Installing cable donuts
#3
SuperGimp
Internal or external cabling?
The donuts that came with my wires have a solid outer rim, no way to get them on without undoing the cable. I imagine there is something out that that you can retrofit but I don't know of anything specific.
The donuts that came with my wires have a solid outer rim, no way to get them on without undoing the cable. I imagine there is something out that that you can retrofit but I don't know of anything specific.
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Thanks for checking!
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Cut and solder the cable (kidding)
or slice half of the donut with a sharp blade so you can open it up and get they cable in. My experience with them is that they just slide all over the place and are pretty well useless.
or slice half of the donut with a sharp blade so you can open it up and get they cable in. My experience with them is that they just slide all over the place and are pretty well useless.
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I just went to an auto-parts store and bought a few feet of the smallest vacuum tubing they stocked, and ran it the full length of the gap between the cable stops on the top tube.
#8
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Shimangolo's suggestion is a good one. I personally use "cable housing lining", which you should be able to get at any good shop for pretty darn cheap. Those little rubber donuts really don't do much.
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Never been a fan of tubes over the bare cable either- I like to use my slotted housing stops to clean my cables.
Scratches happen, I'm over it.
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Mmmm - donuts...
#12
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I used to think these were necessary. I don't think this anymore.
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In my experience, any rear brake cable that does not have a continuous housing running all the way from lever to rear brake, will rattle against the top tube when you hit bumps. Very annoying.
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Wow! That is so interesting. In 30+ year of cycling I have never had rattle from the exposed inner cable slapping the frame. Ever! The only similar problem I ever had was the cable quick disconnects on a Ritchey Breakaway rattling against the frame. Rubber O-rings fixed that up fine.
#18
SuperGimp
I only put them on my rear brake cable... the shift cables are california crossed inside the down tube so if they hit the side I probably have larger issues to worry about.
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In my experience, shift cables are tight enough they never rattle against the tubes, so I've never needed to do anything with them. In contrast, the rear brake cable is quite slack when not applying brakes. On my Litespeed, the rear brake cable jangled like a bell before I slipped the tubing over it.
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I had a CAAD 8 that would rattle the shift cables against the downtube when the cables were crossed. Donuts fixed it.
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#22
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In my experience, shift cables are tight enough they never rattle against the tubes, so I've never needed to do anything with them. In contrast, the rear brake cable is quite slack when not applying brakes. On my Litespeed, the rear brake cable jangled like a bell before I slipped the tubing over it.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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Brand new build with everything working perfectly.
When you have 44cm of unsupported cable running just 3mm from a metal tube, it is going to slap on bumps.
#24
You Know!? For Kids!
You could use a small dab of clear silicone caulk to make a rudimentary cable donut on a cable without rerunning it I would think. Heck, you could even find colored caulk.
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