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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Windsor Knight Assembly

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Old 05-21-10, 03:56 PM
  #51  
chewybrian 
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Nice pics. I've been looking hard at that bike. The components would be great for another build, and the frame would be great to make a frankenbike commuter. The big negative to me is the wheelset. I'm too big for a 24 spoke rear wheel. Do they have any resale value?

Would somone pay more than $100 for the wheels, unused, on Craigslist? Maybe $200 for the wheels and tires? Am I dreaming there? That would seal the deal for me.
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Old 07-30-10, 05:37 PM
  #52  
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1800 miles...still awesome, no problems whatsoever! I'm pretty impressed actually, this thing is a speed demon. At no point do I ever feel like it's slowing me down or going to fall apart. It feels solid, accelerates quickly, works great as a daily commuter, and does the group ride thing well. Even the BB and crankset that I wasn't sure of are performing well, so I can't complain about it. Pretty much all I do is lube the chain and wipe the bike off now and then.
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Old 07-30-10, 05:49 PM
  #53  
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Glad you are happy with it. i'm quite happy with my Ti Cross bike from BD. I also bought a Kenent for parts. Anyone want to buy the frame, 56cm...
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Old 07-30-10, 06:48 PM
  #54  
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Really embarrassing bike.
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Old 09-12-10, 07:41 AM
  #55  
Bruce Winter
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Good morning,

I also purchased a Knight and it arrived in very good condition. The problem I have though is with chainline. When coming off the middle chainring back to the smaller one the chain is not quite making it back onto the ring (rides in between the two rings). The local mechanic said that the derailleurs are adjusted properly and that it must be a compatibilty issue between sram and Shimano. The only way I can get the chain off the middle ring and back onto the smaller one is by having the chain on the 4th cog of the freewheel. This is much too low of a gear to be in when coming off of a middle chainring. Have you had this problem? I was hoping for suggestions to correct the problem. I'd rather Not spend $250 on a new crankset. I've never used chainline spacers and do not know if they would even work on this bottom bracket.

Thank in advance for the help

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Old 09-12-10, 08:09 AM
  #56  
sced
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The lower stop screw is probably not adjusted to allow the FD cage to move sufficiently inwards, pulling the chain with it. Turn the adjustment screw outwards an eighth or quarter turn at a time until it works properly. A note is that when riding, FD's usually need to be "trimmed" with some gear combinations, which is moving the FD in half steps from ring to ring. Your left brifter should allow for this. So in use, you may need to shift down onto the small ring and then trim to keep the chain from rubbing the cage.

Last edited by sced; 09-12-10 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 09-12-10, 08:23 AM
  #57  
Bruce Winter
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Thank you,

I adjusted the derailleur and then even brought to my local mechanic who stated all was adjusted properly. That is why I was asking about chainline spacers for the bottom bracket. I'm old school and am use to working with cranks older than 10+ years. With my trek I would have simply added a slightly longer spindle (low cost. However, because these new cranks use external bearing systems and in my case actually has the sping attached to the drive-side crank, i cannot do so.
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