Road Bike Saddle for a 200 Pounder?
#1
eMail Sold to Spammers
Thread Starter
Road Bike Saddle for a 200 Pounder?
I have just gotten into road cycling. I am doing it to lose weight. I am currently at ~201#. I have lost 5# in about 3 weeks of cycling which is a good enough pace for me.
The problem that I am running into is that I am a bit sore in my nether regions. It is not from chaffing. It is from the small saddle and the extra 30-40 pounds that I have resting on it. It feels like my prostate is taking a beating from the bumps in the road.
Does anyone have any suggestions on a road bike saddle for a 200 pounder?
The problem that I am running into is that I am a bit sore in my nether regions. It is not from chaffing. It is from the small saddle and the extra 30-40 pounds that I have resting on it. It feels like my prostate is taking a beating from the bumps in the road.
Does anyone have any suggestions on a road bike saddle for a 200 pounder?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 646
Bikes: Surly LHT set up for commuting
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Everyone has a different butt shape & your weight has little to do with the discomfort. This topic is covered fairly frequently so a search will give you more info.
- Coasting is bad. If you are constantly pedaling then your weight is on your legs and arms and not 100% on your butt. Road bikes & their saddles are not meant for "sitting", they are there to keep the frame between your legs and provide another anchor point (hands and feet are the others). Sitting on a road saddle will result in a sore butt.
- A notched saddle (cut out) can help with taint pressure & rubbing
- Saddle width is critical. Dealers who sell Specialized BG saddles have an instrument for measuring sit bone spacing. This will let you know how wide a saddle you should try (a starting point, not a final answer).
- Correct saddle height, tilt, and forward/rear placement is critical
- Coasting is bad. If you are constantly pedaling then your weight is on your legs and arms and not 100% on your butt. Road bikes & their saddles are not meant for "sitting", they are there to keep the frame between your legs and provide another anchor point (hands and feet are the others). Sitting on a road saddle will result in a sore butt.
- A notched saddle (cut out) can help with taint pressure & rubbing
- Saddle width is critical. Dealers who sell Specialized BG saddles have an instrument for measuring sit bone spacing. This will let you know how wide a saddle you should try (a starting point, not a final answer).
- Correct saddle height, tilt, and forward/rear placement is critical
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,621
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 485 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I think the consensus is that a saddle is a very user specific choice.
FWIW I went and got my sit bones measured at a Specialized shop and bought a Toupe. I now have one of those on both bikes and luv 'em.
FWIW I went and got my sit bones measured at a Specialized shop and bought a Toupe. I now have one of those on both bikes and luv 'em.
#4
eMail Sold to Spammers
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. I did do a title search in this forum for "road" and "saddle" but nothing came up on the search.
I think I know why I was a bit extra sore yesterday now. I was riding with my coworker who cruises at 15 mph on his bike and I usually cruise around 20 mph. There were long stretches where I would pedal for 2 seconds, then coast for 5 seconds. Next time I'll just ride my mountain bike when I know he is coming with me.
I'll check out more saddles at my LBS's.
I think I know why I was a bit extra sore yesterday now. I was riding with my coworker who cruises at 15 mph on his bike and I usually cruise around 20 mph. There were long stretches where I would pedal for 2 seconds, then coast for 5 seconds. Next time I'll just ride my mountain bike when I know he is coming with me.
I'll check out more saddles at my LBS's.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Ramon
Posts: 112
Bikes: Trek Road Bike, Weyless MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If you haven't done it yet, invest in a bike fit. You can usually get one done for 80 dollars or so. This will ensure that you are putting all the weight in the right places.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lexington KY
Posts: 476
Bikes: Salsa Casseroll for Street and Airborne Hobgoblin for dirt
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I just ordered a brooks imperial for my road bike. I am hoping the investment pays off with longer rides.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
Fizik Aliente VS. I like mine, and tip the scales at about 235 lbs.
I don't know how reliable these are, but some reviews I read before trying one for myself: https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/co...8_2509crx.aspx
I don't know how reliable these are, but some reviews I read before trying one for myself: https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/co...8_2509crx.aspx
#8
Double Naught Spy
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,722
Bikes: 2010 Scott CR1 Comp, 2013 Scott Scale 960 MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 374
Bikes: Seven Axiom S
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Fizik Aliente VS. I like mine, and tip the scales at about 235 lbs.
I don't know how reliable these are, but some reviews I read before trying one for myself: https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/co...8_2509crx.aspx
I don't know how reliable these are, but some reviews I read before trying one for myself: https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/co...8_2509crx.aspx
Edit: I'm 225 lbs (5'10")
#11
Cat 5 field stuffer
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hammond, La
Posts: 1,426
Bikes: Wabi Lightning RE, Wabi Classic
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
3 Posts
I bought a new Trek 2.3 and it came with a torture stick to sit on. I made it about 60 miles, went back to LBS and randomly picked one of four loaner saddles. The first try was a winner and I refused to give the loaner back even for a new one. The morale of the story for me is: Stock seats suck!
