to be turned with an allen key wrench?
Anyway, does anyone know where I could get a cap nut made to be turned with an allen key wrench?
#2
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I encounter 9mm hex head nuts and screws frequently in the many bikes I repair. A 8-9-10 tri-wrench is relatively easy to carry. I reckon you can replace the hex head with an allen if you feel strongly about it, but I have to ask how many times will you mess with the cable anchor in the field? Do you carry an extra shift cable and cutters in the case that the cable breaks? In any case, there are many online and storefront fastener outfits that could help you. Make sure you spec the threading and diameter correctly.
Good luck to you and kudos for carrying tools. Many cyclists carry nothing.
Good luck to you and kudos for carrying tools. Many cyclists carry nothing.
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Instead of hunting down a cap nut, I'd spend $12 on one of these:
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A lot of older derailleurs used hex head bolts or hex nuts for their cable clamps. It's not unusual.
#5
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Never so far. However, I can't help thinking back to owning cheap bikes where that part slipped.
Yeah, I don't get that.
Yeah, I don't get that.
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The other place 9mm nuts show up is on Mafac brakes. The cable clamps at the straddle cable. Both nut and bolt head. I've used crescent wrenches more than once or twice to hold the screw. I make sure I have a 9mm open/box wrench handy. (I've seen kits skip that size.)
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It might be easier to replace the derailleur with one that has a common 5 mm Allen pinch bolt. But yeah, I wouldn't worry about field adjustment there. Unless you carry a spare cable and are touring extensively in undeveloped areas.
#9
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#10
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Good heavens. Grade 4 Ti is close to pure (unalloyed) Ti and as such is soft (but strong). The sellers claim to sell these to Explosive Ordnance Disposal folks. If my life depended upon a non-magnetic tool, ok. But use that thing on a bike (hardened steel bolts and nuts) about 5 times and your wrench may be toast. Ti is one of the worst (not the worst, I guess Manchego cheese wouold be worst) materials for a wrench. P. T. Barnum was right!
Some jobs you just have to have them.
Barry
#11
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If my comparisons of Rockwell B and C are good, the Ti is harder than BeCu. Can that be right?
#12
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Anyone else open this thread, expecting it to be about Lance?
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Well, I've picked this up for now. It weighs 15.21 grams.
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Have you tried those hex nuts they have on some cantilever or V brakes, to hold the pads on if I remember correctly?
#16
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Who is Lance Armstrong?
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I carry and recommend a Gerber "Cool Tool" for non-weight weenie types.
Specifically made as a bicycle carry tool, I think I've seen them in different configurations
4 Allens a chain breaker, adjustable wrench etc. It's not a "lite weight" tool though. Standard id say.
Specifically made as a bicycle carry tool, I think I've seen them in different configurations
4 Allens a chain breaker, adjustable wrench etc. It's not a "lite weight" tool though. Standard id say.
Last edited by macstuff; 10-19-21 at 01:35 PM.
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No, I'm sorry, Lance Armstrong is not the answer we were looking for.
We were looking for who is; an ego-maniacal has-been.... with one nut.
.... oh,... wait..... wrong thread.
Never mind
We were looking for who is; an ego-maniacal has-been.... with one nut.
.... oh,... wait..... wrong thread.
Never mind
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Yep... That's one tool I would not leave home without.
I mostly tinker about on old cheap bikes with buggered up Phillips or Common head bolts. I switch them out for Allens all the time. I have a ChiCom outlet stainless steel assortment box of mixed sizes and I just find one close and force it. I know it sounds bad and unprofessional but it works most of the time. If not yes I go through the motions of re-taping but I do prefer the Allens over Phillips heads...
I mostly tinker about on old cheap bikes with buggered up Phillips or Common head bolts. I switch them out for Allens all the time. I have a ChiCom outlet stainless steel assortment box of mixed sizes and I just find one close and force it. I know it sounds bad and unprofessional but it works most of the time. If not yes I go through the motions of re-taping but I do prefer the Allens over Phillips heads...
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Last edited by zandoval; 10-19-21 at 11:22 PM.
#21
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If you want to dive down that hole...
The cross head fasteners on japanese components are frequently JIS standard. Phillips screwdrivers can seem to fit, but have lots of slop because the tip angle is more acute compared to JIS. Slop means stripping!
Save the Phillips head drivers for your wood screws.
The cross head fasteners on japanese components are frequently JIS standard. Phillips screwdrivers can seem to fit, but have lots of slop because the tip angle is more acute compared to JIS. Slop means stripping!
Save the Phillips head drivers for your wood screws.
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#23
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If you want to dive down that hole...
The cross head fasteners on japanese components are frequently JIS standard. Phillips screwdrivers can seem to fit, but have lots of slop because the tip angle is more acute compared to JIS. Slop means stripping!
Save the Phillips head drivers for your wood screws.
The cross head fasteners on japanese components are frequently JIS standard. Phillips screwdrivers can seem to fit, but have lots of slop because the tip angle is more acute compared to JIS. Slop means stripping!
Save the Phillips head drivers for your wood screws.
Oh, what a difference when adjusting derailleurs!
#24
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