twentysomething

As it says to the left there, I'm a newbie looking to get into cycling. Not only am I a Clydesdale (6'2', 220) but I'm part of the 50+ crowd too.

I've read through the index for Clydesdales and am now concerned about the LBSs I've visited. Not one has mentioned anything about my size or weight. I guess it is all on me to figure out what I need. I could have bought a bike and wondered in a few weeks why the rear wheel spokes busted or the pedals came off.

Anyway, thanks to y'all for this forum and the great advice given (altho my head is spinning at this point).

Neil_B

I think you are overthinking. (That sound you hear is the rest of the forum gasping at the irony of my telling someone they are overthinking things.) Just get on a bike. Ride it like you stole it. Rest. Repeat as needed or desired.

10 Wheels

My bike salesman/mechanic weights 230 lbs.

DoubleTap

I wouldn't be too worried about it. I think we, as enthusiasts here, tend to over-analyze things. For me, discussing all the little details on here is part of the fun, but I wouldn't let concerns over wheels, frame materials, etc. keep me away from riding. When I first began, I didn't know this place existed. I bought a Trek 7.2FX at 345 lbs. and rode the heck out of it commuting to work several days a week. Then I also bought a road bike, and that's when I found this board and began learning more about bikes. Point is, I rode happily for over two years on two bicycles without breaking spokes, bending wheels or really any troubles at all. Only when I began to want to improve my performance did I begin reading here.

That being said, find a good LBS (local bike shop) and use them along with arming yourself with information here. But, don't anguish too much over details related to your size. Heck, you're not that heavy compared to many on here, so most bicycles would suit you fine as long as they're sized correctly. Likely, the spokes won't bust and the pedals won't come off.

Probably the best piece of rank beginner advice I see given here is pointing people to a LBS for a bike instead of a big box store. Luckily, you figured that out for yourself as I did.

twentysomething

But, but, but....true, I am overthinking things. Just amazed at this brave new world.

Still a couple questions....

Aluminum vs steel?
Trek 1.5 vs Cannondale CAAD 8 or Synapse? Are there others to consider?
Do those padded briefs work (as opposed to the shorts or pants)?

It'd be nice if there was one LBS that carried several brands (a Super LBS if you will) instead of having to go to one shop for Trek, another shop for Cannondale, etc). Oh well.....

10 Wheels

Actually brand doesn't matter.

A good fitting bike is a fun bike to ride.
Buying new gives you a warranty for when something breaks or need adjusted.

Both of my bikes are aluminum.

DoubleTap

Aluminum vs. steel? You're not allowed to restart that debate here until you have at least 10,000 posts and have exhausted all search options. Seriously, there's been a lot of debate on this topic, and I think it comes down to personal preference for the ride feel. I've ridden both a little, although I favor aluminum and carbon, and I can't say I feel a lot of difference.

The shorts help a lot, so I'd advise getting some and trying them. You might try the mountain bike shorts if you're nervous about lycra.

Most shops do carry more than one line, often times 3 or 4 brands, so keep looking. My favorite shop here carries Trek, Giant, Gary Fisher, and Surly. They'll also help you order from many specialty manufacturers like Independent Fabrication, Rivendell, etc.

curbtender

Padded shorts help. I think as long as the frame fits, any of style of material will work well. I ride mostly carbon on the road and have an alloy frame for commuting. What kind of biking are you getting into?

chewybrian 

Start with what kind of riding you want to do, and the right bike follows. If you haven't done a lot of riding, then you probably don't know yet. You can get a used mountain bike or touring bike cheap, with 100% resale value. Get some miles, have fun, and figure out what inspires you. Then, it will be easy to figure out the right bike for you, and you won't regret buying it or have to sell it for half what you paid.

After several years of riding, I figured out that rando was my thing. Five years ago, if you showed me a rando rig, I would have scratched my head and wondered why anyone would need a bike like that.

Neil_B

Heck, when I bought my first bike, I said I'd only be riding a few miles in the park on Sundays in good weather. We saw how THAT worked out!

twentysomething

Looking at road bikes. Basic road stuff. Thats all I know. Anything else more specific or specialized is down the road (partner the pun).

jbman100

I had a mountain bike for getting around Ft Bliss when I was stationed there. Brought it with me here and rode it on and off for a year or three. Didn't get serious until I wanted a road bike that I could ride with the wife as she was training for a triathlon and my mountain bike (Big Box store type) was way too heavy. I bought an inexpensive road bike and haven't looked back. Just over 2500 miles last yearwhen I was still a newby. My suggestion is that you scour this site for the type bike you THINK you want, then make a list of what and how you will be riding, scour this site again for the type of bike you THINK you will want for that type riding, make a list of those bikes and then go test ride them.

contango 

Honestly, at 6'2 and 220 you're not particularly heavy so just about any mainstream bike should take your weight with relative ease. Some of the seriously lightweight carbon stuff might not but if you're getting into cycling you're unlikely to be going there.

I bought my bike at 6'4 and more like 280. At the time I was marginally over the recommended maximum rider weight, which was 275, but given I don't haul a lot of stuff with me I figured I was within the rider+cargo weight tolerance, and also that they build a bit of slack into it anyway. If it makes you feel better check the rider weight ratings on the bikes you're looking at, but unless you're looking at some seriously expensive gear I'd be surprised if you find anything that won't take your weight with ease.

jethro56 

My only advice would be to stay away from front suspensions If you do mostly road riding. The spoke question is what the LBS's free tuneup after 100-150 miles should take care of.They should also check cable tension on shifters/brakes. The cables stretch and the wheels seat in. That takes some riding before the componets settle down.

