Tubular to clincher: replace entire wheelset or just rims?
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Tubular to clincher: replace entire wheelset or just rims?
Hello all,
I am new to bicycle mechanics so this question may be a no-brainer:
I just bought a beautiful 1986 Schwinn Peloton with all original components but I want to use clincher tires instead of tubular tires. The wheels are true and in amazing shape but the rims are built for tubular tires. So, does it make more sense to have just the rims replaced or to trade the entire wheelset in for one with clincher rims? I understand that either can be done but I don't know if it would be too labor intensive (and expensive) to switch out the rims on the stock wheels.
Any information would help a ton!
I am new to bicycle mechanics so this question may be a no-brainer:
I just bought a beautiful 1986 Schwinn Peloton with all original components but I want to use clincher tires instead of tubular tires. The wheels are true and in amazing shape but the rims are built for tubular tires. So, does it make more sense to have just the rims replaced or to trade the entire wheelset in for one with clincher rims? I understand that either can be done but I don't know if it would be too labor intensive (and expensive) to switch out the rims on the stock wheels.
Any information would help a ton!
#2
Constant tinkerer
On a bike of that caliber I'd keep the original wheelset (it belongs with the bike) and get a set of whatever clinchers you want to use as a daily rider wheelset.
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My guess is it'd be cheaper and easier to sell these wheels and get a pair of clincher rims new or used... or offer your tubular wheels in trade for equivalent clincher wheels. Sounds like you haven't built your own wheels before, but if you're interested in giving it a try it'd be pretty easy if you can find some clincher rims with the same drilling and ERD.
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I agree.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Things to consider:
1. Is the Peloton hub a freehub or freewheel hub?
2. Yours is also a 126mm width, modern are usually 130mm (axle outside locknut to locknut)
1. Is the Peloton hub a freehub or freewheel hub?
2. Yours is also a 126mm width, modern are usually 130mm (axle outside locknut to locknut)
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72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
There are actually 4 choices:
Build on old hub
Switch out for freewheel style 700c wheel (keep or trade)
Switch out for cassette compatible wheel, purchase new cassette, chain, rear derailleur and lever/cable set.
The last option is much more expensive, and I would not recommend it. No point in getting a vintage bike if you're going to throw out the rear section of drive train and then pay more than an equivalent modern bike would cost.
Build on old hub
Switch out for freewheel style 700c wheel (keep or trade)
Switch out for cassette compatible wheel, purchase new cassette, chain, rear derailleur and lever/cable set.
The last option is much more expensive, and I would not recommend it. No point in getting a vintage bike if you're going to throw out the rear section of drive train and then pay more than an equivalent modern bike would cost.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 07-19-12 at 03:39 PM.
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+1 on FastJake's suggestion; don't break up the set. You might want to sell it down the road and not having the original wheelset will seriously impact the resale value of your classic bike. The same goes for any original parts you might want to replace; keep them.
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This is a nice bike but it's not anybody's holy grail bike. He could easily spend more on a new pair of wheels than the whole thing is worth. If he can find a good pair to trade for he shouldn't second guess himself. I'm not convinced it came with original tubulars in the first place... by 1985 tubulars were only on the most serious of race bikes as standard equipment. 1985 was the year Specialized and Avocet came out with really good clinchers and most complete bikes came with clinchers... racers had a special set of sewups built for race day.
#9
Constant tinkerer
This is a nice bike but it's not anybody's holy grail bike. He could easily spend more on a new pair of wheels than the whole thing is worth. If he can find a good pair to trade for he shouldn't second guess himself. I'm not convinced it came with original tubulars in the first place... by 1985 tubulars were only on the most serious of race bikes as standard equipment.
Well sure. He could spend more on a rear derailer than the whole bike is worth if he shops well enough. But IMHO that bike is too nice to break the original wheelset from it.
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Thanks, everyone, for the helpful input!
The Peloton definitely has the original wheels (Suntour Superbe hubs, Araya ADX-4 rims) but I am receiving it without tires so I can't test it out unless I buy some. I want to use this as my daily rider bike around town and would prefer to use clincher tires. Otherwise it would be nice to change as little as possible - I don't want to replace the drivetrain or lever/cable set. I would also prefer to find replacement wheels that ride as close as possible to the originals but I'm willing to be flexible about this.
How much would it cost (in labor) to have a shop build new wheels from the existing hubs? Although this sounds like an appealing option, I'm leaning toward trading the wheelset in for a comparable one with clincher rims. Keeping the original wheelset so as not to compromise the resell value of the bike also sounds smart but I will most likely be keeping the bike for a long time and I'm not too concerned about keeping everything stock. Still, I understand it might be a mistake to let the original wheelset go...
The freewheel is a Suntour New Winner Ultra 7 (7-speed). What should I be looking for in a replacement wheelset? 700c, 126mm spacing, I understand, but what else?
Any further information would be much appreciated!
The Peloton definitely has the original wheels (Suntour Superbe hubs, Araya ADX-4 rims) but I am receiving it without tires so I can't test it out unless I buy some. I want to use this as my daily rider bike around town and would prefer to use clincher tires. Otherwise it would be nice to change as little as possible - I don't want to replace the drivetrain or lever/cable set. I would also prefer to find replacement wheels that ride as close as possible to the originals but I'm willing to be flexible about this.
How much would it cost (in labor) to have a shop build new wheels from the existing hubs? Although this sounds like an appealing option, I'm leaning toward trading the wheelset in for a comparable one with clincher rims. Keeping the original wheelset so as not to compromise the resell value of the bike also sounds smart but I will most likely be keeping the bike for a long time and I'm not too concerned about keeping everything stock. Still, I understand it might be a mistake to let the original wheelset go...
The freewheel is a Suntour New Winner Ultra 7 (7-speed). What should I be looking for in a replacement wheelset? 700c, 126mm spacing, I understand, but what else?
Any further information would be much appreciated!
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126mm hubs are no longer produced, but they are not rare. Finding a 700c 126mm/100mm second-hand wheelset with clincher rims shouldn't be too hard. The other option would be to score a 126mm/100mm hubset and have a shop lace these to new clincher rims. Swap out the freewheel, keep the tubular wheels. Doesn't sound like you're looking for a lot of performance, so basic hubs/rims/spokes will do. Still, having wheels laced will cost some $$.
You could also buy a 130mm current wheelset and either cold set (spread) the rear fork (but then the old wheels wouldn't fit anymore) or force the 130mm into the 126mm frame, but I'm no fan of this.
As said before: try riding the tubulars some day, it does make a big difference, and with tyre sealand punctures are not such a big problem anymore.
You could also buy a 130mm current wheelset and either cold set (spread) the rear fork (but then the old wheels wouldn't fit anymore) or force the 130mm into the 126mm frame, but I'm no fan of this.
As said before: try riding the tubulars some day, it does make a big difference, and with tyre sealand punctures are not such a big problem anymore.
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So would a wheelset like this work ?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Mavi...#ht_1667wt_945
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Just buy any clincher wheels with a cassette, 10 speed or whatever and put them in there. If are 130 nothing is going to happen the bike is made of steel. It will work just fine.
Sell the tubular wheels, it is a crime to just take them appart because you dont use tubulars. If you are in DC metro let me know and I might buy them from you.
Good luck.
Sell the tubular wheels, it is a crime to just take them appart because you dont use tubulars. If you are in DC metro let me know and I might buy them from you.
Good luck.
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So would a wheelset like this work ?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Mavi...#ht_1667wt_945