tool for driving in cartridge bearings?
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tool for driving in cartridge bearings?
I'm going to replace the bearings (6200RS) in a set of Suzue hubs. I found some good DIY material and I see that the new bearings can be tapped in, using an old bearing and a hammer. Apparently there's a professional tool for pressing them in, although I can't find out what it is. Even the Park Tool site just says - darkly - that this job requires special tools and should be left to the pros. What is this tool and is it avaliable somewhere?
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Arbor press
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A socket just slightly smaller than the bearing works well. You want to be sure the force is applied only to the outer race of the bearing.
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I replaced the cartridge bearings in a Suntour XC front hub and it is not that hard to do. The socket idea works well and just take it slow and only put force on the outer race.
#5
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Yup, Arbor press, is how you provide the even steady force to press in/out bearings.
At its simple self, its a steel arch with a hydraulic jack to do the pressing.
channel Iron, hot rolled.
the socket is fine, chosen so it presses on the edge of the bearing
At its simple self, its a steel arch with a hydraulic jack to do the pressing.
channel Iron, hot rolled.
the socket is fine, chosen so it presses on the edge of the bearing
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A large C-clamp threaded through the spokes with a block of wood protecting the off-side of the hub can be substituted for an arbor press.
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I assumed the Park Tool site's reference to special tools meant special bike tools. An arbor press would have to have a really deep arbor to accommodate a wheel. The socket is a good idea.
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Harbor Freight has an arbor press for just $40, which is similar to one I used at a former job.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ress-3551.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ress-3551.html
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Harbor Freight has an arbor press for just $40, which is similar to one I used at a former job.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ress-3551.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ress-3551.html
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Sometimes it is helpful to heat one part gently with a heat gun and/or put the other part in a freezer to take advantage of thermal contraction and expansion. That can make a huge difference in getting a bearing to press on easily. Also, whether you should pressure on the inner or outer race depends on whether you're pressing it onto a shaft (inner race) or into a recess (outer race).
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You do not need to drive these bearing. while they fit snugly you should be able to install the new ones with the old axle (as dowel/punch) and rubber mallet.
There is a special tool for removing them which helps tremendously
SEALED BEARING REMOVER Price: $3.95
Item #UB-TA340: A simple spring clip puller that grabs the back side of sealed bearings, allowing them to be driven out with a punch. Fits bearings with an inner diameter of 10 - 25mm.</B>
More Bearing Tools
More Hub and Axle Tools
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...em_id=UB-TA340
There is a special tool for removing them which helps tremendously

Item #UB-TA340: A simple spring clip puller that grabs the back side of sealed bearings, allowing them to be driven out with a punch. Fits bearings with an inner diameter of 10 - 25mm.</B>


https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...em_id=UB-TA340
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My experience with cartridge bearings is limited to servicing old woodworking machinery. Some of those bearings take a lot of force to press, which is probably necessary when you have a powerful electric motor driving a machine at 3450 rpm. Not so much for bicycle bearings....
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I've replaced these sorts of bearings before, but not on a bicycle. Often one can just drive them in with a block of wood and a hammer - it depends on accuracy of the machining and the strength of the receiving part. A bike hub is somewhat thin and fragile. Hey that "Sealed Bearing Remover" looks great for the price.
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If the hubs are not laced to rims, you can usually do this job with a
bench vise that opens wide enough and the proper sized socket
to press in the bearing cartridge. The hammer and wood block thing
works, in the absence of anything else.
I've done automotive U joint bearings both ways.
I had one of those arbor presses from Harbor Freight, and it works
pretty well, but takes up a huge space so I got rid of it.
Edit: make sure you lubricate the receiving hole with a little grease.
bench vise that opens wide enough and the proper sized socket
to press in the bearing cartridge. The hammer and wood block thing
works, in the absence of anything else.
I've done automotive U joint bearings both ways.
I had one of those arbor presses from Harbor Freight, and it works
pretty well, but takes up a huge space so I got rid of it.
Edit: make sure you lubricate the receiving hole with a little grease.
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Someone may if they got some used hubs and wanted to change the bearings before building them.
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Bicycle Research makes a fancy kit that will do it. I haven't used it myself, but it looks like it will do the job. The key is to drive them in straight. Cocked or crooked are not desirable.
https://www.bicycleresearchtools.com/wheelt.html
https://www.bicycleresearchtools.com/wheelt.html
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'Got my old ones out tapping the axle with a block of wood, put the new ones in with the old bearings and tapping it gently into place. It worked like a charm and the hub (1998-ish Campy) is sweet and smooth.
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The Boca Bearing tool looks nice and is almost affordable. These wheels are well used and if I were to somehow damage a hub it would not be a big disaster. If they were expensive newer wheels I'd probably buy this tool.
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I used this for mine. The drivers are thick and can be stacked. A 5/8" bolt (7/16" shaft) can be used to press the bearings in. The bearings can be tapped out with a punch or bolt. Worked like a champ and it can press many sizes.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bushing...set-38145.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/bushing...set-38145.html
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I looked at one locally, and the working throw of that press is pretty short. I doubt one could even stand a hub in it.