Wogster

At 220lbs, I wouldn't worry, bikes that have low weight limits, in the litigious society that exists now, especially in the USA will have labels and and warnings of that limit all over them. If they don't and there is a failure they could get sued.

cohophysh

The Trek 1.5 is a perfect entry level bike. I personally like the bib shorts over regular but I have both

boy scout 161

My Road Bike is a Trek 1.1. I had several people tell me how an Al frame bike with Al forks would beat me to death. I didn't find that to be the case. So, based my experience with the 1.1, I would say a 1.5 with carbon fiber forks would be a great entry level bike.

zjrog

I'm sorta new, coming back to bikes again. I just had a knee replacement in Nov and looking forward to riding my old(ish) bikes again.

An advantage of steel over aluminum, is when steel breaks, it usually starts to creak and groan progressively worse, giving you a moment or two to slow and get off it. Aluminum tends to just plain break, and usually while climbing out of the saddle. I know this because I broke 2 aluminum and 2 steel frames in 1990 and 91... When I was 215 or so pounds. Bikes today are significantly stronger and I wouldn't hesitate to jump on an aluminum bike today. That and I'm not as strong as I was in 91!

I liked the padded shorts on my roadbike, too many layers of clothing can chafe, then bunch and you get sores... Not that I would wear them again just yet, I frequently wore unpadded shorts for shorter rides. And the beach, and almost anything active. Yes, padded shorts make a difference. But I don't think I'd wear the padded briefs AND the shorts...

LBS' would be better if they carried one of everything. On the otherhand, that might be boring. I enjoy going from shop to shop. Each one is different. Different feel, different crowd, different skills... If you look at it from the standpoint of the salesman, he has to know just a little about lots of product. A shop that carries a few lines, that salesman knows a lot about each and every bike...

Brotherman, I'm 6'3" and currently 290 pounds. Just turned 48, and can hear AARP breathing down my neck. But when I was a monster tearing up bikes and chewing up components, I was 210-215. *IF* I could be that strong again, I doubt I would tear up as much stuff as I did before. And through it all, back then, I had one frame that took all my abuse and kept me on the road. A steel bike... Its so out of date now, not cost effective to do much to it. But, I think it'll make a grand Single Speed machine. Its an old friend that has been patient waiting for me...

exile

What type of riding are you planning? There are different bikes for different purposes. Some more efficient or fun than others.

If you are looking at road bikes, then either one mentioned should be fine. Like others mentioned your weight should not be a problem. Also, if you buy from a good LBS they will usually go the extra mile to accommodate you. Many feel a good relationship with your LBS is equally important as the bike you ride.

Fit is the most important thing when looking at a bike. It makes the experience more enjoyable and your effort more efficient. Basically ride as many bikes as you can and get the one you enjoy riding the most.

As for the Steel vs. Aluminum debate it reminds me of this quote from Armageddon:

Lev Andropov: [annoyed] "Components." "American components, Russian Components, ALL MADE IN TAIWAN!"

rideorglide

Most has been said above, but some of the saddles that come on new MTBs and so on are very tiny a$$-hatchets -- you may want to ask the store to swap out a more suitable saddle for your size (I'm a clyde too).

Stem - may or may not need fitting.

Be prepared to go back in a few weeks of riding for a tune up -- make sure it's complimentary.

skilsaw

Don't expect the bike stores to mention your weight. Something like, "Jeez man, you sure are fat. I have the perfect machine for you. Just look at this industrial strength recumbent trike. It even has a tractor seat for your fat a##" It's not politically correct.

As others have said, think about the style of riding you intend, then choose something appropriate. And have a realistic and manageable price in mind. Don't be surprised if they show you bikes $100 or $200 above that price point.

Don't let choosing a bike become stressful. Find a store that is interested in you and emphasises "fit". Stay happy.

For the record, I'm 6' 2" and 250 lbs. I chose a touring bike.

wvridgerider

Just test ride the bikes at the shop that treats you the best. If the bike doesnt fit dont buy it. Bike fit is the most important issue with bikes. A good pair of shorts is worth their weight in gold, that is why most cyclist wear them. Make sure you start with a level seat also.

cyclist2000

At 220 lbs and 6'-2" you are a clyde but most any bike would work. I am 232 and 6'-3", I have bikes made of carbon, aluminum and steel. I also have wheels with as few as 20 radial spokes. I don't have any problem with any of this gear. My carbon bike has campy record carbon components.

I don't think that you will have any problems with those bikes.

As for padded briefs, I haven't used them but the general opinion on this forum is that the padded brief aren't that good. Get a pair of padded cycling shorts or bibs (bibs are really comfy, since they aren't as tight on the waist).

rdtompki

Don't forget 50 is the new 40! A good LBS will go the extra mile to court a new customer even if you're buying an entry-level bike. The owner/salesperson should want to understand your goals and put you and a candidate bike on a trainer. A riding position that may be very comfortable in 6 months could be really discouraging initially. My wife and I got back into cycling in our 60's and both bought bikes that didn't really fit well. What saved us is that we bought a tandem, but my wife eventually sold her single and bought something else. I still have my single, but if it were my only ride I'd find something else in a heartbeat. I'll second the several above who said "fit is everything". Decades of cycling left to worry about spoke count, BB stiffness, etc.

contango 

No self-respecting salesman would put it quite like that although at the same time if the customer were large enough to need something specific they should raise the issue, albeit more tactfully than above. If the salesman sells a very lightweight bike to someone who sits on it and promptly breaks it, they aren't going to get a lot of recommendations or future business.