What's wrong with my wheels?
05-01-05, 10:34 PM
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What's wrong with my wheels?
I have a pair of Mavric cxp22's and I like them, not love them, but they get the job done, but it seems like I have to get the wheels trued every 3 weeks or so. I read on this board that some people get thousands of miles without having to true their wheels, how do you do this? Mine just seem like they go out of whack way too easily. Should I look into upgrading the wheels, or just stick with these?
05-01-05, 10:41 PM
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If you need to get them trued ever 3 weeks, you need to change the "turer"... A good truing job which includes re-tensioning all the spokes, checking for proper dish, and proper round, and you should be good for 1000 miles of care free riding..
Some "mechanics" just put the wheel on the truing stand and all they do is get the kink out of the wheel.. sometimes screwing up the tension of the spokes..
Some "mechanics" just put the wheel on the truing stand and all they do is get the kink out of the wheel.. sometimes screwing up the tension of the spokes..
05-03-05, 05:52 AM
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This wheel is probably under-tensioned. When spokes are not tight enough, the nipples will tend to loosen up. Go to a different shop. Have the mechanic check the overall tension of the wheel with a tension meter. If they don't use a tension meter, go to a different shop. Most rim manufacturers will recommend a tension of 95-110 Kgf for a front wheel and 110-120 Kgf for the drive side of a rear wheel. You should not require a retrue of a wheel unless you hit something big enough to knock it out.
05-03-05, 06:22 AM
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sorry to bearer of bad news - bad rims get rid of them as fast as you can. They caused me the same problems - wheels out of true, broken spokes - all this on 36 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless.
The reason my LBS (condor cycles https://www.condorcycles.com/pages/about.htm ) was the lack of eyelets. I've since moved to CXP33(which has eyelets) on 32 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless with no problems at all.
The reason my LBS (condor cycles https://www.condorcycles.com/pages/about.htm ) was the lack of eyelets. I've since moved to CXP33(which has eyelets) on 32 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless with no problems at all.
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Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
05-03-05, 10:42 AM
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Sounds like a poor build job to start with. I have cxp-21's that I run the crap out of, over curbs and potholes and stuff and they're fine.
Are you taking your weight out of the saddle when you go over rough patches and bumps in the road? Letting your legs absorb the impact takes a lot of the force out of impacts rather than just staying in the saddle and jack hammering the force right into the wheel.
I'd probably try to find a different wheel mechanic like people said. Wheel building is an art and some of the younger guys just don't have it yet. A wheel built with three cross pattern in the rear using some quality Wheelsmith spokes should stay true for quite a while.
Are you taking your weight out of the saddle when you go over rough patches and bumps in the road? Letting your legs absorb the impact takes a lot of the force out of impacts rather than just staying in the saddle and jack hammering the force right into the wheel.
I'd probably try to find a different wheel mechanic like people said. Wheel building is an art and some of the younger guys just don't have it yet. A wheel built with three cross pattern in the rear using some quality Wheelsmith spokes should stay true for quite a while.
05-03-05, 11:01 AM
#7
Originally Posted by markhr
sorry to bearer of bad news - bad rims get rid of them as fast as you can. They caused me the same problems - wheels out of true, broken spokes - all this on 36 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless.
The reason my LBS (condor cycles https://www.condorcycles.com/pages/about.htm ) was the lack of eyelets. I've since moved to CXP33(which has eyelets) on 32 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless
The reason my LBS (condor cycles https://www.condorcycles.com/pages/about.htm ) was the lack of eyelets. I've since moved to CXP33(which has eyelets) on 32 hole 3 cross straight gauge stainless
05-03-05, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sydney
It's all a bunch of nonsense,expecially the business about lack of eyelets. Lots of quality rims are built with out them.Nothing wrong with cxp22s either if they are built right. Since they are common oem rim the build is very often poor. Only complete retensioning by someone that knows what they are doing is the fix....I have the same rims built around ultegra hubs and have yet to have to mess with them.Better than I can say for many supposedly 'superior' wheels.
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shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
05-03-05, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by markhr
Have to agree to disagree - my LBS(quite possibly the best in London) tried everything from retensioning, replacing and finally completely rebuilding with no success. Personally I'll never touch cxp22 again but if they work for you then crack on.
05-03-05, 11:51 AM
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Depends on how much you weigh and how many spokes.
But I'll wager to guess the tension is way off on the wheel "as a whole". Trueing one section of the rim doesn't mean the rest is going to be OK. Everything I've read says the most important aspect of a wheel build is equal tension throughout the wheel (among other things).
I have some Mavic MA2 (36 spoke) machine built wheels I bought just so I could have an absolutely bulletproof "set it and forget it" wheel. After only 1 week they were already going out of true and spokes were coming loose . My 32 spoke Aeroheads could go 2000-3000 miles without any attention.
I was like WTH? If I didn't read these forums I'd think these rims were garbage. Anyway to make it short I had my LBS completely rebuild them wheel and do all the nice touchs. No problems since.
But I'll wager to guess the tension is way off on the wheel "as a whole". Trueing one section of the rim doesn't mean the rest is going to be OK. Everything I've read says the most important aspect of a wheel build is equal tension throughout the wheel (among other things).
I have some Mavic MA2 (36 spoke) machine built wheels I bought just so I could have an absolutely bulletproof "set it and forget it" wheel. After only 1 week they were already going out of true and spokes were coming loose . My 32 spoke Aeroheads could go 2000-3000 miles without any attention.
I was like WTH? If I didn't read these forums I'd think these rims were garbage. Anyway to make it short I had my LBS completely rebuild them wheel and do all the nice touchs. No problems since.