Surprisingly the new comfy saddle looks and feels much like the torture stick. Several of the more experienced forum members here advised me to buy 3 of the comfy saddles as I could count on the manufacturer discontinuing it or changing it for the worse.
Good luck in your search, hope you find the answer as quick and painlessly as I did!
Surprisingly the new comfy saddle looks and feels much like the torture stick. Several of the more experienced forum members here advised me to buy 3 of the comfy saddles as I could count on the manufacturer discontinuing it or changing it for the worse.
Good luck in your search, hope you find the answer as quick and painlessly as I did!
#12
Senior Member
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central PA
Posts: 629
Bikes: Cannondale Six5, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR & old Hard Rock
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've got an Alliante carbon as well. These seem to be popular for bigger guys (I'm 6'4 @ 219). Other popular ones seem to be Specialized BG saddles, Brooks & Terry flies. I'd take the advise on getting fit first, then, go demo saddles.
#15
Senior Member
SactoDoug, Try adjusting the nose of your present saddle down just a little and test ride, repeat; stay tuned to what the sit bones feel like. Sliding forward in the saddle means you've tilted it down too far. Shorts with too much padding can be problematic also, as can riding in regular shorts where a seam passes through the middle to the zipper.
Brad
Brad
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Posts: 4,695
Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 305 Post(s)
Liked 2,038 Times
in
604 Posts
A slight change in tilt can have great effects. I have a saddle that I am comfortable enough with, but I tilted up a couple of degrees and after 6 mile I had painful welt. For you weight any saddle should work. You just need to find a comfortable saddle and fine tune the fit.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: La Verne CA
Posts: 5,049
Bikes: Litespeed Liege, Motorola Team Issue Eddy Mercxk, Santana Noventa Tandem, Fisher Supercaliber Mtn. Bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
Selle San Marco Rolls, there is a reason why this saddle is still being bought 30 years after it first came out, comfort.. Save some money and buy the Smooth Top - Steel Railed version.. Here is an extensive review
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...%26BRAND.ID%3D
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...%26BRAND.ID%3D
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Loveland, Ohio
Posts: 153
Bikes: '10 TREK 7.7 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Terry Liberator Y Gel saddle works for me along with a good set of shorts with a comfortable chamois (Pearl Izumi P.R.O.) and +1 on cyclist2000 stated: Watch the tilt.
#21
Senior Member
I like saddles made by Selle SMP and WTB. Long, flat saddles (e.g. almost everything made by Specialized) don't work for me.
#23
Starting over
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1500; 2006 Gary Fisher Marlin; 2011 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 105; 2012 Catrike Trail
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
That may be because there's really no such thing as a "road-specific" saddle. About the only saddle difference you'll find that relates to bike type is a sprung "cruiser" type vs everything else. You might find some differentiation between "racing" and "touring" saddles, but even those are relatively few and occasionally subtle.
Last edited by CraigB; 11-28-10 at 02:19 PM.
#25
No Money and No Sense
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Anderson, MO
Posts: 705
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Posted something similar here and managed to get enough advice to figure out how to shop for a saddle. In summary:
1. Everyone loves Brooks and there is no point in considering any other saddle even if you can't afford it or you rode one and didn't like it. No, really. If you sit on any other saddle you will immediately have severe nerve damage and be permanently disabled.
2. If you don't have a Specialized dealer and their ass-o-meter (real name) in your neighborhood you can get an idea of your seat bone width by sitting on a piece of memory foam while in your riding position. Measure the points left by your butt bones and you'll know how wide the saddle needs to be. (Note: Not all dealers do the seat fitting. You can find out which ones do on their site.)
3. "Touring" saddles have a narrow nose which is easier on your thighs and a wider top which is easier on your butt. Women's saddles are -mostly- wider than men's saddles. There are cut-outs for men and women, but I can't tell that there's much of a difference because both can vary widely in shape depending on the manufacturer.
After piecing together this information I ended up with a cheapo Bell women's saddle. It's harder than my 3-speed's beloved Cloud 9 saddle, but it's a million times better than the ass axe that came stock.
1. Everyone loves Brooks and there is no point in considering any other saddle even if you can't afford it or you rode one and didn't like it. No, really. If you sit on any other saddle you will immediately have severe nerve damage and be permanently disabled.
2. If you don't have a Specialized dealer and their ass-o-meter (real name) in your neighborhood you can get an idea of your seat bone width by sitting on a piece of memory foam while in your riding position. Measure the points left by your butt bones and you'll know how wide the saddle needs to be. (Note: Not all dealers do the seat fitting. You can find out which ones do on their site.)
3. "Touring" saddles have a narrow nose which is easier on your thighs and a wider top which is easier on your butt. Women's saddles are -mostly- wider than men's saddles. There are cut-outs for men and women, but I can't tell that there's much of a difference because both can vary widely in shape depending on the manufacturer.
After piecing together this information I ended up with a cheapo Bell women's saddle. It's harder than my 3-speed's beloved Cloud 9 saddle, but it's a million times better than the ass axe that came stock.