Finally found a Paramount
#51
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Feel free Kurt.
#52
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Excellent job so far! With a white background you could print your own decals on clear water slide decal paper and make your own decals. Someone on the forums did the artwork for the downtube decal a few months back. The others are just colored stripes which would be pretty easy. Use a laserjet printer and clear laserjet decal paper. Reynolds and Campagnolo decals can be obtained on ebay.
#53
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I love that flake. I wasn't crazy about the PC I had done on a frame, mainly because of the plasticky look, but that metal flake really goes a long way in giving the depth that paint has. Nice! Can't wait to see decals.
#54
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I ordered a set of decals from velocals. They should be here next week.
#57
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Well done.
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"When I hear another express an opinion, which is not mine, I say to myself, He has a right to his opinion, as I to mine; why should I question it. His error does me no injury, and shall I become a Don Quixot to bring all men by force of argument, to one opinion? If a fact be misstated, it is probable he is gratified by a belief of it, and I have no right to deprive him of the gratification."
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#58
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Be sure to get some Letraline 2 pt. wide black tape for just inside the paint to chrome transition... seal the tape end with a small dab of clear nail polish, so the start stop point of the tape should be at the back or underside of the tube... reference the earlier image of the other frame in original white for reference, this was originally a wider white, black decal, but you don't need all that...
#59
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If you go the Autobody paint route, there is a window of opportunity after the color stage and before the clear, usually 24 hours MAX, plan well and don't push it, color earlier in the day and clear at the end is better, decals in between. Dupont Chromabase for example is dry to handle in an hour, just get clear on it within the next 24, the clear by the way is two stage, and I would not encourage the painter to load up on "Blendzall", great for smooth paint, but I would worry about eating the decals.
102_0436..jpg
OUCH!
#60
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I received my decals from JR yesterday and applied them this morning. Looks pretty good! There are 2 layers too the decals, but I was having a hell of a time getting the outside sticker to stay and hold the decal in place. So I used painters tape and it worked really well. I have most of the parts I need for the build, but I still need some wheels and an appropriate stem. I have something special in mind for those though.
Last edited by rbaisa; 05-17-11 at 11:24 AM.
#61
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Beautiful! That looks like a different bike than the one you started out with.
I have JR decals on one of my chrome Paramounts. His product is nice.
I have JR decals on one of my chrome Paramounts. His product is nice.
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1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#63
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#66
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Well it's been almost 2 years and I finally got back to working on this project again. I decided to go with wooden rims, campy high flange hubs and I reallllllly wanted a Nitto lugged stem. I finally got it all together and am ready to proceed. Here are some pics! I still have a bunch of polishing to de and need a 5 speed cog. I tried to but a 6 speed on there, but it was too big and won't work. I am hoping to have this done in the next month or so.
#68
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What made you select wooden rims? I've seen them before and think they look very good, but wondered about their ride quality and strength. Please let us know how your experience with them goes. That is going to be a beautiful bike!
CMC
CMC
#69
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I have always wanted to build a set of wheels with wooden rims, so I figured what the hell. I found them on cheap on ebay, someone's unfinished project. They were not easy to build; it's like truing a rubber band. I believe they actually raced wooden rims into the late 60's so I think they are pretty strong. The problem I just ran into is that I really should use cork break pads with these wheels and they don't make them for 70's Campy breaks as far as I can tell. Sooooo I am thinking I am going to have to make some.
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