Shopping for my first!
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Shopping for my first!
Okay mountain bikers, would yall mind giving some suggestions for what bikes to check out. I want a mountain bike, more specifically I want to go mountain biking, but also have a great bike that I can throw some street tires on to ride on pavement. In other words, I want the best of both worlds. I'm not set on any specifics, actually I'm open to any suggestions given that I'm super new. I'm only 5' 8" so I would need a smaller frame. Im willing to spend up to $500. I imagine there are million bikes that qualify, sorry I cant really narrow it down much. Just one or two suggestions would be great! Thanks guys.
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It depends on what kind of mountain biking you intend to do. They range from full suspension motocross-lookin' downhill high jumpin' machines & span all the way to skinny-ish tire gravel/road bikes.
For road/street/gravel/singletrack use, I suggest something with hardtail & air/oil suspension forks with a lockout. You get reasonably well singletrack ability, absorbtion of tree roots & such, but don't lose all your pedaling efficiency with unnecessary suspension that'll never get used to it's full potential.
I have a 1997 Trek 6500zx & run down the full suspension riders on the paths in our woods constantly. They can't pedal as well when their bike is absorbing every pedal stroke...of course they kill me on the rough & can do jumps I'd never consider.
The field is HUGE and endlessly specialized with a bewildering variety of options. My suggestion of a hardtail & air/oil suspension forks with a lockout will yield a relativly inexpensive, generally capable all-rounder. You can buy another specialized bike when you decide which direction you want to go, discover what your local terrain offers & how/where you want to ride.
Sorry, I can't tell you to buy a specific make or model.
For road/street/gravel/singletrack use, I suggest something with hardtail & air/oil suspension forks with a lockout. You get reasonably well singletrack ability, absorbtion of tree roots & such, but don't lose all your pedaling efficiency with unnecessary suspension that'll never get used to it's full potential.
I have a 1997 Trek 6500zx & run down the full suspension riders on the paths in our woods constantly. They can't pedal as well when their bike is absorbing every pedal stroke...of course they kill me on the rough & can do jumps I'd never consider.
The field is HUGE and endlessly specialized with a bewildering variety of options. My suggestion of a hardtail & air/oil suspension forks with a lockout will yield a relativly inexpensive, generally capable all-rounder. You can buy another specialized bike when you decide which direction you want to go, discover what your local terrain offers & how/where you want to ride.
Sorry, I can't tell you to buy a specific make or model.
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^this, they choices are somewhat low at that range. First test ride the 27.5 or 29 tires size to narrow down your choices.
Your best value is used, but if you want the security of new, it's not a bad direction either.
I using direct folks in your pricepoint to check out the Giant Talon, in either 29 or 27.5
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-talon-29
Pretty basic bike but will be a few dollars cheaper than the other big brands.
Also look that these others which you should be able to find at a local bike shop (LBS), Jamis, Kona, Marin.
Your best value is used, but if you want the security of new, it's not a bad direction either.
I using direct folks in your pricepoint to check out the Giant Talon, in either 29 or 27.5
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-talon-29
Pretty basic bike but will be a few dollars cheaper than the other big brands.
Also look that these others which you should be able to find at a local bike shop (LBS), Jamis, Kona, Marin.
#5
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If you can find a mtn bike in good condition, used, you'll get more for your money (not telling you anything you don't already know). Or you might find an end of season sale or last years model on the floor of a local bike shop. Stay away from big box stores-buy from a bike shop. Specialized also makes a bike in your range (the Giant has an edge on some components-Giant usually does) . Here's the Specialized: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/pi...=263511-171052 Maybe check around some local mtn.biking groups (if any in your area) to see if any members are getting ready to sell their bike-I'd guess most riders start on a hardtail, and many may move up to full suspension at some point, selling their hardtail bike. Oh, and if you go the used route, if you aren't familiar with bikes and components, may want to take a knowledgeable friend with you to be sure you aren't buying a bike with problems.
#6
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As has been shared, it’s going to be tough to get the best of both worlds for $500 as this is where most companies entry level bike is priced. IMO changing tires is not worth the hassle and getting a semi slick or small tread mountain tire is a good compromise.
