Nniiccoo

Hi all,

I’m restoring a vintage Schwinn Varsity (circa 71-76) and stripping the steel frame of all unnecessary pieces so I can have it sand blasted and then repaint it. I’ve run into a couple issues and wondering if I anyone can offer some guidance.

1. The cable holder for the rear derailleur (see attached pics) is held on with a short, flathead screw with a notch on the end of the thread side, and it seems hopelessly stuck in the frame. I’m not sure if there is a trick to removing these notched screws, or if the problem is that the screw is oxidized to the frame. Any ideas?
2. Is there a way to remove the polished steel plating and rings around the seat stem/front fork without hurting them?

Thanks for the help!
Nick

Andrew R Stewart 

1- Sounds like the stop's screw was indented (by a cold chisel I'd guess) to keep the screw from loosening. Or at some time by the chain's scraping against it. Since you'll be repainting I suggest trying some real heat, like a propane torch flame. You don't say anything about trying a penetrating oil, pretty common first effort.

2- Yes. The seat collar (a assume that's what you're describing) usually slides off. Unless it was welded/brazed in place. But if that were the case the collar would not likely be chromed. The fork crown "spat" is often held on by the crown race. Is that removed yet? Andy

dedhed

Sounds like you want to remove the headset cups.

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Nniiccoo

Thanks for your help!

I started with penetrating oil with no luck. I’ll try a propane torch next and update with the results.

I’m limited in what I can post because I haven’t reached my quota of ten posts yet, but I’ll comment back soon with pics of what I’m talking about.

Nniiccoo

this helps! One of the pieces I was looking to remove was the headset cup, but I wasn’t sure what it was called.

[QUOTE=dedhed;22216846]Sounds like you want to remove the headset cups.

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Andrew R Stewart 

All the fittings that contact the frame or fork should be removed before any paint removal or reapplication happens, Every screw, cover, bearing cup and the headtube badge. If you are thinking of any alterations or additions do them now too, before repainting.

A solid, long and big slotted screwdriver and a hammer (or hammer like object) and the head tube and BB shell cups can be tapped out. Work the driver slot tip around the cup as you tap, don't let the cup get too cockeyed as it is removed. Note that the headset cups could have specific lower and upper cups, mark each piece somehow to remember how they are assembled. I have used sandwich/zip bags to store parts for later cleaning and final reassembly.

Some Schwinns have had simple solder layered over the rough points in the joints. A friend of mine, many years ago and before she started to build frames, was surprised at some grey liquid running off the bike she was burning paint off of. Andy

dedhed

I like to use a zip tie to keep headset parts together in the correct order.
Another item that people sometimes have trouble with on Schwinns is figuring out the kickstand.

Nniiccoo

Cups, crowns and spat have been removed successfully. The only thing left is the notched bolt, and I’ll use a torch to heat it up tomorrow.

thanks for the help!