Jaytron

Realistically, how often are you guys changing chainrings at the track?

I've read that most warm up on a 48x16 and then train/race on a different gear.

Is centering the chainring ever an issue when doing these changes?

chi-james

I'm sure it happens, but I've never seen anyone changing chainrings at the track. Cogs, yes, chainrings, no.

queerpunk

I change my rings once or twice a night.

My answer depends on a lot of factors, though. My category, my track's race schedule, the weather, and so forth. But I raced up to a cat 2 doing only occasional gear changes, and racing nearly everything (endurance and sprint races) in a 90.

I usually warm up on a 16, and then change to a 15 for racing. 90 or 92 for most endurance events. Bit more for very short (that is, very fast) warm-up races if I'm gunning for a result.

One of the very fast guys at my track said he got tired of changing chanrings and just switches cogs. 15, 14, or 13. But he can turn over a very large gear.

I don't really fuss with centering a ring.

Good tip for making it all easier is to use a bit of tubular glue to glue in the backside bolts to your cranks.

JMR

I change chainrings virtually everytime I am at the track... and certainly if I am racing (as opposed to training).

For example... I ride the kilo on a different gear to a flying 200 and then usually use a couple of different gears for match sprinting and a bigger gear for keirin, but often the change is only a couple of inches and that requires a chainring or chainring and cog swap.

Yuo shouldn't have any issues centering the chainring, the chainring bolts should do that... just put them all in loosely first then tighten them up. It doesn't take long.

JMR

Jaytron

What does the glue on the back bolts do to make swapping easier?

Please forgive my ignorance.

Also, what front chainring are you using when you're describing the minimal rear cog changes?

Nagrom_

Stops the nut from moving when you tighten it.

If you have knurled chainring bolts it's not necessary.

queerpunk

yeah, it's so you don't have to use one of those annoying chainring bolt tools that never seem to engage with any chainring backside bolt. prevents them from falling down all over the place.

re: front ring - i'm not sure what this rider was using. probably a 50.

JMR

When I'm racing, I am almost always on a 14 cog with 49/50/51/52 chainrings... it gives me a good spread of gears that suit me.

YMMV.

JMR

carleton

Expect to change your gearing 2-5 times per training/race session.

Centering it isn't an issue.

You'll get to be fast with it in no time.

Pro tips:

1) Get knurled chainring bolts where the nut seats into the crank spider. Don't worry, it can be removed if you strip it out. This makes gear changes VERY fast.
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=628


2) Get a set of quality ball-head metric allen wrenches. Trust me. TOTALLY worth the expense. I have a set that i've been using since 2009. Use the short end to torque/loosen and the long end to spin on/off. Using 3-way allen wrenches suck at this task.

Only keep the wrenches that fit bolts on your rig with you. Store the rest at home in your tool box.
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-13pc-...p-00946755000P



3) Get a shop-quality lock ring remover and chain whip. You will be chaining cogs more often than mechanics at your local shop (seriously).
I use Hozan pliers and a Park Tool chain whip (originally 3/32 that I modified with a 1/8" chain)



4) At least TWO quality 15mm wrenches. One to keep in your gear bag and one for the trunk of your car (and leave it there) for when you load/unload your bike. They should be 15mm on BOTH the open and closed ends (not 14mm on one side and 15mm on the other).



It's a pain in the butt to be dead tired from training and have to go digging deep in your gear bag for the 15mm to take your wheels off your bike.

Get one where the closed end is flat (not angled) as possible. When you are applying torque to tighten rear wheels, if the angle is really sharp, it will jump off of some nuts that have narrow shoulders (like on Zipp 900 disks). I'd replace those with Dura Ace anyway. Just remember that front and rear nuts have different thread pitches.

Not too long and not too short. My Craftsman is 7" long (heh heh heh). Shorter is not enough torque and longer is too much.

5) OPTIONAL: Get a ratcheting 15mm wrench. This is helpful, too. I lost my favorite one.




I've been using all of the tools listed above for 5 years or more. You'll use them your entire racing career...or until someone doesn't return something As a buddy who owns a high-end wood crafting shop told me when I borrowed something from him a second time during my rookie season, "If you have to borrow a tool more than once, you need your own."

Hida Yanra

listen to Carelton -
just do it.

queerpunk

I use Miche splined cogs, btw, and I love 'em. Obviates the need for a chainwhip.

Taking one step out of the process is really nice.

Jaytron

There needs to be a thread of Carleton's protips.

Thanks so much!

chas58

+1

carleton should write a book...

Jaytron

Hey Carleton,

I tried to go with the Sugino bolts like you suggested, and they were too short to work with Omniums+FSA Pro track ring.

Edit:

Nvm found this

I should've gone Dura Ace. :|

carleton

Omniums have a thick spider.

1) Use the female knurled backs from the single chainring bolt set and seat them in the spider. You may have to use super glue with Omniums. Other crank arms work fine (Shimano, Campy, SRM, Sugino).
2) Go to a store that has MTB parts and get some *steel* double chainring bolts that MTBers use. Use the male part from these bolts. They are longer and will reach through the back of the chainring. This is OK. They won't (shouldn't) touch your chain stay.


This is what I did when I had Omniums:

queerpunk

nice bike. you heard Dave Tiemeyer is retiring?

carleton

Thanks.

Wut?! I didn't hear that he was retiring. He's an awesome guy and master frame builder.

That's my first Tiemeyer. My buddy is now racing that one in ATL. I have another:

Impreza_aL

retiring?!

i need to get one soon.

Pantani98

I need to try and confirm this. I've been waiting with the plans on purchasing one of his track frames. If that's the case I need to push my date up...quick!

queerpunk

It's confirmed, it's soon, and I'm pretty sure he's not taking orders - just selling off stock.

Nagrom_

He isn't doing customs anymore but he has various frames in standard sizing, and I heard this several months ago, so who knows what's left. I'd get in contact real quick if you're interested.

Jaytron

Kind of a silly question, but if the chainring bolts extend out, how do I hold the female side in?

Oh.. glue them before even trying?

Double chainring bolts=8mm?

This is what I need for male? https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=3626

Female- https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=628

Nagrom_

If they're knurled you shouldn't have to hold them at all after they bite a little.

Jaytron

Carleton mentioned that they probably wouldn't bite

carleton

Sorry for the late reply!

If you set the female part in place, when you snug the first chainring on it will seat it. If the hole is too big, then yeah, glue it.

Yes, those are the right parts. You should be able to buy them locally.