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I'm also shopping and considering options to get back to biking. A couple weeks ago I visited a local co-op, which had a few bikes they'd restored and gone over. None of the mountain bikes nor hybrids ready for sale fit me, but they said they'll have more before spring, and the prices were attractive. They also answered a lot of questions and helped me understand quite a bit. (I'm hoping to get some time to go back with my old late 80s/early 90s Schwinn World Sport and see if they can help me restore it as a gravel/rail-trail bike). This is my only experience with a co-op, but based solely on that if you have one nearby I'd pay them a visit.
#8
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When i got my first decent mountain bike I thought I get extra street tires for road use. Well after 2 changes, that got really tiring so I figured I should get spare wheels and just swap wheels. Well that meant readjusting brakes & gears every time even though they had nearly identical rims & hubs.. So now I have a really good full suspension mountain bike with knobs for riding on gravel roads (real gravel roads in farm territory) and for single track. Another mountain bike with street tires for commuting. Another mountain bike with studs for riding on ice. Another mountain bike for touring with fenders and racks, front dyno hub, wb cage and street tires that can handle non-paved roads and bike trails. Four mountain bikes configured differently seems about right. I've owned about 25 mountain bikes and most got sold off. Any others I still have will be sold.
Newer mountain bikes with full suspension and a decent fork are pretty good for trail riding but just about anything will do for street. There are so many older mountain bikes available for less than a pair of tires that make excellent urban bikes.
There is no one perfect bike. I raced and ridden enough mountain bike courses to learn that each course is better on a different bike. One bike may be excellent on a particular course where another does quite badly. And you would be surprised at which does better. it's not price or reputation.
Spend the money on a good trail bike and don't leave it out side the local coffee shop. Get a 20 year old mtb for town and you won't get upset when it gets stolen.
Newer mountain bikes with full suspension and a decent fork are pretty good for trail riding but just about anything will do for street. There are so many older mountain bikes available for less than a pair of tires that make excellent urban bikes.
There is no one perfect bike. I raced and ridden enough mountain bike courses to learn that each course is better on a different bike. One bike may be excellent on a particular course where another does quite badly. And you would be surprised at which does better. it's not price or reputation.
Spend the money on a good trail bike and don't leave it out side the local coffee shop. Get a 20 year old mtb for town and you won't get upset when it gets stolen.
#9
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Due to budget constraints, I would look for a used hardtail.
#10
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Get a 26 or 27.5 bike. 29ers are good for tall people but the geometry on them tends to suck. The frame geometry sucks for tall people and it's much worse for short people. You have be realistic about where you intend to ride. Riding in actual mountains isn't easy, especially if you're out of shape. If you install road tires on it you'll never use it offroad. Even with two sets of wheels/tires you have to might have to match wheel hubs to get that road/off-road system working well. If you have mechanical aptitude buy any old used bike that strikes your fancy and modify it to your needs. That's the best place to start.
You might go thru several iterations before you know what kind of bike suits your needs so cheap is a good place to begin. People practically give away old bikes at garage sales. If you find an almost free bike though it's easy to spend a few hundred dollars on new drivetrain parts, tires, cables, a saddle and whatnot.
You might go thru several iterations before you know what kind of bike suits your needs so cheap is a good place to begin. People practically give away old bikes at garage sales. If you find an almost free bike though it's easy to spend a few hundred dollars on new drivetrain parts, tires, cables, a saddle and whatnot.
Last edited by Clem von Jones; 11-22-19 at 04:37 PM.
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We've had a lot of "my first cheap bike" threads in this sub forum lately and although it seems like a lot of people wind up on Trek Marlins, the Rockhopper with the new 1x9 drive train looked pretty good to me. But it's $800. Your price point is pretty difficult, it gets you out of the department-store quality level but only barely, and the bike you get is not much different than something at the same price from 20 years ago. This is frustrating, a lot of really good features could be made more cheaply but the manufacturers are choosing to keep them at higher price points.
The good news is that putting slicks on the $500 bike is probably going to work better than on the $1500 bike. But changing tires is too much of a pain to do all the time, I only do it when there's going to be a prolonged period where I'm not doing the other sort of riding. Right now with my 7.5-mi round trip commute, the knobbies are fine. They wear out quicker, but it still takes a year or two.
The good news is that putting slicks on the $500 bike is probably going to work better than on the $1500 bike. But changing tires is too much of a pain to do all the time, I only do it when there's going to be a prolonged period where I'm not doing the other sort of riding. Right now with my 7.5-mi round trip commute, the knobbies are fine. They wear out quicker, but it still takes a year or two.
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